AndyP

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Yup - good decision ! Might be worth changing that chip afterwards too ...

Guess I don't pay enough attention to the day-to-day chatter on here ....

So we're establishing that :- a) You're 'coming out' on the forum b) You're an exhibitionist c) You're a teaser

You first question: In theory yes, but that will depend on whether you have matching series I or II clocks. You may need to take the UK clocks out of the case and fit them in the Jap clocks case - a 5 minute job. Second question: Dunno.

Yeah, took a couple yesterday afternoon. This car is filthy dirty -even by my standards ! Will post them later.

LOL, you've even left it too late to do online now - like me !

Driving up north followed a day or so later by down to the SW, in both cases to 'dry' houses, so it's a non-alcoholic Xmas for me :(

I'm sure that the plugs were specifically designed for the Z32 engine, so in theory that's what should be fitted. On the other hand. if what you've got is the right spec and works then why bother changing them. They probably just won't last as long as the highly expensive NGK originals. I had a set of expensive Iridiums and they only lasted about 10K, went back to pukka NGK after that.

Seems that my caliper install isn't as simple as I'd first hoped - could be a job for Spring, by the time I get around to it ...

On paper, handling yes, power no - at least not a mod'ed one. But like I said, these are not the right conditions for testing, especially someone elses car ! It's one of the fairly rare UK spec models too, so breaking it could prove expensive ...

Don't see why it wouldn't pass. I always made up my own brake pipes when building bikes, this stuff is good enough for aircraft ! I used to buy mine from Harris Performance but I reckon most people in the trade could get hold of it. Smithy probably. You can bet it's more expensive than standard copper tube though - especially the fittings ...

I'd often wondered why people talk about replacing the copper pipes. Is there any reason why they shouldn't be replaced with a few metres of Aeroquip braided hosing ?

Yep, just been for a quick whizz out the village and back. Not exactly ideal for testing this kind of thing at the moment, what with it being cold, dark, wet and foggy etc. However, steering is very direct, very flat response off tickover and quite easy to stall (oops), nice midrange power once rolling though - and that's about it. Does seem kinda weird with all the engine noise behind you though ...

A mate of mine has just borrowed my Xantia estate for a trip to Macclesfield to collect some furniture ... and left me his NSX. Shame I have to give it back by tomorrow lunchtime. :D

Yeah, ditch the speedo converter and see how it goes.

That's a real shame. Looks like it could be an excuse for a new project car though. Gotta be positive about these things ...

Er ... no !

I was looking at a TT at the weekend that, for reasons known only to someone else, had the speed signal to the ECU disconnected and the steering seemed to be permanently light. This surprised me as I expected it to be heavy, but there you go. Needless to say, with the signal connected back up then everything worked normally.

The speed sensor signal goes first to the speedo and then on to the ECU. If the signal to the ECU is interrupted then steering will be odd and HICAS will be confused (I think) and the autobox changes may also be affected (perhaps) . The speed delimiter, or to be correct, speed converter changes the km/h signal to mph and hence fools the ECU into thinking 180mph = 180km/h (112mph).

An a/f controller will only alter the fuelling, you would usually need to adjust the ignition timing too. So the answer is yes, you should need to get it chipped too.

Should do. You will then need the ECU chipped to remove the speed limiter.

Wired into the back of the speedo somewhere. You'll have to remove it and follow the wires to whereever they mounted he little box - about the size of a matchbox usually.

More likely to be a connection to the convertor box broken. I assume your speedo still works.

Sounds like the filter is blocked to me. Stop the engine and the crud blocking it falls back down to the bottom again. Changing the oil and cleaning the filter may work for a while, but it's usually parts of the clutch plates that cause the blockage - this is a bad thing !