AndyP

You want to put it up near the other boost sensor somewhere. Mine is an Blitz so it's not exactly the same.

You can get the turbos recon'd for a few hundred, but it's the removal and fitting that cost. Expect £600+ for that.

Well done.

LOL - that'd get you a 1 bed flat in Harlow with no parking !

So if we let Wales win everytime, then after a while we will have found a way to eliminate them from the gene pool (and they should gain an entry in the Darwin Awards). :D

Top work, I'm dead impressed.

Oh, you deluded people .... :rolleyes: !

You are likely to get more smoking than normal(!). Aim to keep the oil at approx the 3/4 mark on the dipstick.

http://www.theregister.co.uk/2005/02/04/msn_messenger_bropia_worm/

Maybe, just maybe ...

If you have a problem with the AFM then the ECU goes into a get-you-home type mode and doesn't let the car rev over 2500 etc. So, first you need to get that sorted, then start looking for less obvious stuff if you still have problems.

Think the email addy was jainestone or something like that. Not the right one ? Check your spam filter.

OK, have sent you an automated email password reminder. Let me know if you need anything else.

Just what I was looking for - thanks. I seem to remember my concern at the time being that the filters were rated for less power than the engine produced, and if you had two filters you only multiplied it by 1.5 or something like that, still leaving me short of the massive (sic) 370bhp, or whatever it is that I should have. And if it smokes on the overrun, then yes, it's quite likely that the valve seals are wearing, but it could be other stuff too. Cheers Andy

I also have grotty paper filters on mine and want to change them. What K&N part number did you get ? I did a bit of research and couldn't work out which one would be the best fit.

Tell me your (old) user name and we'll sort it out for you.

The front light are driving lights rather than fog lights but I suppose you could use them as fogs (yellow bulbs perhaps?). I think most people have a separate switch somewhere - don't forget it has to light up too.

Yes, it does, because it just divides the signal from the speed sensor by 5/8ths (or something very close to that). But it is a compromise and there's no substitute for doing the job properly.

As with all the others Tim, was very sorry to hear about this.

Repeat after me - AOL are Evil, AOL are Evil ..... I use W20, but that's because my choice is kinda limited to, er, W20. However, on the upside I have a wireless 512Kb SDSL connection with no upward rate limiting !

One possibility is the speed sensor on the gearbox, if that is dead the speedo will be dead and the power steering will be very heavy. If it's just the speedo dead then take the instrument cluster out and look for broken wires, loose plugs and broken tracks on the circuit board.

Mine used to have a convertor but I changed to a Uk speedo cluste instead. I think it's possible to convert a jap speedo to UK just by changing a resistor or two, then of course you need to modify the ECU as well to remove the speed limiter.

But a cylinder repair kit (piston) is only about £45

Online manual, matey peeps ! http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=el&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=89&design=default&total=133 http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/el/089.gif

Well after some thought, a lot of searching and a bit of research in the manual, I reckon it could be the Y/B. Take a look :- http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/eccsdiag/003.gif