j1mmytt

Hello and welcome may your wallet no longer be full. Stock gauges are not very accurate at all so i wouldnt trust them. When you next see the car bring a mechanic round to do a full compression test. this will give you piece of mind as to the engine being a strong example. Also check for smoke from exhausts and creamyness in the oil cap and water cap. there is a buying guide here somewhere im sure someone will post it up fuel smell is common and its usually the fuel pipes that need tightening. would be a good idea when bought to do a cambelt change no matter who says its just been changed you can never trust anyone. will set you back about £500 for a 60k cam service.

hay scott never pics me up from the station???? mechanics pet are you? i didnt get any special treatment :( wouldnt even knock 10 quid of my rebuild price haha. Im supposed to be at nexus monday but not mot or tax:(

That was on the news a while back.

z1motorsports.

yep that black box is the one.

hmmm has anyone got a noise example of worn vvt springs? ive read that they rattle at about 3000rpm and these are pretty easy to replace might be worth doing for ease of mind.

the air con ecu is to the side of the clutch pedal tucked up on the side of the centre. if all are connected and the motors are connected then check that the sensors on the ducting are connected like mark suggested. the ducting is just below the dash.

here we go:

Would be good to compare belts. ive got the covers loose and looked at the belt it looks a bit worn on the outside as though a idler is sticky or jammed!!!! hang on lemme take a pic.

You mean the metal cam cover at the bottom? i have not looked. my undertray is off at the mo so i might as well have a look. does anyone have any pics of belts that have been marked from a faulty tensioner or idler? mine seem to look a bit funny on the outside.... not sure if its normal.

do you think i should cut my loses and set it alight? Im not going to touch anything as its going back to the garage on monday if i can get it down there somehow. all bolts are tight i just checked.

Well i put a screw driver to the rocker cover top and to the cam cover and i could only hear it on the cam cover. Been doing a few searches and sounds like the probs peeps were having with noisy cambelt/tensioners etc. kinda like a milder version of hellraisers loose belts a while back :(

Ok i dont wanna seem as though im being fussy or searching for problems but check out this video: heres another video: ignore the whining noise thats just amplified for some reason, its that on and off rattle you can hear and its constant if kept at about 2000rpm. I removed the vvt connectors to see if the noise went buit it didnt. Not really the kinda thing i need right now. only noticable at 2000rpm Sounds as though its coming from the front left cambelt region and you can feel it if you put your hand on the cover. I have a recipt for a new tensioner vvt springs (the lot) except idler pulleys but would these make that kinda noise? sounds like belt flap :confused: very upset to say the least :(

true.

That will be my for sale thread :D These have not been taken out of the packet i bought them with my z1 rebuild kit but i went for a cometic gasket set so these are of no use to me. They are genuine oem gaskets. Wont find a set cheaper mate.

i gotta get me mate some of those.

sounds like the tps has been moved. you may need to set it back to 0.45v with a volt meter takes 5 minutes. then you may have to adjust the idle by using the idle screw. there is a sticky somewhere on this procedure. if none of this works then id suspect an air leak or dodgy idle valve. or maybe a jammed air regulator but not sure if they are common for failing.

happy d day :D

hay i live in north london palmers green where in edmonton you live?

haha legrath with the serious post :D

I remember when my heating only blew hot air, it was the actuators you mentioned above (air mix motors) they were not plugged in to the aircon ecu. check everything is connected first.

I sometimes get hissing from my backside.. what would that be then?

Sure you will be fine buddy. good luck

And from the intake? inlet valves?

First off remove balance bar, you only need to undo the 5 nuts, 3 on the passenger side and 2 on the drivers then the small bolts that hold on the brackets on each side of the plenum, then slide the throttle cable away from the balance bar clip, this makes it possible to simply twist back the balance bar giving you room to get a socket on the rear coilpacks but firstly unclip all coilpack connectors then unbolt all the bolts on the coilpacks and remove them. you can now drop an extension down to the plugs to undo and remove, but make sure you have a good tool to grip the ends of the plugs so that when replacing with new they dont drop down and ruin the gaps on the ends of the sparks.