markzx

Do yourself a favour and get a PWR quaud core Rad and stick with the standard thermostate and you will never have high temp probs again unless u have timing issuse. Koyo would proberly do the job but if you still have your air con and want to keep it. The PWR will nail the problem regardless how hard you drive it.

Is it the carbon Alloy clutch or the earlier type with the treated friction plates. Had both and the earlier type do need a little abuse every so often to clean them up otherwise they feel like they are starting to slip. Also had O.S. Giken twin plate. They all jingle a little when foot on clutch. The Exedy none cabon carbon clutches seem to last longer than the OS Giken plates, but cost about £450 for the new friction plates when it come to replace them. Carbon Carbon seem to last a little longer, but still cost about £700 when the plate need replacing. unless its monster power they should last a few years anyway or if sub 450 RWHP you could replace with a RPS street max and flywheel for what you will be able to get for you part use Exedy Twin plate

Hi buddy. I'm not subcribed anymore so I can't respond to items you are looking to sell. Which seems a bit stupid as it is limiting your potenial buyers. Anyway give me a bell on 07546619201 cheers buddy

as above

Sorry Mark you know the rules

Yes the car was built as a fast road car and not a drag strip wonder. I spent a lot of time, 3 engine disaters to and a lot of research to build a torquey quick car. Hope John has the time to sort it now he's finished his V8 beasty (sounds fantastic by the way John) Good luck with it Danny. I'm so glad it went to a like minded person

Correct Dave I forgot about them.:slap: So forget what I said You need the TT sump :xxx: :rofl::rofl:

Correct the NA has no oil cooler. If your going to run higher boost or uprated turbos I'd stick with the NA sump and get either a Mocal or a Pace remote filter set up with a temp regulator to a cooler as i already stated. The Standard TT cooler isn't up to much and if its a Jspec car its even worse. The hole set up will cost about £350 including 22mm braided oil feeds from Mocal or Pace

What set up you got ie bigger tubs etc. Or what are you planning.

TT sump has a oil presure regulated oil feed and return for the oil cooler. Its only a 10 mm feed so if your thinking of uping the power of a tt you be better to use the NA sump and go for a remote filter take of with an in line regulater to feed a 180 X 15 row Mocal oil cooler all on 22mm feeds. See spec on my rides for blue TT

I used a good NA box on my Blue TT. I swapped the bell housings over from TT box as the mail bearing was noisy. My blue car was producing about 500 bhp and no problems and several thousand miles done befor I so;d it. Danny who bought my car has just had it dino'd at 409 RWBHP and its still on it's running in chip.

Cool, way to go. Do check the plugs though. the right grade does make a big difference to the way it responds. Biggest improvement in responce though is defo lightened under pully and lightened flywheel. Then get some 2 fast 2 cool headers of flee bay and you'll have a very quick car. Oh yes a chip off John Dixon as well.

Clean the filtter or replace if standard and remove the MAF and give it a good clean with break disc cleaner. The do the throttle bodies. If neither solve the problem then get the TPS checked and reset.. Also on thing that I have found on both NA's I've had is that the UK Spec TT pugs where in the car and they are too cool. Changing them does make a noticable difference. Also just give all the hoses and intake pipes a once over to ensure you have no leaks

R33 GTR Breaks use the same bolts as standard z32 calipers from what I recall. which is why they are the favoutite choice

Thats not too bad as Danny is still running it on the running in chip. The car desperately needs mapping on the rolling Road. Apparently at night its you can see 6ft long flames coming out the Exhaust when you boot it. So if he gets it mapped all that waisted fuel would be propeling him with a bit more oomph lol

Stu you still got HICAS:shock: Looking good though buddy. Will say this thought. You are selling at the wrong time and no matter how much work you put in it will only fetch the same amount I'm sorry to say. But good luck with the sale. You'll have a little cry like I did when its gone. It's like loosing a troublesome child. It's given you pain and joy and cost you loads. It's got your DNA and pride bestowed to it and you love it like a child but not so deeply.

Right bits in boot will be posted on lunch break

Redline MT 90 will hide it and prolone the life of the box. It does make gear shifts very stiff and notchy for the first few miles until oil gets warm. but slick as snot once warmed up

Is this Gregs old car with the strosek rear bumper and single exit exhaust?

I'll PM you my number and we can arrange to meet up and exchange sir.

My opinion is irrelevent if you enjoy it and thats whats inportant, but is their any chance of a shampoo and cut when you up these parts :rofl::rofl:

Hi Wozzer If I knew where I was going to be etc then I say put me down for it but as i don't i can only say if I can make it I'll meet up with you guys on rout somewhere and sort out accomodation at the time. + if where OK I'd be heading Nurburgring way at some stage. Well it would be rude not to. You know what i mean Wozzer once that place is in your blood it just leeps calling you back. Proberbly weather too bad but if it's nice I'm gone.

Yep I think tis is th easiest way. + I damaged the Center bearing housing on one of my SWBs doing it with the prop attached to the diff. Just the weight of the prop itself dropping on the deck while fannying about to get a proper hold of the box when trying to line the output shaft splines.

I know you wont have them polished John but they would look spectacular if they were. Can't tell from the pic's as you don't get a good angle on the collectors, but what bore exhaust are you having? Just trying to imagine how mental this thing is going to sound.

I think it is wiser to remove the prop completely and not split it. So I'd undo the bolts on the diff flang and the bolts on the bearing carrier and slide the prop our of the box. That way the prop will suffer no chance of damage or balance issuse