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ive done all that apart from aircon, na pump and battery relocate hmmm what i have i done that u aint.. prvr system? :D about 3grams cut off quite a few brackets not needed. about 40grams lol removed all the hicas metal and rubber/hose. the rear hicas solenoid is gone too. was a nice chunk of metal. removed front clutch bleed point and hose removed all unneeded air ducting from stock air filter etc aluminium top mounts ;) very light steering wheel. but ive added weight :( strut braces solid arbs :( engine skins grounding kit. Im still 1520kg :( want to get below 1500 at least.. means il have to ditch the ac.... hmm what else.

i know i cant wait, im soo excited :D :D:D anyone near me who has these fitted and can take me for a test drive?

Thats what i mean, you can loop them over the strut then back down and into the stock rear seat belt points. dam why didnt i do that......

what did you do to loose 70kg from the front? I need more ideas....

heres another one :D so you could weld in a bar somehow and fit the harness into the oem rear seat belt points then over the bar and through the seat. Hmmm i wanna do this now....

right i think i know what they do now. Either attached to the roll cage/harness bar, or attached to points in the floor of the chassis but the straps are looped over a horizontal bar so they dont crush you when under tension. like this: here i think they have bolted the eye bolts to the bar.

you could have the actual harness strapped around the strut somehow like in a proper rally car where they are looped around the harness bars. I think... im going to look for an rally car interior picture now :D I bought the plates from demon tweeks, cant go wrong really, my eye bolts came with the harnesses. Harnesses have an approved mark on the label somewhere, dont know if they are authentic though

forgot to mention the rear spolier, they weigh alot the stock rubber ones. Well ive got the front roll bar set on soft and rear is very stiff, if i set the rear damping to hardest it will just jump around over bumps and is pretty useless unless you want to drift, trying to talk with it on hard is a joke sounds like your talking with someone hitting you in the chest constantly lol. not as bad on soft though. I dont get alot of understeer like this, quite a bit of oversteer which i have been toying with. As long as i keep the throttle on round the bends its great. It still needs setting up proffesional which im getting to, once ive fitted adjustable lower arms and theres nothing left to fit it will all be worth it.

yes the rear seats are gone, and good ridence to them, no one fit in the rear anyhow, and it looks far better now, as long as you lay some carpet down where the seats would have gone.

:D ive removed most the rear crap but left the plastic trim, only coz im not sure how it will look or sound lol. I can say however that now its lighter in the rear along with such a stiff suspension setup i get barely any traction in first gear well actually nothing in first gear and nothing in second, 3rd and fourth will just spin in the wet all day long...... my next step will be better tyres... Also the negative camber doesnt help, a more flat tyre surface would be better. apart from that just take the plung and get rid of it all, you can always replace it. Im trying to think of more ways of reducing front weight apart from removing trim, wouldnt mind no carpets however. Im still holding onto the ac as ive just realised how handy it is now its getting hotter.

If that means having the harnesses bolted low down then its dangerous. I recently fitted a cheap set, Im looking to purchase some better branded ones in the future but for now these were a guide to see if i could in fact fit them which i could. Silverbullet has a set of harnesses fitted on a harness bar. which is welded in the same part of the chassis as mine. Heres what i did, it may not be the best way or safest way but it works. (ideally you should use a harness bar connected to a roll bar) The inside seatbelt clip which is connected to the seat rail can be removed and a eye bolt bolted in its place its that simple. BUT you can no longer use the original seatbelt. For the outside front point there is actually a plate already welded in the jap spec models and also the uk spec as the seatbelts were mounted there on uk specs but the jap spec also has the plate there also, so i pulled back the carpet and found the threaded hole, i then put the carpet back in place and made a hole through it with a screwdriver and screwed in another eye bolt. The most complicated bit is the rear point :( I took apart all the rear interior panels to get to the rear suspension turrets, Just in front of the turret i drilled a hole for the eye bolt then temporarily put the eye bolt through the hole and screwed it into a plate (which i bought separately) which has not been welded in place yet, i did this so i had a guide to weld the plate in place so i marked it up and welded a quick guide spot till it was stuck in place then i unscrewed the eye bolt and finished the welding (poorly my welder and skills are not great :() remember the strength from comes from the chassis not the welding as the plate is inside the turret so when all the force pulls on the plate it has to rip straight through the chassis through the other side. So even if i only welded one spot on the plate its still effective but obviously better to weld in on properly. Whatever you do, DO NOT fit the rear point in the rear back seat belt thread holes, this is deadly and can crush your back in a head on accident.

a vg30dett with 530bb's will piss all over a stock skyline anyhow, set thoise babies to 20psi and thats another story. Il be fitting a set of these turbos very soon so watch this space, :D

happy birthday matey

Id start with poly bushing all the suspension bits and just buy some subframe spacers unless your planning to remove the rear subframe? if you are then definalty fit some uprated bushings. All depends how far you wanna go with it all, you could buy adjustable bottom arms which rid of the lower bushings all together. most common suspension mods are adjustable camber arms front and rear, adjustable front tension rods. poly bush all the suspension arms, rid of hicas. adjustable antiroll bars with poly bushings and adjusatble drop links.

your gunna find bleeding it even easier now, takes me less than 5 mins to bleed it now and thats with my blonde sister pressing the clutch pedal.

You also need to do something with the old pipe that goes to the slave, You decide. i also just cut the end off and moved it out the way, i really should get round to removing it completely, real easy to do anyway you will have no probs.

Yes it can be removed, You can either follow the pipe and remove neatly, or just do what i did and cut the bugger off lol, i cut it near the firewall, so its out of view. Really couldnt be bothered at the time to follow the pipe etc Its just more crap you dont need,

their the puppies, two girthy bits of cast iron.

only one way to find out hey ;) i might just give them a nice smooth myself somehow... hmmmm wire drill brush lol

Hmmm for £145 that does sound like a good deal. Im interesed in having a look myself, might be worth getting them re smoothed on the inside. I just cant justice paying $700 excluding delivery and duty for mike smiths.... the ams however are available for $495 on ams website but again that excludes delivery and duty.

Was looking at these today.. Anyone care to share any more info? Ive messaged the seller and asked a load of questions, im waiting for a reply. We are talking about the turbo ones right? Looks to me like they might be stock ones with just a smoothed internal, but i could be wrong, well i hope i am coz il buy some :D If they are stock manifolds which have been bored out and smoothed then these will be well worth the money. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=270287032966

yep thats the part number on the website, Thanks again So what were these turbos like ie spool and top end, im getting excited already. what manifolds did you use?

lymon the actuators from CZP also have the same brackets????? http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/image.php?II=1289

Ah i think those flanges on the inlets are actually screwed onto the compressor wheel, just looked at a different pic of those z1 tubs and you can see a little spacer behind that bolt which is then screwed into the compressor, im thinking behind the flange is another rubber o ring or gasket to seal it. Hmm could be worth contacting z1 to see if they sell those flanges at a special price who knows.

Perfect thanks, just what i was looking for. is this the actuator we are talking about: http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=665 ive also found a set on ebay are these correct: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HKS-Upgrade-Actuator-Kit-300ZX-Z32-VG30-Twin-Turbo_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em63Q2el1177QQhashZitem190268434737QQitemZ190268434737QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Could i use a silicon reducer and attached it to the turbo inlet then a 45 degree metal elbow and weld that to the oem inlet pipes? wouldnt it be safer having less silicon hose too near the manifolds, thought they would have melted? This is what i would?