WillieO

Check mine in rides WillieO - twin 5" - A bit OTT tho

mine too and oil smelt bad in the bitter end with no drive then whirring noises. Sounds like zed autobox failure mode

my 92 series 2 has iron. Read that the ally ones were supposed to be implicated in disk warp but dont see how. Prolly iron is cheaper to make

Its coming to diesels too. The beemer 3 litre can make 270bhp and the Vauhall 1.9 can do 220bhp. Both are sequential little and large twin turbos. A repmobile with coathanger, less than 6 seconds to 60 and 47mpg, whats the world coming to?

prop centre support bearing is favourite. Rubber bellows in the bearing support goes hard and perishes and splits leaving the bearing sagging on the mount. Usually gets better as the car warms up. Think of it as a 10ish year necessity for replacement

Scooby guys are always up for that. I was invited one time and saw loads go through that place in Glenrothes (I think). I did think about putting the zed on it but after listening to the racket I thought I might be bringing the car back in bits afterwards Seemed like madness. On one evo they needed 3 fat blokes in the back to keep it on the rollers

Yea, I got 30 miles with the light on before it totally ran out:) It splutters then its gone. Took 69 litres to fill back up plus 3 I had in a can from my saviour the missus. It was just a case of forgetting it was on for a couple of days already. Lucky I was near home

But that end is the hot end with nothing in between it and the stock sensor so the water is the same temp there

I had stuff take 2 / 3 weeks on surface mail

This might be a good idea. At first I thought wrong place as well but this end of the rad is at the same temp as the normal sensor position. Its the other end that feeds from the thermostat and so that end stays cold until the stat opens and then it only sees cooled water temp? or do I have the flow round the wrong way? Would you drill and tap the plastic plug or use a metal one and risk cracking the brittle plastic end tank?

by Homebrew Well if you've got a proven 400bhp it's possible but I would guess that 177 on the clock might really only be 160/165ish real speed with the kind of error you see over 100. Its all debateable but an unrestricted stock will top out pretty close to 160mph true speed.

down a humungous 10 mile 1 in 10 hill:)

You have to be careful that your steering was straight before or was it already off centre before you had the rear subframe re bushed? When the rear end was put back together there is a chance that they have not set it up exactly as it was before. Or maybe the diff is now in a slightly different position which in turn off sets the HICAS rack slightly to one side or the other. So if the front end was fine before its the back that you need to adjust so that you get parallel and also a straight steering wheel. Start by getting the rear on parallel then drive it. You will almost certainly have the front off centre meaning the car is crabbing and the HICAS sensor in the steering column cant work properly either. You then have to get back under and as you shorten one side HICAS arm you must add exactly the same length on the other until the steering is dead straight. Finally recheck its parallel. Its trial and error but you can do it this way. The alternative is to get a good 4 wheel alignment done and make sure they know how important it is that the steering wheel is dead centre. Too much toe in shouldnt wear out your rear wheel bearings in the short term but if these new subframe bushes are very hard or if they have tightened everything up solid you will get road noise transmitted through the body whereas the original bushes isolate that to a large extent. This whirring can sound like bearings. Same with the diff. If its metal casing to metal body anywhere the noise will transmit. I think this noise issue is especially true of the subframe washer gizmos that actually crush up the stock bushes and make everything rigid. There is a huge difference in the handling of the car with the back end set all wrong. It is twitchy and unstable especially in the wet.

Superflex ones on 3 years now and I look at the lower arms regularly. They are OK. I'll keep an eye on them for sure though. When I fitted them I thought they were a bit soft but maybe thats how it should be. I have piccys of the suspension at full travel in both directions and you can see that they flex totally. I would suggest that the problem is in harder stiff compounds with the wrong elasticity. While the rose jointed ones are obviously better in that respect as there is no compliance resistance they are not so good at shock absorbtion when a wheel hits a pothole or whatever. Then your wheel or tyre is more likely to be damaged. Each has pros and cons. A bit of winter dirt and road salt will also soon roger the rose joints as they are totally uncovered unless you grease and boot them.

It should be set up parallel. The HICAS arms must be exactly the same adjusted length each. You'll know its wrong if the steering wheel is off centre when your straight.

Sounds like o2 sensors to me. I'd plug em back in and run the diagnostic and count the flashes. Its a doddle to do. Just use a paper clip to short the connection points in the diagnostic connector just under the dash far rhs. Check the online manual for the right points. You will know immediately if they are working and the engine will run better and you will notice better mpg and part throttle drive. Or you could just plug em in and let the MOT tester prove em

Please define:) Do they rattle? I fitted the NISMO ones summer before last and they are fine -I hope! They are supposed to have a little bit of play - there is a Nissan bulletin about this.

Do you think they'll want the other 3 now? All low mileage too. Cost you and me a packet- they got 66% off and a free return to base warranty:) Maybe they needed to practise first before trying to drive one of those home

Before you blame the water pump check out the two short hoses to heads above it and behind the top ally connector where the temp sensors are. You need a small mirror and torch

Worn HICAS arm balls on the inner ends or end bushes or if they've been done then incorrect tracking. Mine originally had 8mm toe in and it wiped out the inside edges of tyres first. You could feel the feathering from the outside to the inside on the tread and rough the other way due to the scrub effect. Also the rear camber is adjustable and at this age maxing it out for minimum negative camber is worth doing to counteract bush sag. Mine had one side on max the other quite on negative camber. Unexplainable. Both maxed out now and there is still slight neg camber and its defo not lowered either but the tyres wear much better now and the wet handling is so much better.

3gbrakes Had the 20 groove stock size ones on 2/3 years. Machined from Brembo castings. Been great and dont eat the pads. Ended my judder problems. They also do big disc kits etc

:) Looks bril. A while back I heard about a guy who waved to his wife and kids and lost some fingers in the fan right behind him! So mind an turn the fan off before you wave to anyone :)

z has a pressure relief valve that only lets oil go to the cooler when the pressure exceeds about 50 - 55psi. So the cooler is only called on at decent rpm i.e. when you need it. At low running pressure nothing goes to the cooler and doesnt need to.

Anither Falkirk bairn here! and Colin Dick is in Bonnybridge

What dya mean I've got public hairs on my teeth?