kierash

Andy, I don't know about the tectom but I've a multi checker perminantly in the z sitting above the clocks I find it quite good, lets you keep an eye on all sorts. ask lymon and do a search on here, cause I've posted before Pete :)

I have the upgrade on my Z and its brilliant, I,ve not looked at the mot side of things yet. BUT the lights DONT need butchering just a little careful dremel work---- I can still fit standard bulbs in 20 minutes if I need to. Pete ;)

chameleon dog---- kidnap it , worth a fortune

these vehicles are designed for the rough stuff and water I agree,but not at road speeds they can still suck in water if there not modified and they can aquaplane just like the rest of us, however most 4x4 vehicles these days are driven by the school run crew or weekend warriors who just have no real idea of what these vehicles are truely capable of so they treat them like cars.Maybe the driver didn't what to upset the other drivers by throwing alot of water up Pete:)

drive it and rev it like there no tomorrow--- u may be suprised Pete:)

silly question answered -----Yes --- fluid is ok speed sensor-----I disagree because the apexi multi checker that I've connected is set to monitor speed (it's more accurate than the speedo anyway) this doesn't drop off or flicker when the speedo does I'm not ignoring the idea of the speed sensor but it's at the bottom of my list at the moment Pete :)

HELP it's doin my head in my power steering seems to go heavy then light when cornering, have done a search on here and read all the replys?. but I have an apexi multi checker wired in and that tells me the speed sensor is ok, new speed convertor fitted a few weeks ago -- got it from Luke,heres the part where I'm stuck the speedo has an intermittent fault on it -- some times it doesn't work. Question does the speed sensor signal get split into 2 signals after the speedo I.E. 1 signal into the speedo then 1 out to the ECU and 1 out to the powersteering. I think the problem is speedo related but would like any other opinions. Pete:)

thats the idea jezz, but I don't know vijays diy skills so I can't recommend and u/g joint.As a qualified electrical engineer I would be out of order recommending something like that without knowing a little background info. Pete:)

I DO NOT recommend any other way, but you could joint it if YOU wanted to just make sure you do it in a waterproof box and there's plenty of insulation around each jointed conductor Pete:)

p.s where the cable is to pass through concrete, thread the cable through some waste water pipe and seal the ends with expanding foam( if the cable develops a fault then a new one can be put in quite easily pete:)

personally,I would completely remove the old electrics right back to the house fuse board, then install a new piece of 6mm or 10mm 3 core pvc steel wire armoured cable from the house fuse board to the new garage-- depending on the distance from the house to the garage this would give you a capacity in the garage of about 40amps. I would also fit an RCD in the house at the beginning of the new circuit and fit a 6 way mcb fuse board in the garage. unless you are an expert cable jointer the DO NOT joint the cable outside. and get the installation certified by a qualified electrician cause if these a fire and the insurance traces it to badly installed electrics they won't pay out and it's worth it for you're own peace of mind Pete:)

without knowing the layout, are you keeping the old garage etc then it's difficult to advise you, what power will you need etc damn it man be more precise pete:) :D

as long as you don't do too many start/stop cycles then I would recommend an inverter- once set up correctly they'll last a lifetime and give the best protection to you're motor and incoming mains supply. a motor just on a standard start stop cycle can draw anything over 6 time it's full load current-- doesn't do much for the bills if it's used alot. the inverter will limit the max current until it's ready to increase the power.a single phase motor WITH IDENTICAL CHARACTERISTICS AS THE 3 PHASE will be large and require a large power supply to drive it. you could look at a motor gearbox combination-- you could get the same speed and torque using a little fractional horse motor and a reduction gearbox. a little long winded, but hope it helps Pete:)

sod it, I think I'll try it anyway. Pete:)

richard, that's what I've been thinking about myself, but wanted to run it across the forum for opinions first. I didn't want to start cutting up and modifying a perfectly good set of spares for someone to come along and say been there done that don't work. Pete:)

that doesn't really matter at this point, but for the sake of the discussion then yes and it's very easy to modify the wiring to switch 2 lights ,but this is detracting from the original question pete:)

they would be twin filament so hi and lo would remain, just a small wiring mod. As for the glass lense I agree it does alter the beam height and spread but this is relative to the position of the light source behind the lense. have looked at several headlights on other cars and the glass lense pattern is fairly uniform in their layout. if you look at a standard h4 hi/lo lamp then 1 filament is near the top of the glass bulb along the centre line and the tip is darkened out whilst the other filament sits below the centre line with nothing in front to diffuse the light, so in theory when each filament is powered up the light source to the lense shifts about 5mm. Anyway it was only an idea-- possibly a bad one but worth asking pete :)

this may seem a bit daft to some of you die hards on here, but sod it here goes anyway.As we all know the low beam is crap and this set me thinking cos I've a spare set in the garage-- could the high beam reflector be modified to take a standard H4 hi/lo lamp, as if I'm right it's the position of the lamp filament that alters the beam pattern. if it's though to be worth doin then I may have a go--- I know it'll mean altering the hieght and spread of the hi beam reflector but I just wondered and the wiring mods aren't a problem. Pete :)

sorry , i should have said that the red have 4x printed very faintly on them and yellow have 1x faintly printed on them--- so make sure you're media is rated for the speed you want, it's a mistake I made, I've just managed to off load a sh*t load off 1x speed cause I didn't check the speed properly Pete :)

this may sound daft but if you're using yellow disks then they are single speed, my dvd copier using nero 6 does plus and minus at 4 speed provided I use red 4speed disks Pete:)

gob smacked, quite impressed:eek: pete:)

I agree with Andy, but it sounds like the bearing is worn and on it's last legs/ balls/ rollers-- well u know what I mean Pete

not if the end is flush with the pipe, anyway application would dictate the material, is it for water or vac, is it next to a very hot area or not, etc. plastics are tricky to say the least. pete:D

why noy get a small piece of 22mm copper pipe and a solder on blank, solder the blank to the copper then insert up the hose and secure with jubilee clip pete:D

all 5 brake lights still work as brake lights, except in fog, then I already have 2 on so 3 work off the brake pedal. Pete:D