j1mmytt

im not a member :( hoping maybe someone here might be :)

Im off to get some........... unless someone knows why its so cheap there?

lol will do matey :D wont be long now.:tt2:

hey what happened to car of the year then? you got to carry that over first? every car of last years cotm?!?!

Well i am a bit worried about these plugs now, if they do start fouling then il have to change them, if they dont happy days? i do like being overkill with safety but maybe it is too cold, has anyone used these with problems? I have searched the uk forum and i havent found anyone running the 7's...... or even anyone running them with any problems so its hard to determine if they would give out any problems, theres only one way to find out eh? I appreciate your replys and help smithy very informative as always, maybe you should have posted when i created the thread, it may have affected the outcome lol :( never mind........

This is what Specialty Z has to say NGK Iridium Spark Plugs For years we searched for the "right" plug for high HP, high boost applications on our own Zs. After testing numerous plugs we found the absolute best plug money can buy. Trying to find an adequate plug colder than the PFR6B-11B proved to be tough, but these plugs deliver the best spark around. We offer these plugs in the heat range of 7,8, and 9. Our recommendation for choosing the correct heat range: Stock Boost Levels up to 15 psi: Stock Plug PFR6B-11B "7" Heat Range: Stock Turbos (any boost level), Sport 500s. 530s, & 600s. Great for street use. "8" Heat Range: For those who race at high boost levels and any upgraded turbochargers. Good for nitrous as well. Great for street use. "9" Heat Range: Race use only! Great for high boost and nitrous use. Not recommended for daily driving. All plugs come pre-gapped to .030", no gapping required! Ive also read on 300zxclub.com that some are running iridium 7's as daily drives with no probs on stock turbos even....?!?! I know in the us the ambient temps are greater but not enough to really effect combustion temps? some mpre info i found.... Q. Why are there different heat ranges? Which one should I use? A. Part of your spark plug’s responsibilities, in addition to firing a spark, is to remove heat from the combustion chamber. This is accomplished by channelling the heat through the insulator material and metal housing. From there, the heat is transferred to the cylinder head where the engine cooling system can go to work. A spark plug’s heat range is its ability to dissipate heat. The colder the plug, the more heat it can channel out of the combustion chamber. In a performance application, colder heat ranges may be necessary to handle the extreme temperatures brought on by higher compression ratios, forced induction, and high RPM’s. While colder plugs may seem to be the way to go, please remember that the spark plug must achieve its self-cleaning temperature where it can burn off fuel and carbon deposits. Otherwise, the plug could foul out where it is prone to misfiring and poor acceleration. A plug that is too hot can overheat, also causing power loss, detonation, pre-ignition, and possible engine damage. A good, general rule of thumb is to start with the factory recommended heat range. For every 75 to 100 hp you add to your engine, you may go to the next colder step. NGK and Denso use different heat range grading systems they are; NGK Heat Grade Denso Equivalent 5 16 6 20 7 22 8 24 9 27 10 31 Stock TT NGK - BCPR6EP-11 - gap to 1.1mm PLATINUM NGK - BKR6E (2756) - gap 1.1mm NGK Iridium - BKR6EIX-11 (3764) leave gap alone Denso Platinum - PK20R11 - gap 1.1mm Denso Iridium - IK20 - leave gap alone TT @ upto 1bar NGK - BCPR7ES (3330) - gap 0.9mm NGK - BKR7E (6097) - gap 0.9mm NGK - Iridium - BKR6EIX or BKR7EIX - leave gap alone Denso Platinum - PK20R11 - gap 0.8mm Denso Iridium - IK22 - leave gap alone TT @ upto 1.3bar NGK - BCPR7ES (3330) - gap 0.7mm NGK - BKR7E (6097) - gap 0.7mm NGK - BKR8E - gap to 0.7mm NGK - BCPR8ES (3330) - gap 0.7mm NGK Iridium - BKR7EIX - leave gap alone NGK Iridium - BKR8EIX - leave gap alone Denso Platinum - PK20R8 - gap 0.7mm Denso Iridium - IK22 - leave gap alone Denso Iridium - IK24 - leave gap alone Big Twins @ upto 1.3bar NGK - BCPR7ES (3330) - gap 0.7mm NGK - BKR7E (6097) - gap 0.7mm NGK - BKR8E - gap to 0.7mm NGK Iridium - BKR8EIX - leave gap alone Denso Iridium - IK24 - leave gap alone Big Twins @ upto 1.8bar NGK - BCPR8ES - gap 0.6-0.7mm NGK - BKR8E - gap 0.6-0.7mm NGK Iridium - BKR8EIX - leave gap alone Denso Iridium - IK27 - leave gap alone Big Twins @ 2+bar NGK - BCPR8ES - gap 0.6mm ??? UNTESTED NGK - BKR8E - gap 0.6mm ??? UNTESTED NGK Iridium - BKR8EIX or BKR9EIX? - leave gap alone ??? UNTESTED Denso Iridium - IK27 to IK31 - leave gap alone ??? UNTESTED

hmmm maybe your right, maybe il get it mapped with the 6's in then replace th old plugs?

so could i widen the gap a bit to help a touch? maybe i should keep my 11b's in for road use and the 7's for track use. I think silverbullet said he was using number 8's and his is fine. baaa i duno

report me then............ im not prepared to give something away thats worth £200 for 99p i think not..... thats why i said i only use buy it now, from now on. But your right about bidding being a farce i never bid on things, i just go for buy it now, i havent got time to muck about with bids........

lol ive done this b4 haha....... sold a load of motorbike panels for 99p i wasnt around when the auction was up so didnt have a chance to add a fake bid lol,,, ur mad if you think im giving all that away for 99p no chance.............. would you? Thats why i always list buy it now so i get what i want :D

ah bugger, so maybe just stick with 6 then :( Its hard to get the correct advice sometimes, ..... couldnt i gap the 7's to make them hotter then? they also have heat range 8 and 9 which are even colder.... i didnt think ambient temp affected the combustion temp much anyway?

hey i found a woman but im still here :D

i went ahead and bought the NGK heat range 7 :D cost me $64.99 from czp so thats £40 .....RESULT :D the ngk PFR6B-11B is only good upto 18psi.. ist what ive been told.... im hoping to get 20-21psi take a look http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=1163&Car_Type=300&UID=2009123011114282.35.131.32 Sport 530bb's specify the number 7's so thats what i did......

Its difficult to say as i dont know how low your car is etc, but how about either front 235/40/9.5 et20 what im running front 245/40/9.5 et30 less stretched tyre also depends which tyre your using as they all look different when stretched. rear 275/35/10.5 et30-35 rear 285/35/10.5 et40-42 less stretched tyre rear 295/35-30/10.5 et45 will look unstretched on a 10.5j all of above will need arch rolling. but they will look good. Im also unsure on how much space on the inside of the wheel you will have from the tyre to the shock etc..... these are just some options, YOU have to make them work......

Take a look at mine, they are on 9.5 all round with slighty stretched tyres. They stick out right to the edge they are on the limit, pretty sure i cant go any further unless i do somemore arch modding. Why dont you go for a 10.5 rear and a 9.5 front? that way youl have a nice fat rear wheel and the front will be pretty chunky too. it will be a hell of a lot of work to get the 10.5 on the fronts.

you would prob need et32 for the rear which will require arch rolling and a stretched tyre which will look great, you could have a less aggresive offset but im not sure how much room there is on this inside ,the front is another story. i suppose the same offset but youl need some negative camber dialled in and you would need a stretched tyre fitment maybe 235-245 which in a 10.5j will be pretty stretched. you would also need a serious arch rolling session. its very hard to calculate it with just numbers youd have to try a few things trial and error im afraid. There is a guy on the us forum who has i think 10.5 all round so maybe its worth finding him and sending him a pm. he owns a white na...

yeah i wanted to do that but its raining constantly :( ive got some wax especially for my wheels aswel.

Thanks Kim :D now you need to get yaself one.......

fat kids eh, need to lay off the wotsits and monster munch...

just realised someone must have stole my air dust covers :( w@nk3rs

That is the funniest thing ive seen all day.... infact all week ahahahahhaa idiots why the hell get out the car........

erm nope not yet but im counting the days, i keep the plate at the bottom right of the windscreen, i stuck it on for my mot the other week with some double sided tape then removed it again lol,its my mates garage anyway so its ok.... i will eventually stick on my sticker reg plate when i get round to it lol.

lol, i tried the autoglym stuff, didnt do a thing, so i bought some halfords wheel cleaner, didnt make a difference sooooooo then i bought the wonderwheels and weeheey it worked but ever so slightly, it took ages...... from when i started this post till now i been scrubbing away and using a plastic card a brush and cloth, finally lol its done.. aw i can rest now :D wonder wheels is an acid based cleaner so wont work on bare metal as it will corrode the hell outa it,.... my wheels are lacquered so its safe to use but wow it was hard work...... results.... ooo and i fitted my hid's the other day :D havent actually driven in the dark yet but i cant wait lol..

Ok this is seriously screwed up.... how the hell did it get this hard and near impossible to get off...... im not joking this stuff is like a thin layer of hard paint, it only comes off if you scrape it.... ive tried autoglym wheel cleaner and its not made a blind bit of difference. heres the story, i cleaned the wheels last week and they were kinda clean apart from a few dust particles on the wheels which i thought id get too later, i didnt polish the wheels after or anything, so i go for a drive to essex and back and they are caked in dust again so i thought ah il do it later, big mistake, im not sure if its the salt on the roads or something but the dust is solid, normally it really loose and easy to remove but nope this is proper stuck on there.... what do i do? i havent tried an acid cleaner yet, just worried its bad for a lacquered wheel?!?! any tips? you can see here under the mess the laquar is still good phew.... it took about 20mins just to get that patch cleaned....

well said.