Tudor...

Hi. I was wondering if a series 1 TT instrument cluster can be replaced with a series 2 TT Cluster, are the plugs/sockets the same? Thanks, Tudor.

Thanks for all the effort mate! I had looked at the prices new, but then there's shipping and tax etc. and what people are willing to pay. I guess I'll just bung the lot on at some point, at a price I think is fair (common sense). Cheers again...

Can't remember the colours, but your converter intercepts the signal, it goes through the converter, i.e. in and out, so the signal coming to your speedo from the speed sensor on the gearbox goes into the the converter, then out and to your speedo altered. It intercepts and alters it before the speedo itself. Red/black are positive and negative. Mine (when I bought her) would drop off at higher speeds and the speedo would give up, as the positive was wired straight to the cluster and it didn't have enough juice (common problem), so I think I took the switched positive from the radio with more juice to the converter, worked great since. Hope that helps somewhat.

Hi all, I have a few nice things I may be selling in the near future, but I'm wondering what I can ask for them, I'm finding it hard to get comparisons from research. Any help is much appreciated! I have the Z1 GT600R turbo kit, only covered around 3K and were taken of the car a few years ago with no issues and have been stored since. I was thinking of having them rebuilt before selling, so I can sell them signed off as spot on. Any ideas what the kit is worth in current condition, and is it worth me having them fettled first? I also have the Z1 Jecs 550cc full injector kit, with a DTA 550 chip to go with, new and never been fitted on an engine (but they are currently fitted to a fuel rail), and have also been stored for a few years, I was planning to have them checked and signed off first. Same question applies really. Also, I have the Z1 2.5" intercooler piping kit to go with, with the extra 2 pipes, a big Ford F150 MAF and dual cone filters, all brand new never fitted. I'm just wondering what they might be worth before I decide to bite the bullet!... Cheers in advance! Tudor.

I got a sill repair panel off him the other day mike@mjpauto.com

Hi folks. Does anyone have a nearside projector lens reflector floating about? Not the actual projector lens bit, just the chromed reflector. Cheers, Tudor.

Hi peeps, any I.T folk out there? My Dad is on Virgin home broadband (50meg) and after setting his new multiple camera home CCTV kit up, he needs a static IP address for remote access to the cameras/DVR. Virgin do not do a static IP address for a home broadband account, how can he get one? What are the options? He doesn't mind paying a 'small' fee for one. I have set up stuff in the router settings to allocate things (can't remember the exact stuff I did, few weeks ago, but it still changes, DNS and all that). I can gain access to the first camera I set up, but by the time I've done anything else stuff has changed again and none of the cameras work. Repeat... Cheers! Tudor...

Working MAF for sale, £80 plus delivery (peanuts, so call it £83 all in, providing you don't live in Australia :-) ... Due to work I can't get on here much, so feel free to text on 07737 454 179 Cheers, Tudor...

Or not, phone is having a seizure :hammer:

I've got a crank pulley in great condition from what I remember, I'll have a look now. PM us if you're still after one mate. - - - Updated - - - Aah crapper, subs just ran out :-( Disregard that mate.

Undo the bleed nipple and they should just slowly push in with a suitable implement (away from the dust seal so's not to tear or pinch it). Keep pressure on the piston then nip up the nipple (ooh err missus), should only need minimal bleeding.

Does anyone know the block freeze plugs size? Cheers, Tudor.

Apexi "Power Intake" cone filter (induction kit). Straight bolt on filter, also comes with seal plate. In very good condition, very very slight marking to a tiny bit of the mesh (see pics) but it's practically nothing, just being honest. £40 delivered...

It's 20 gauge...

You could get round that by fitting some in the wing mirrors. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Hey all, I haven't really been able to do much since posting my supposedly epic build thread, I've been pretty unwell, but I'm on the mend now and ready to crack back on. But, in the bits I have done, I have found more rust than I expected. I've got the usual front/back sill issues, although not incredibly bad it needs sorting, but I also have the usual turret/wing mount rust under the seam sealant. I'm going to repair this using my own fabrications, but what gauge is the steel? Mostly I'll first be doing the turret part, I know the actual turret is a thicker gauge, but I just need to know the gauge of the rest, basically the wheel arch etc. Then, hopefully I can crack back on and get something done! I'd measure it my self but I'm at work, didn't think before I left, I might try and get some metal on my way home. Thanks, Tudor.

Once you've removed the the nose panel, spray some penetrating fluid on the hose clamps either end of the recirc and the recirc bracket bolts and let soak for a while, as access is limited and they will most likely put up a fight, mine did. Use a socket if possible on the hose clamp, but they may just twist and mangle if seized. Fun fun fun. Other than access, iirc it's just the hose clamps, recirc bolts and cut knuckles. This may be of some help.... http://tech.aus300zx.com/bov/bov.htm Tudor...

Yeah it does, cheers Damo.

Haha, it is actually a bottle of Becks Blue alcohol free :( I'll be tackling the sub frame etc. tomorrow hopefully, temporarily fit it when finished so she's rolling, get her out of the garage and get the bay pressure washered before final prep and degrease, and also for a good close up inspection in bright daylight. I've got all the brackets etc. ready for prep too, need to delete the air con evaporator, replace heater matrix (doesn't leak), remove the main ECU loom (only about 500 miles old, but needs cleaning), and on and on! The dash has been wrestled with many times before I got her, most mounts broken, I'll be on the look out for a great nick dash next month, if one exists, if not I'll repair it. I don't want a single creak or rattle, that's the plan anyway... I'll post when I can, but I'm also taking pictures of every part of the car in various stages of taken-to-bitsness, so I'll knock up a photobucket link, will be many pics of many things.. I'll also be asking many questions, and hopefully answering a few too... Tudor.

And also, has anyone removed their battery tray before, I need to, any tips? Cheers, Tudor.

Hello all, I haven't really contributed much on here for a while, life has been crazy, so the Zed has been sat in a house garage for a long while, engine-less and dilapidated. But now things are steadying out a bit, work has commenced, well, on the body anyways. Before I waffle on, and this thread might need to be moved, oops, but what is the easiest way to fully degrease and prep a Z32 engine bay? Any tips? Many nooks and crannies... I took her off the road (about 2, or 3 years ago, it's been that long I really can't remember) due to an engine tap/knock that I couldn't quite definitavely diagnose, but it wasn't healthy. Plus, I had notice a few small rust bubbles in the usual places. I removed the engine, stripped it, bought a GT600R kit, Jecs 555's, and many other associated bits, but you get the idea of what I was after. Life changed, and the stripped engine has remained untouched in my bedroom (that's how I roll :) ). But work has now just recommenced, as often as I can and as much as I can afford. Engine is on hold for the moment, but I've cracked on with the body. I'm meticulously working from the front to back, and anything and everything will be cleaned, protected, modernised, replaced etc. I've started on the engine bay, I've only taken reference pictures really, as there's a lot to refit, but I will start to take progress pictures too. Lots, and lots to do. Not done that much really but I only started a few days ago. After stripping, before a clean... After a clean... The photos are bobbins, and I'm using my phone for this and it is getting on my wick, but I'll take plenty as I'm doing her (ahem). I've got my front subframe, suspension and an NA rear end at my workshop degreased, almost ready to be painted and a few bushes replaced. I'll keep updating this whenever I get chance, and there is everything to do, so maybe my photos, wins and cock ups could be of some help for others. Oh, and she's a '92 JDM TT, and I love her, lots...

Has anyone got a new set of steering rack bushes floating around? Not really fussed whether OEM or poly. Cheers, Tudor.

If you find you need a replacement coolant temp sensor, get it from Mike at MJP Easterm Auto, he's in the traders section. Cheaper than the dealers.

I think it may be that the angle of the main beam is much higher than the dip, they both use the same wattage bulbs, but the dip 'dips', and the main beam is aimed almost straight. So it will appear brighter to you, but if you kneel down, you may find the dips become much brighter. Maybe.

Yeah, I've done a lot of research, it's just I've got a few (rear subframe, couple of arms, diff) that need replacing, but I would also like her to be as comfortable as possible, but also handle as well as she can, handling being the final preference though. And whilst the subframes are off. Or would it be a better idea to replace the ones that need replacing, and replace the rest as and when they fail? I would love to avoid a sh1tty ride for no gain... Anywhere in the uk that do the master kit? Cheers. Tude.