WillieO

Chris Witor Superflex in 3 years now and no cracked track arms - I check - well worth £50 ish and a couple of hours

Take it you checked the fuel filter is not choked up solid with bits of scale etc?

by Andy Maybe a dodgy fuel pump thats loosing pressure on the injector rail hence the chatter and flat spot. When you ign on without starting the fuel injector rail should be well pressurised, you hear it ramp up then stop when the proper pressure is reached. If the pump keeps coming back on then other causes could be linked to the fuel pressure switch. I think on start up the pressure is boosted for a short time. There is also a fuel temp sensor in there somewhere.

I use whats recommended in the handbook - water and antifreeze and so far so good 136k and counting

I think that clicking is a relay and perfectly normal. I hear mine if I gently push the accelerator. It clicks just as it gets off idle. It defo comes from the dash somewhere behind the clocks.

Not wishing to be a granny here but what was the extra insurance cost for you guys who did do the boost upgrades?

Also find the connector to the wiring loom It has 3 wires a red a white and a black. Get the connector apart and check for green oxide. My diagnostic showed an iffy ns one but cleaning the connector cured it. I think the OS one is on the side of the plenum towards the rear. Run the diagnostic and count the flashes for the sensors

by David If you connect one in opposite polarity what happens is one is pushing the air while the other is pulling so you get cancellation and it is most obvious in low bass frequences. Hence tinny effect. Also if you dont seal the edge of the speaker to the hole its in the pushed sound wave from the front leaks round to the pulled wave at the back and similar cancellation occurs. So its really important to seal those edges with rubber gasket or similar. The 6X4s I took out were already open at the sides which helped crap the sound. Whoever fitted them had no clue

missws them first time

That was 5 X 7 in the 4 X 6 space

Justin Mines are BBS and the centre cap is the big nut type that screws in with the piece that covers the wheelnuts. Mine is silver in the centre tho. My local wheel guy can get BBS stuff. I asked about the stainless steel rim parts but they said the wheels need to go back to Germany to fit them as they must be split and only BBS will do it at £600 for 4 and no wheels for several weeks so I put up with a few scratches from kerbs.

Mine are sort of similar but the RS2 version split rim

I found the "secret" emergency valet code for my Clifford. I could tell you but then I'd have to kill you. It was wonderful to tap it in and have the lights on the dash all spring into life.

If this is for engine oil cooling then pressure drop doesnt matter as the cooler only gets dumped some oil when the pressure relief device is dumping excess oil under pressure. i.e when you are hammering it. It then makes its way back to the sump. When engine oil pressure is low then nothing goes near the cooler anyway. Its the sum total heat loss that counts while on its way thru the cooler so in series would be fine I think.

Mine went t*ts up after a flat battery. It then wouldnt work with the remote. I used the key but of course you drive your neighbours crazy. I tried the valet code tapped into the plain view valet switch only to set it of yet again and again. Then I cut the wire to the siren. It went off again but for 5 minutes this time then silence. With it now shut up siren wise I tried tapping in codes starting at all the ones until I found the emergency one that would open it. This allowed me to re register the remote to the car using the appropriate menu and its been fine ever since. Of course I re connected the siren. Oh and you dont want to smash it to pieces till you know how to de merge it from your cars nervous system. The installer should have given a print out of where it is merged with the fuel pump circuits and where with the ignition. My print out is on the old style fax paper which fades in time and is almost white now. The wires used to connect are all black so its not easy to take one out unless you are an expert. If its a recent install I would expect the installer to fix it for you.

If you've a TT then the rears have an adjustment. Its a cam bolt on the inner pivot on the top link. Easiest way on the fronts is shim plates on the inner top link mounts. I'm sure there's also people here will be able to get the fully adjustables s You can always get them from Stillen in US

Mines is as you describe with huge 3.5" pipes that seems to be tough to work with as its all welded sections. A bit louder than I'd like and when it was tried cats off it was way too load.

You should check the fluid level and also smell it and look for signs of burning. You might be lucky and find its just not been filled enough or lost some transmission fluid when it was off the car. You get the same symptoms when the box is stuffed but the oil smells bad and is dirty when it really dies. Usually you can get back drive for a few minutes.

An import NA will probably cost as much to insure as a UK TT maybe more. Insurers dont seem to discriminate much between the NA and TT and load it simply because its an import. And while the consumption on the TT can be bad I have never had mine as low as 12mpg. Worst was 16 in mid winter and more like 20 in summer. 26/7 best on long fast motorway. Petrol cost might be significant but its not the B all. Maintenance and repairs can be a real killer if you have no clue about mechanics because when something goes wrong on one of these its often expensive unless you can sort it yourself.

and O2 sender connections can also fall foul of the dreaded green oxide

Poweder coated plenum - Colin Dick - Dick300 had this done a couple or more years back and it looks very good. ..or you could get it polished while its off

If the engines done a good mileage or been well thrashed it might be smarter getting another one and paying just for an engine swap. If its big end knock its bad enough but if its main bearings and rumble then its pretty serious. A full rebuild from the crank up will cost serious. A bodge with replaced big end shells might make it last a few years but if the crank journals are trashed and it needs major regrinding then the engine might not be worth rebuilding. You could be into diminishing returns. Sorry to sound bleak but you could be writing a blank cheque here. Did you check what you can buy a new engine from Courtesy in Texas for? The price might not be what you expect - these cars are getting on a bit now. A second hand one from a reliable source might be good bet after all these cars are getting into the hands of people graduating from fwd hatchbacks and they often wrap them around lamposts within weeks of purchase meaning plenty 2nd hand spare parts.

Just make sure you take a poo before you drive - saves the same amount of weight:)

Why do you want to? If there appears to be a fuel leak under it it is more likely a hardened rubber fuel pipe that is slack and leaking fuel from the high pressure fuel injector side. IIRC it is on the NS between the back 2 plenum pipes. You have to take off the middle throttle cable cover with all the Nissan 24V twin cam stuff on it to get access to all conns esp the one down to the fuel injector rail - which is the one that often leaks making the FPR look broken. It has 2 off 8mm hose connections and a push on hose and is held on with 2 - 10mm bolts. You find it by No 4 coil pack. 2nd one back RHS when stood at the front of the car facing engine. Worthwhile investment is to buy some high pressure 8mm fuel hose and change every bity of hose you can find on the engine. After 10- 12 years on a hot zed they are all harder than a witches t1t. Hope this helps -check the on line manual for more info

Here goes hope this works Front door Also with the fronts I replaced the small dia speaker leads with decent section stuff. Getting it threaded thru the door to body shroud was fun. Rears