domtheboyo

Mike, Don't suppose you can show me where the det sensor is while you're at it!! :p Good job by the way.

Is there anyone willing to look at the results of a run I did yesterday. I need an expert to analyse my Logfile and tell me if it shows up any obvious issues.

After using my ConZult diags I got an error 34 knock sensor 13 starts ago. I have searched through threads to get a basic idea of what this means but would like to know what detonation is? I have never noticed my Zed going into safety mode and have never had any performance issues with it. If this circuit was disconnected and the car was turned on, will the ECU return this error. The only work I've had done near the det sensor circuit is the heater matrix pipes. I've cleared the errors and reset my ECU and now get Code 55. If this knock error returns, does it mean it needs looking into or could it just be a one off? Cheers Dom

It's in Wrexham

A few hours away. Wales is a big place you know. Demon Tweeks is near Chester I think. Nearer North Wales. Not sure if my Zed would make it! :p

Is it me or am I the only Zed owner around here? Isn't it about time we arranged a meet around the South Wales area? That is, if there is anyone out there?? :confused:

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Just popped to the local Tescos. Haven't driven the car over the last couple of weeks until I replaced the heater core (and it wasn't giving me much happiness after that job!) Anyway, went in to do my shopping and then walked back to my car. A family had just parked next to me in their Dad's shiny new Celica. (Doesn't do anything for me but dad was obviously proud of it!). I had to wait a bit while their little boy got out of the back seat so I opened my car with my zapper while I waited. The little boy must have only been about 7 years old and he stopped in amazement at my old Nissan and said in the most excited voice, "WOW! Dad, what car is that?". "It's a Nissan 300zx", replied dad, under his breath.....well done dad... Anyway, just goes to show, my car is almost 14 years old and still gets a good reception. Just thought I would share that with the rest of you!

All finished. Removed EVERYTHING and removed the entire heater core assembly. Replaced heater core and put it all back together.....and guess what? Everything works! I am proof that you do not need to spend up to a £1000 for Nissan to do the job. I have spent less than £200 and did it all myself. I am not even a mechanic and don't know a thing about cars but I must say, I put every screw back in its rightful place and didn't snap any plastic......phew! I know more about my 300zx today than I have ever known about any car. enjoyed the whole job!

pipes not pies!:slap:

I have ended up removing the whole dash! what a mess. i hope I remember which screws go where!! Anyway, need more help.....I see the heater core and the pies going to it. However, I have not had much luck removing the screw from within the firewall. Is it best to remove the pipes from the core or to remove the whole lot as the new replacement from Nissan comes with the pipes. I don't like the thought of removing the pipes from the core as the new one has a water tight, rubber gasket thingy which won't budge, even with the 4 screws removed! Do I need to remove the whole assembly that the core is in? I'm following the instructions from the Aussie site but ended up removing the dash just so i could see what the hell I was doing. Anyway, I'm in a bit of a mess now and wish I hadn't bothered. I'm afraid I'm not going to remember where everything went back!!! Is there anyone here from the South Wales area that has done this that could come and give me a helping hand? ANY advise would be grately received....:confused: :confused:

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I've got the control box out. What next? Can't seem to remove the bracket. I can see two screws at the very top but having difficulty getting to them. I have unscrewed the motor but cannot get it off! Help....:mad:

Has anyone on here successfully replaced the heater core following the instructions from the Aussie Site. I have removed the black control box but cannot remove the bracket. I am doing all of this without removing the dash. There is a small black box above the control box. I have removed all screws but cannot remove it. Does anyone know what to remove next after removing the control box from its bracket?:confused:

Checked the oil. Looks fine. Looking into the rad, the water is more a white froth. Only ran her a little while. Temp needle just started to go up but the idle was rough. Looks like I've lost some more water from the rad. Will take it down the garage tomorrow. I hope it is just the matrix and not the head gasket...:(

;) Some good advise there. Cheers. Not being a mechanic, can someone answer this question: Does the fact that I've lost the contents of my rad mean that the pressure has dumped it through the faulty matrix into the car? I have just filled the rad up with water to test it. I ran her until warm, all the time, I had the heaters on full. The second I turned the heaters off, I noticed the water pissing from the passenger footwell. My question is, is this from the rad? (I have no idea how it all works!!). Have also looked through a few posts and saw a good link to the Aussie site. Shows how to replace the matrix without removing the dash. I might give it a go to save money. Where's the cheapest place to buy a new matrix from? Checked Courtesy but couldn't find one. Will the fact I have an import make any difference?

Driving to work this morning, could not get the bloody windows to clear up. Hot air coming out of the vents though??? Just check the driver's footwell and the carpet is soaking wet and I can smell coolant. Also, the RAD coolant level has dropped dramatically and is very low. Just a hose or something worse??? :cry: Any advise would be great.....

My aircon is disconnected. Could this be why? Do I need to buy a new relay?

I have a twin turbo but have no relay in the subfan slot!! Is that right? What is it exactly?

She's cooled down to just under the half way mark now. I've added 2litres of water into the expansion tank (I haven't done this since I've had it!!!) and left her running for 15mins. Engine temp constant. No problems at all. No white smoke from exhaust amd no bubbling noises or steam from the engine. I have always checked the coolant level from the RAD and it has always stayed constant. Am I right in thinking this is seperate from the coolant tank on the front right of the engine bay and I should also have been checking this regularly? I must add, the dip stick reading does not appear to be reliable!! Advise needed before I decide to sell her!!:cry:

Just drove her round the block a couple of times and the gauge started to rise. It stopped just under the H but I cannot hear fans starting at the front. I turned her off and checked under the bonnet and I can hear the RAD bubbling away so she's obviously overheating. My question is: (i) What is the SUB FAN? I have no relay installed for this. (ii) As my Air-Con is disconnected I've swapped the relay with the RAD FAN one to see if it's a fault. (iii) If the car is overheating whilst driving at a constant speed, the engine is not cooling, could it be a problem with the expansion tank? Help needed as I am thinking of getting shot of her 'cos I've had enough!

Having f***ed around fitting the glo-dials into my car last week I decided to remove them as they didn't work and the mph were wrong (US). Anyway, since putting them all back together everything looked sweet. My intermittent odometer problem has been fixed in the process but now a new problem has occured. My temp gauge moves to the centre correctly when warming up and appears find but every now and then (not that often), it will go right to the H, stay there for a bit, then come back down the the centre. It has done this during normal driving conditions and I have checked to make sure the engine IS NOT overheating and it appears fine. I get no issues with the engine/power at all or steam etc... I'm still a little concerned just in case it is the engine overheating but I am not loosing any coolant either. Do you guys think I have just upset the temp gauge or is there a way of testing the engine is not overheating without relying on the gauge? Is it worth a trip to the garage? Thanks guys. Dom

Auto Windscreens came to the house on Thursday and decided not to do the job because it was raining. I had to drive the car 20miles to their depot. Sat there for 2hrs while they fitted the glass. They finished but it did not fit correctly and we couldnlt open my boot!! Dropped it back to them on the Friday morning. They had it ALL day and when I got there around 5pm to pick it up they were just finishing off. Glass fits now but now my rear washer doesn't work. They said it must be faulty as all they did was remove the nozzle and put it back. I explained it worked find before they messed with it but they are not willing to repair it. I am going to complain to the call centre today and see if I can get a repair done at their cost! How do the rear washers work? I looked at it myself and all the pipes are connected and I can here the motor going but no water!! Is there some sort of valve in the pipes that they could have damaged??

Not having a good day today! Terrible gale force winds last night. My car alarm went off at around 1am this morning. Got up to check, all okay. Got in the car this morning and closed my door and the back window had caved in!!! Got out to find a tile from next door's roof had fallen off in the wind and struck my back window!!! Anyway, need to get it fixed quick so contacted my insurance (Adrian Flux). £50 excess on the policy for glass and they will cover up to £500. They got National Windscreens to call me and they quoted £697 (5 hour job in the workshop!) for the repair and they informed me the insurance company will only pay £200. I got this cleared up with AFlux who said they WILL pay £500 (luckyily). Maybe National Windscreens were trying to pull a fast one! They also can not get the part until Friday. I contacted RAC/Auto Windscreens who are also approved by my insurer and they could do the repair on my driveway tomorrow for £303.15 ALL IN as I am an RAC member. They only have one in stock in the whole country (apparantly!!). Problem I have is that all the UK glass has a blue tint but my import has brown tint and is not available in the UK. I rang Nissan to get a price on the JAP glass and they said it was over £300 and will take 4 weeks as they do not stock Jap parts. Looks like I will have to go for the blue tint now and to top it all off I loose my nice big 300ZX sticker off the back window!! Q1. Does anyone know where I can get a JAP window from in the UK? Q2. Is the 300ZX logo an after market sticker or did the cars have them from new? Q3. Are the 'roadside' replacements as relyable as 5 hours in the workshop? Cheers guys Dom

Bugger!!! As my car is still limited to 112MPH I might just forget about it and rip out those yanky-doodles!!! I've got them in now and I must say they do look cool but as your already suggested, my needles are sticking and the MPH is wrong anyway!! I will go back to my original dials and do the convertion in my head me thinks!! :slap: