nickC

Double Din being used for stereo. I'm not bothered about having it visible but not sure about usage and how often and how quickly I'd need to access controls. Never been a problem with boost jets.

Yeh I've seen pics of it there and it does look good, but I do like my clock …

I've been running boost jets for the last 10 years without problems but have finally decided to go upmarket and fit a boost controller. Being the tight arse that I am I've just won a Greddy Profec B II on EBay for silly money. (Control unit only, no other bits yet). :) I'm having a bit of a dilemma on where to put it. I know the neatest place seems to be where the clock is but my clock still works and I quite like it there. Was thinking of maybe in the glovebox or even in the storage tray under armrest. Having never used a boost controller before I'm not sure how practical it will be having it out of sight/reach. Where do peeps have theirs. All ideas & advice appreciated. Nick

That makes sense. Really wouldn't want to have to pull the plenum a third time. Thanks for the reply.

Hi, I've had to pull the plenum for a second time because I stupidly missed a hidden hose. To get to it I had to remove the hard pipe that the heater hose goes in to. It's the one with two 10mm bolts by the EGR. The question is do I need any sealant between the pipes when refitting. There is no gasket and didn't seem to be any sealant residue there. Cheers

After almost two years off the road I took the old girl in for an MOT today. I had done loads different bits to it so wasn't really expecting too much but she passed with no advisory's. Couldn't believe it, I was actually thinking of breaking her about a year ago. To say I'm chuffed would be an understatement! Now I'm gonna treat her to a new stereo and save for a respray. Happy Days!

If you have an import & one or two of the brake lights have been converted to rear fogs then yes.

Mine has always done that. Thought it was just bad wiring!

Cheers for the info. I better start looking about for a working used motor then.

Yep they work fine on all settings. It's only when I try and turn them off that they won't park properly 1st time.

Morning All. Just a few little jobs to go before MOT. Not an MOT issue but it's been annoying me for years. (Just searched and found an old post of mine from 2003 about it!) When I turn the wipers off, either from intermittent or main wipe they park at random places across screen. There seems to be no pattern to where they stop and usually take three or four attempts to park them properly. Help, It's driving me crazy! :)

Just as an update I have now sorted the problem. After searching came across this thread with similar issues http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?162672-Electrical-issue&highlight=fuse+box+removal So I took out the fusebox, changed the relay & job done :) Sounds easy but anyone who has done it will know that in reality it was grazed elbows, sore back and neck, bending like a bloody contortionist in a tiny space! Stupid place for a fusebox. Also my fusebox and surrounding area was dry with no corrosion on relay so I'm guessing it had just given up the ghost . By the way, info for anyone else attempting this. All the fusebox plugs/connectors are different and can only go in one place EXCEPT two blue ones. One is on the back and one on the front of the board. They do fit in each others slot. It took me 4 fuses and a disassembly to find out:hammer:

Cheers for that. I'm probably not going to get to look at it until later in the week now. Will let you know how it pans out.

Just been back for another look ;). When I switched on ignition power had come back to the pod, clock etc. Then almost immediately went back out again. Pretty sure it's not a fuse. 99%

Aw crap! Thanks for that. Definitely not looking good for mot this week then. Is there anyway of testing it? Just seems to be one new job after another. Starting to wonder if it's worth all this grief.

Actually when I say lost all power I've still got instrument lighting. Weird?

Hi, I'm finally getting around to putting the car back on the road after a couple of years off. I think I've sorted the engine water leak problem, sorted brakes and all the other annoying jobs needed for MOT. I was just adjusting the washer jets when I lost all power to the left hand pod! So no wipers, washers or AC controls. Also the clock has gone and the power fold for the door mirrors. I had a quick look at the fuses but couldn't find any problems. Am guessing it may be a relay although I find it hard to believe that one relay can control all that! Any advice appreciated. Not looking hopeful for an MOT this week now. :(

If it's fog lights you meant not 100% sure on colour. Think it's green/red. However I'm pretty certain it's the centre one of the three, cos I've just done my side lights and they were the outer two. Nick

No problem. Was is the yellow bit that swung it ;)

Just for something different I put in an ABX AGM battery about 3 1/2 years ago. It's a dry cell (or absorbed glass mat, AGM) type. It cost £99 & came with a 5 year warranty! I had the car off the road for well over a year with the battery still connected so obviously was completely dead when I tried to start it. I thought I'd better try and charge it before I took it back under warranty, so stuck a battery optimizer on it. I didn't hold out much hope as it was registering 2.5 volts when I started:sad: It took about a week but the bloody thing charged fully! Couldn't believe it and it's still holding it's charge after a couple of weeks of sitting on my drive unused! I'm rather impressed. Here are a couple of links. http://www.performancebatteries.co.uk/product/AX+D26L/ http://www.dcpower.co.nz/abx-agm-axd26r-p-211.html Oh and it's yellow! :)

Cheers Paul, I'll get some of that ordered.

Crap, hope not, it's a Koyo rad. Hoping a reverse flush will sort it.

Cheers for that Jimmer. There's hope for the old girl yet!

Hi, After a major overheat from turbo water pipe last year I've been trying to confirm the head gasket has gone before I pull the engine. The engine runs well (on drive as on sorn), gets up to temperature and doesn't overheat. However there is a lot of dirty crud in water (brown deposits, almost rusty looking that float to neck of rad!) I've tried a block test but that was not conclusive, even though I dropped the water level considerable it kept sucking up coolant after 4 or 5 pumps of bulb. Stayed blue until then. I've just done a hot compression test and got the following readings: TT Manual. 1. 166 2. 159 3. 158 4. 160 5. 165 6. 160 I'm not sure what to do next. I've tried flushing coolant by trickle method with hose. Am guessing I should take rad out and reverse flush it and pull thermostat to flush block properly. Any advice really appreciated.

Thanks for the replies folks. It's interesting to get views from both sides, the do's & dont's :) It's very hard to decide. I've been the only owner of my car in the UK for the last 10 years so I know that the engine has been well looked after, since I had it anyway. The down side was the way it overheated. My wife was driving, hadn't noticed the temp increasing on either of the two gauges :cursing: and drove it on a dual carriageway for about 5 miles. When she got home (just off dual carriageway) steam was escaping from several places (including my ears when I saw it!) I am worried about the long term damage that may have been done although the car starts and runs pretty smoothly. I suppose the best way would be to pull the engine get the heads checked & go from there. I think it may be fair while yet before the old girl sees the road again. On the plus side now that I'm resigned to pulling the engine I'm looking forward to clearing up loads of the crap & clutter from the engine bay:)