vern936

Anyone?? :confused: Also, my PTU seems to get really hot - is this meant to happen? Thanks, James

I've been slowly working through some jobs that need doing on the z lately and whilst trying to move the PTU onto the top of the nearside strut I thought I'd make a tidy job of it and get rid of some of the excess wire. When I stripped some of the loom back I was surprised to find it held together with bits of tape. I was also surprised to find a brown wire joined to one of the black wires from the 7 pin PTU connector. What is this brown wire for? And is it meant to be joined to the PTU wire? I'd have thought the PTU wires are so important that they're meant to be solely for the ignition circuit. Is this join and all of the loom being taped a sign that the loom as been messed around with? Or did Nissan make them like this? :confused: Onto the next job....I've bought some new rear droplinks (just standard ones not adjustable) with energy suspension bushes and I can't work out if there's meant to be a set way to put the bushes onto the droplink as one side is flat and one side is rounded and one set of bushes has a small recess in the middle and one set has a bit sticking out. Any advice on this? Finally.....trying to replace disks and pads all round I've broken the pad retaining clip on the front nearside. Anyone got one of these lying around they could send me? :) Thanks in advance, James

Search HICAS ;)

I have a Clio mk1 runaround at the moment that I think I might treat to some new wheels as it needs 4 new tyres and I think the originals on it look absolutely rubbish! They look like wheel trims! Clicky! Has anyone get any recommendations of wheels/sizes that look good? It's only a clio so I don't want to spend too much just something that will update it a bit and make it a bit more attractive if I want to sell it :) Cheers, James

There are 2 styles of rim - flat and rolled - but I think the centres are the same size - not 100% sure though. I don't really know much about the wheels to be honest other than they were used on some special Saleens like the SA-10 and made by Hinodex in Japan.

I agree with zx-eyes it does sound like the cat overheat light your describing! On my jap spec the light with your description is the cat overheat light and the bulb warning light is a red light showing 'LIGHT' :)

I'm sure there are caps available to fit but I quite like the original centre cap :cool: and couldn't find them anywhere! If you ever want to change to a set of custom centre caps - drop me a PM and I'll take the originals off your hands :D

I have a set on mine as well. Do you both have all the centre caps for yours? I only have 1 of 4 and I'm gutted as I love the wheels but it ruins them without the centre caps :cry:

Is it definately the fan itself that has packed up? Check the connections. Also - what has your mechanic wired it into? Is it fused? If so check the fuse. Hope this helps, James

Not quite sure what that has to do with the HICAS system though!! Just what happens with lots of power through the rear wheels?? ;) I'm sure someone will be along soon to correct me :D lol

Agreed - which I was why I don't wanna chuck money at it upgrading brakes etc while times are hard and I'm convinced that some other bits will go wrong when it starts being used again ;) Cheers, James

After finding out I was wayyy wrong about the price of powertrix drop links (they're actually £112!!!!) I've seen these on the Zcentre website: http://www.zcentre.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_28_59&products_id=316 Are they what I need? The title sounds right but the picture looks wrong lol. If not - does anyone by any chance have any good used drop links? Same for brake discs all round? The reason I'm trying to save money at the moment is because the car hasn't been used for a while and I'm convinced then when I start driving it I'm going to find other things wrong with it so I just want to get it to pass it's MOT as cheap as possible for now so I can use it for a bit and find out if the car is still OK. I intend to upgrade everything at a later date anyway :) Hope someone can help! Cheers, James

I'd say the RAM is definately the weak point of that spec closely followed by the HDD. The processor should still allow things to be reasonably quick running XP. http://www.crucial.com/ helps you work out a recommended RAM upgrade ;) I'd leave the processor alone and upgrade the RAM and HDD. Should be easy to do and quite cheap :)

Cheers mate. Sorted out some nearly new checked part worn tyres at £30 a corner and a pair of powertrix rear drop links i think is around £30? I just need to find some affordable brakes now. :headvswal Cheers, James

Had the zed MOTd today after 2 years off the road and was advised it needs new discs and pads all round, 2 front tyres but the back are right on the limit and a pair of rear droplinks. I've been looking at getting the Powertrix droplinks from DTA so I think I've made the decision with them and I'm going to try and get some part-worns for the tyres - I'm just after recommendations for discs and pads all round. What do you think? Are the powertrix droplinks well recommended? Cheers, James

So is the NC35 only different from the NC23 in it's looks? I thought the RVF was supposed to be more of a pure sports bike where as the Fireblade was more of a cross being mostly sportsbike with compromises for being comfortable on long distances. Cheers

The nc23 I've seen is a 1989 on a G plate - one of the later ones. I think the RVF will be too sporty for what I need. I'm after a good all rounder really. While I prefer the looks of the RVF I need something that feels sporty when you want to give it a thrashing but is comfortable enough on long distance rides for myself and two up. I've heard nothing but praise for Honda's build quality and the reliability of their bikes that's one of the reasons I'm looking at Honda's. Cheers

Anyone got any experience of the above? I've been thinking about getting a 'babyblade' for some time now after I recently sold my Ninja. I was hoping to get the later NC29 but I've seen a NC23 advertised for quite a reasonable price and the seller lives quite close to me. I'm after advice about reliablity, parts availabilty (cause they're grey imports), handling etc Cheers, James

Bump - anyone any ideas on this problem? Spent a few hours today messing round with this problem and still can't work it out. I'll give it another go tomorrow to get it working properly and then I'll just have to bodge the rear fog to pass the MOT and sort the front fogs after :) Cheers.

I'd agree with Legrath. Just sounds like the usual increased engine breaking you get when the engine is cold.

That's right mate. Front fogs as standard with an aftermarket rear fog in the right hand reverse lights with a switch mounted on top of the right hand switch pod. None of the fogs are working at the moment :) Cheers.

Anyone think that I could have somehow blown the diode? And does anyone know where the diode is? The circuit diagram shows a set of diodes for headlights, fog lights etc. Cheers.

Another update - removed the relay and linked the pins myself and the fogs come on. Tested the relay across the battery and it clicks. Both relay coil pins in the car loom have continuity with the chassis. I'd definately say I've got a problem with whatever supplies the battery positive to the switch - but unfortunately I don't know what that is. Any ideas? Cheers.

Just an update - taken the switch pod off and tested the fog light pins in the multi plug and I haven't got any power at any of them which means (assuming I'm actually testing the right pins) that I must have blown a fuse somewhere - would you all agree with this and have any idea which fuse I should be checking? I'm trying to check them all at the moment but it's difficult in the dark lol. Cheers.

I'm checking them for continuity with a multi-meter to be on the safe side :D I'm starting to suspect the relay now though to be honest. Cheers.