vern936

Glad to hear you got her going mate. Are you saying it fires up with a 0.04V feed to the PTU? If this is the case then your PTU is obviously magical and can generate it's own feed lol :p Regards, Vern

I just usually rest the plug on the plenum and get someone to crank while I watch for a spark - either way will work. Checking for a spark is definately the way forward :) Regards, Vern

What I'd do at this point is wire it up directly in the car and try to start it to make it 100% definate that it's a fuel pump wiring issue you've got. Also after having checked for a feed to the fuel pump check that the -ve side has continuity with the chassis to check it's earthing properly :) Regards, Vern

Sorry mate, just noticed the first post of the thread says you've swapped the fuel pump control unit. Like I said though - I'd try wiring up the fuel pump directly and seeing what happens then :) Regards, Vern

As BIGSSS said, take it for a good run to give everything a good clean out and see what happens :) Chances are it'll sort itself out. Regards, Vern

Just been looking at the circuit diagram and noticed that after the fuel pump relay there is a "Fuel Pump Control Unit". It looks like the fuel pump might get its +ve feed from the fuel pump relay but it completes the circuit through the fuel pump control unit. Do you have access to a circuit diagram for the zed so you can have a look yourself? Also, what method did you use to test the fuel pump? If you used a spare battery, or even if you have a spare battery, just wire the pump up to that whilst it's in the car, crank it over and see if it fires up :) The reason I say about the spare battery is cause you'd have to have a lot of wire to reach from the zeds battery to the fuel pump lol. Regards, Vern

That pic came out bigger than I expected lol. Well you can definately see the wires!!! :rofl: Regards, Vern

I've managed to get a pic where you can actually see the cables to check. In the pic the ECU had it's front on the floor. I'd unscrewed it and pulled the top of it to the floor (thought I'd tell you this to help you locate the wires more easily). The PTU wires are the 9th, 10th and 11th "section" from the top with the other 3 PTU wires underneath them. The wire colours on the top layer are blue and orange, blue and white, and blue and black. Testing any of them should give you a 3~5 volt reading. There's not really any need to check all 6 outputs because the chances are if one has output, they all do and it's just a break in the wiring loom stopping the signal getting to the PTU. Keep us updated! Hope this helps, Vern

As BIGSSS said - looks like you have the big wiring issue I said was a possibility. The next step is to check for a voltage at the ECU for output to the PTU. I'll try and post a picture ASAP but the wires you're looking for are the 6 blue wires that are about a third of the way down from the top with the ECU connector on the right (I think). I'll pull the floorboard and ECU in mine and see if I can get a decent piccy for you to show you the wires you're looking for but it might have to wait till tomorrow cause I doubt my camera will take a decent photo now. You need to get your multimeter and put the probe pointing into the ECU in one of the holes for the blue PTU wires. With the negative probe at any of the surrounding metal to earth it this will check if the ECU is giving a voltage out and it simply isn't getting to the PTU or whether the ECU is not giving out a signal. Good luck! Vern

No probs mate. Glad to help :)

Yeh that's the right way to test it mate. That's the sign of a fooked ECU unfortunately! A replacement one should sort all your problems :) Regards, Vern

Check for a ~5 volt feed to the PTU - pull the connector off and test the input side. The input connector is the one with 6 pins NOT 7. If you have a feed, sounds like you've been unlucky enoguh to buy dodgy replacement PTU but if you don't have a feed it's an ECU/big wiring issue. My money is on a second dodgy PTU :) Cheers, Vern

I don't know why I thought the PTU should have a 12 volt feed...was convinced I'd read it on here but apparently not as with a fresh PTU the zed fired up today. I stripped the wiring loom back and checked for moisture and bare wire etc and then put the fresh PTU on and it fired up straight away. Still needs tweaking as it runs very rough at the mo but at least it actually fires and runs :) Regards, Vern

I'm 17. Was 16 when I bought it though. I'm crazy I know.

Still having problems with the engine electrics on my car. Have gotten hold of another PTU but daren't put it on yet until I get the wiring/ECU sorted and I'm waiting for payday to buy a new engine bay wiring loom as I've heard that even if you don't have problems - it's good to replace the wiring looms on the tt's once in a while and mine has definately been tampered with. I am now wondering whether or not I need to source another ECU though because there is only 5.1V going to the input side of the PTU now. I've check the pins of the ECU to see that it's not a wiring issue and it's 5.1V at the ECU too. What I'm wondering now is, is there something that triggers the 12V feed from the ECU to the PTU that might have been affected by the bodged wiring loom to cause it only to output 5.1V or is the ECU fooked? Also, where's the best place to get a wiring loom from? I've heard a lot of people import them for the LHD cars and you just end up with a bit of extra loom to hide under the battery tray :) I'm grateful of any advice! Cheers, Vern

Having had problems with the zed blowing PTUs I've come to the conclusion that a bodged wiring loom is at fault (taped wires everywhere) and I inteded to bypass the loom between the PTU output connector and the coilpacks to avoid the 4 volt backfeed I've been getting blowing my latest PTU. After studying the wiring diagram I saw that the PTU output connector wires, according to the diagram, go straight to the coilpacks but I have found this not to be the case on my car. The output connector wires infact go back into the ECU. Does anyone on here know why they go back to the ECU? What happens to the PTU output signal inside the ECU? I've realised that it could mean that not only is it a new 'engine bay wiring loom' I require but also a new ECU because that could be what's causing the backfeed. Cheers, Vern

Cheers FunkySi! I'm still waiting to see if I can get hold of one second hand but will be buying from there if I can't :)

Or even the Vibe Slick 69.2? I'm not sure what to do lol. I've read good and bad reviews about all of them! All the choices I've got are on this page of the Halfords website: Like I said I'm favouring the Infinitys at the moment because they're 3 way (as opposed to the 2 way Vibes), powerful and I've heard that Infinity is supposed to be good. Cheers, James

Cheers for the reply nellys300zx - can't see any FLI speakers on there at the moment though. Isn't FLI a branch of Vibe though? Looks like it's gonna be a choice between the Infinity Reference 9623i or the Kenwood KFC-6970ie from Halfords cause they're both the same price. I'm favouring the Infinitys at the moment - are they the best choice out of these two? I want something new and the idea with buying them from Halfords is that I can easily take them back if something goes wrong as opposed to if I bought it from eBay or similar :) Cheers, James

Lol I can imagine - knowing my luck if that had happened something would go wrong with them and they would have to be taken back!! Will do when I next get paid - was just wondering what extra forums there is :) Cheers, James

ianl - Yep absolutely right mate. Mine didn't have a ground wire in the loom so I attached one to the ground point behind the radio and soldered it into the Nissan to ISO conversion plug. Steve - Cheers - will see what happens with this one I might be able to get but I'll post on here if I need yours cause I haven't subscribed yet so can't use the pm facility! Quick question on subscription - I know it's nothing to do with the topic but I don't wanna post pointless threads on the board - what are the private members forums that you will apparently get access to if you subscribe? Regards, James

lucky b******!! Doubt that would happen for me! OK mate cheers. I'll see if I'm gonna be able to get a mounting cage but if not will just do what you say :) Regards, James

What about these: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_264419_langId_-1_CarSelectorCatalogId__CarSelectorGroupId__varient__categoryId_82387_crumb_31265-31371-38226_parentcategoryrn_82387? They're a little more expensive than I was looking for but I was always thought infinity was supposed to be good and those seem like real value for money from the reviews I've read. Any ICE enthusiasts got any comments about these? Cheers, James

Cheers for the reply zx-eyes. What I mean is - what supports the back of it? Does the back not just fall into the cavity behind the radio surround? I haven't had chance to try fitting the head unit again using the method you've described but I may have a chance to get hold of a proper mounting bracket anyway - still waiting for someone to get back to me on that. Like I said I've already sorted out the wiring but when I switched it on I noticed a rattling noise coming from the 6x9s in the back. At first I thought they may have glass in them from when the window was smashed and the radio stolen - but found out one of the 6x9s is actually blown. Anyone got any recommendations for CHEAP replacements? I emphasise cheap cause I'm not really into the whole I.C.E part of cars so I just want something that doesn't make a rattling noise that is ok sound quality wise :) Regards, James

Cheers for the reply Paul. Now to decide what colours to have....:D Regards, James