WillieO

Really overfilled oil could get splashed by the crankshaft up the cylinder bores and possibly back up the turbo oil drains when cornering... like Bilky says... drain it to the correct level dont burn it off.

and they cost about £100 each from Nissan - so you want to be sure its not a connector thats got some oxide in it - a ten plus year old Z has loads of connectors like that around the engine.

run the diagnostics on the o2 sensors - see the manual. You can get diagnostic mode with the pot on the ecu box or by shorting 2 terminals in the connector under the rhs dashboard. Mine had a lazy nearside one and the connector at the back of the plenum was loose - the one with the red black and white wires going into it. Cleaned it up and fine after.

Cant you give it a little vacuum leak?

If you made 3-400miles then you have oil pressure. Otherwise your engine would have been dead a 399miles ago! Look in the oil filler with the engine running - plenty oil swilling about means you have pressure. Do you have any boost pressure? if you've bust the front wing and water bottle your IC on that side might also be ruptured - hence the hiss.

Did you notice how big Wogans ears were? I was in awe. Thought me widescreen was wonky.

But unless the rearmost pistons have actually already suffered damage there is nothing to gain. If they came near to failure maybe there would be stress cracks, opened up ring grooves etc but you wouldnt want them anywhere near the engine if there was any doubt about their integrity. So while rearmost ones have the hardest life in terms of nearness to disaster unless they cross the fine line they have to still be as good as the rest. If you had more ring groove wear on those I think you'd be back to new pistons anyway.

I found it easy to get them out by using a drill to waste the rubber part then a cold chisel to lift the steel sleeve part away from the edges of the rod holder end then it knocks out easy. Getting the poly one in needs a big vice and you need to be aware that it will really get out of shape before it pops in!

Quick check for oil pressure is to look inside the oil filler cap when its running. If its swimming in oil then you prolly have pressure if its dry then dont even run it. The knock prolly jerked the sensor and pulled off the connector.

You can see the tension rod bush is damp - that is the silicone goo leaking out of it. So it would be soft and squidgy. This might make it fail an MOT as well depending on the tester. Think you need to invest in new rods as well either from Nissan - expensive or go for superflex poly ones from Chris Witor at about £50 the pair just for the bushes. I've had those on 3 years now with no probs.

Check how full the expansion overflow tank is with the dipstick. If its going out the radiator cap then it goes there and if that is already full it overflows from there. Maybe just a poorly sealing rad cap. Take a look at the seal. Also feel / squeeze the top hose when its good and hot - it should be firm with pressure. If its soft you have a leak.

Dont forget to take that top water connection off and do the 2 short rubber hoses - they are a favourite for a small crack leak. iirc its an allen key socket you need to take the 3 bolts out. Some gasket goo needed to refit the water conn casting to the inlet manifold water jacket.

Pistons on rhs caliper - one or more seized. That disc will also prolly be most warped. If pistons on one side of the disc work then that side gets all the heat and uneven heating - one side hot and the other cool leads to warping. You are prolly facing 2 new discs and rebuilding the calipers with new seals and checking for rusted pistons. Saw exactly this on my UK a few years back. Tried the tension rod bushes etc first but it was the discs and calipers. New Nissan discs were destroyed with warp within 5000miles because the calipers werent done at the same time. More new 3G grooved discs and seal kit and no more problem and good brakes.

by Jack no thats how long you need to lose the receipt and get over how much you paid for it;) - by the law of averages pity they stopped burning witches, well at least the fake ones

Waterspray - Ford has some kind of system that uses the aircon to chill a small water tank. This can then be dumped on the intercoolers for instant one time use NOS effect until a refill can be done and chilled again. Seems a bit overkill for one time use lugging a water tank about with you. If you are getting err 34 is that not simply a bad connection to the det sensor?

Possibly detonation causing safety boost? Sory if too obvious. Switching off and back on again to reset it? But if the det comes back your back into safety again. Have you tried ultimax or other higher octane fuel?

Also watch its not the 2 short pipes to the heads. They are just above the water pump and can drip onto it making it look like the water pump. These are prone to failing every 3 or 4 years cos its hot in there. Also the water wets the belt making the screech. These short hoses are under and to each side of the top connection casting. You need a make up mirror and a torchto take a looksee just after switching off. You can change these hoses in half an hour with the rad and fan still on if you have small hands and the right tools.

Bo77ocks too thin. Its the right stuff, 40 is the hot weight. my 136k miles engine has had it since 110k and its proper. Doesnt burn it and it gets to its parts quicker than a Heineken. 60 is for track use or sha99ed engines. You dont see 60 weight mentioned in the makers handbook. Castrol RS 0-40 works for me.

My UK has one too. If the box takes about 8 or more litres yet you can only drain about 3 or 4 out of the sump you are only diluting dirty oil with new by refilling. How do you do a total change out without dropping the box and tipping it out of the torque converter as well??

Are we so PC that we cant mention the designer of the rotary engine? or is this our PC naughty word filter in action? ****el. Friend wanted a 350Z, had his order in to the dealer then when he wanted a deal on his trade-in they offered him buttons on a late low mileage pristine 200sx owned from new supplied by them. Not amused so he went round to Mazda who offered 3 grand more and took the RX8 then drove back to Nissan with it to get back his deposit on the 350Z. Funnily enough they then said they would have matched it if they had known he was serious. Had a run in it. Lovely machine but sounds a bit like a motorbike engine.

rest stays in the torque converter

TT needs about 9 litres I think

Stock UK shocks were over £120 each and you re use the actuators - shocks are Tokico as well with hollow piston rods so the actuator can change the valving inside.

So what extra premium does your insurers charge for chipping? Mine wanted about £300. Or do you give em some money anyway and drive around with no insurance?