JeffTT

Initially thought the same but location wrong, I see this flipping connector every day I am under zeds and its normally clipped up next to the one for the steering rack solenoid, so it most likely is the one to the pressure switch on the steering rack. Jeff TT

crank angle sensor or flywheel sensor, locate the cable connector and disconnect and reconnect, you may need to get a diagnostic done though as with high level OB2 it like looking for a needle in a haystack job. Having said that you never know, sometimes going too technical can lead to missing the very obvious like plugs air filter etc. Jeff TT

List growing:D 1) Recirc valves 2) Rear diff internals and AC canister 3) Cleaning idle valve if poss

Good call, have seen a few particular boost problems with these on the increase, ok thats on the list now any more guys? 1) Recirc valves Jeff

Inside out feature As per the title, if there any parts ( not internal engine parts ) that I can dis-assemble and photo with a working explaination let me know here and will do my stuff. Jeff TT

Inside out feature Cas unit The cas unit is a much talked about part of the zed engine but quite what it does and how it does it is more of a mystery for many than its needs to be. It`s closest comparison is the more commonly recognised distributor on engines in the past, but the cas unit does a whole lot more than the lowly distributor. The ecu takes signal pulses from the cas unit pick up, these signals are used to trigger the coil pack at the correct time (ignition timing ) and to feed earth triggers to the injectors again at the correct time ( fuel timing) To know how it does this take a look at the photo's, the reluctor disc has a series of slits and gaps which rotates at cam speed (half engine speed) the disc passes through the pick up sensor, within this sensor is light emitting diode one side of the disc and the other side a light receiving device. As the disc spins the light passes through the series of slits and gaps and fall on to the receiver which produces a signal output at the pick up which is then sent to the ecu to interpret the information and trigger the injectors and ignition coils accordingly. If you take a more careful look at the reluctor disc it can be seen that the larger gaps are not evenly spaced which initially would look incorrect however quite the opposite, by doing this the ecu can not only calculate when to trigger the coil packs and injectors but gives it the information to know exactly what the position the engine is to a very fine degree. Using this finer timing accuracy gives improved performance and works in conjunction with the injectors double-action fuelling, all fueling when cold starting and sequential fueling when warm starting and running. The cas unit is a very hardy unit and will give many years of service but as with any electronic part can fail, the connection is one area that can be cause of cut outs and non starting. But a lesser known fault is drifting of the output signal, this can show itself as a constant small increase in timing angle and then lowering, also it can suddenly spike 10 degrees and then return back to the correct idle setting of 15 deg. this however should not be mixed up with a faulty connection to the tps hard idle switch that can produce the same effect. For testing purposes you need to monitor the ignition timing with a conventional timing gun and with Conzult at the same time to check it what is actually going on, strangely later series III cars that have a different looking cas unit seem particularly prone to signal drifting and although the unit can be the cause we have found later wiring looms use less shielding and this is more likely the problem and as a consquence paying particular attention to earths and cable looms on series III is very important. Finally in the photo you can see the rear bearing, this can be the cause of many timing issues from signal drifting to noise by audible and electronic interference noise. So all in all a very important bit of kit which is often overlooked as a potential problem as the engine will often apear to run ok even when the cas unit has issues, inspection, timing and Conzult is the key. Jeff I

Yes both the autobox and manual box have switches that are wired into the engine ecu. The idea is to help prevent stalling when pulling away, so the timing advances slightly when either a gear is selected or as in the case of an auto drive is selected, many of the switches in manuals do not work now and can be the cause of tickover and pulling away issues like hesitation. Jeff TT

Neutral switch in gear box goes closed circuit when a gear is slected. Jeff TT

Front fog lights switched on? also brings on the side lights, easy to press when messing in that area. Jeff TT

Easy bits first, disconnect from the mains and then remove the cmos battery for 30 mins to clear the cmos, refit and try a reboot, if all works and boots up go directly to the roll back feature and select a previous day when all was working ok and then restart. If non of that works and all connections and cables look in good order you may need to use a serial port device ( on e-bay ) will help if you know your motherboard make and model, go to the relevant web site and see if you can download the cmos file and reinstall this, CAUTION cmos mistakes can kill motherboards so be careful. Failing all of this and before writing any hardware off a virtual windows boot disc is the easiest way to go, allows you to look at the HD to see if all boot ini files in place and of course save any thing you do not want to loose. ( ebay again ) It is possible a courrupted boot file is all that is preventing the complete boot, reinstalling the file will most likely result in an admin password requirement and this sometimes becomes corrupted too ( seen this very recently) and then you need to find the password on the hd via the DOS prompt key (location is always the same) it will appear as asterisks but no worries just remove them and re-enter a new password that you know and then save / enter. Return to admin request and now you have cracked the login full access should return. The isssue you have may potentially be "fixed" by one of the above but been a windows issue also means it may not and requires more than what can be easily explained here. Good Luck Jeff TT

Most likely a seized compressor, fuse removed to stop it engaging,try turning the front of the air con pulley check the rotation of the inner section and if there is a belt fitted. Jeff TT

Labour cost to remove and refit an engine with all fluids and engine set up £650.00 + vat Jeff TT

Good man :dance: Jeff TT

Oh dear gets worse before it gets better then??? dosing up on benelin, anadin extra and some weird mentol crystals Lynda put in some hot water and told me to breathe in...oh my God nearly blwe my fipping head off. I know I have to let it run its course as there is not a cure as such, so what is everyones tricks to managing it meanwhile Jeff

Anyone else got this bloody flue bug? watched Lynda last week coughing and weezing confident it would not get me as I don`t get colds etc. etc, woke up this morning and felt sh?te over the day has got worse and worse, headache, coughing, running nose, sneezing, headache to kill for, throat like its has razor blades down it, Lynda now feeling better is having the last laugh of course, but its man flue and thats much worse:eek: Lynda has spoken with a family and friends tonight and seems a fair few have it in our region, wonder if its all over or just local to the Midlands? All of this just 3 days before Jamie gets married too!!! I have the dinner speech to make, dont think the guests close are going to be too happy getting splattered with flem and boggies. Jeff TT

Spealtrong if you want to subscribe to the forum, that will make you eligible for a free no obligation health check over for your new zed, a full ConZult and set up, we can take a cursory look at your cambelt, mail me at jeff@zedworld.co.uk the number plate of your car and will get any info we have on your zed on our data base. Jeff TT

As I am sure you know .... COMPLETE RUBBISH :hurl: Jeff TT http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SAVE-PETROL-FITS-Nissan-300-ZX%2F350-Z%2FAlmera%2FBLuebird_W0QQitemZ270390246377QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090514?IMSfp=TL090514137001r18161

Take a look at the poor quality packaging that has been done on the exhaust sytem below, it was purchased on E-bay by a customer who had it shipped direct to us in advance of his zed arriving. No time or care been taken, remarkably seen as it was a £150 transaction the seller could of tried a bit harder eh? Jeff

Slightly different name but same company address and plenty to think about BEFORE you get a gearbox from them, see what happened to the guy with an MR2:nono: Check out the link http://www.danfreakley.co.uk/blog/naughty-easy-jap-parts-ltd/#comment-25071 Easy Jap Parts Ltd ( Via Yell.com ) 1603 Pershore Road, Stirchley, Birmingham, B30 Midland Jap Parts Ltd ( via Google ) 1603,Pershore Rd Stirchley Birmingham West Midlands B30 GOOGLE IS YOUR FRIEND Jeff TT

Mmm..... maybe 4th or 5th in 10 years so yes very unusual. Jeff TT

Exhaust manifold to head. Jeff TT

Small sensor that provides the gearbox ecu with internal gearbox speed, essential for the gearbox to work correctly. The good news is the sensor is fitted on the outside of the gear box on the passenger side about half way down so can be changed fairly easily, a good used sensor would be ok to keep the cost down. Jeff TT

Hey up Gio! always good to come back to a welcome only the 300zx forum can give. Nice one:nana2: Jeff TT

Warning to all zed owners but in particular UK spec ones, started to see a worrying increase in corrosion issues with engine sumps, the first two photos show how it starts, eventually as seen in the last photo the sump becomes very thin and porous, replacement is the only answer which can be costly in labour as well as a new sump pan. So if you have noticed an oil leak under the engine and an oily sump pan check it out , and anyone who has not got a leak yet, check your sump pan for corrosion and treat it asap. Jeff TT

This subject has troubled me for a long time and its good that before you commit to a fmic that you have put some thought into it. If you consider that when Nissan designed the Z32 they would have had acccess to all the technical information and lab development results and from that they came up with the intercooler design. Now of course there were compromises based on the position of the cooler, the space available at that space and no doubt costing. So given those compromises it could be said that larger after market are bound to be an "upgrade" and better than the original. Now looking at how to calculate the size of the intercooler which incidently would need someone much brainer than me, not only is the cooler internal capacity part of the equation so is the additional pipework and how this pipework will effect the airflow. The engine and its capacity to produce boost and how the engine reacts to the boost also neeeds to be calculated otherwise just adding a larger intercooler could have the reverse effect of what was wanted, remember the turbos have to "fill" the pipework and intercoolers before the engine starts to benefit, so the longer that takes turbo lag becomes more noticable. I am fully aware that after market parts have their own "hype" and for sales reasons but often that "hype" lacks real world technical information or back up but equally does sound and look very attractive making you feel good about fitting these parts. I suppose you need to know if its right for you and in my opinion unless you have a big power motor and plan on driving it hard when air temperature are high and you can accept the possible downsides then yes go for it, if however you drive a standard or slightly moded motor and do not expect to be driving in Death Valley then I would leave well alone. Having driven in all conditions in amost every type of zed out there on a daily basis I cannot honestly say I have felt any improvement, but that said on a rolling road in where heat soak has the most effect the figures do stack up remember though in the real world we drive OUTSIDE and stranger too the intercooler suppliers mostly rely on rolling road figures to demonstrate why their cooler is better than the next one. Just my opinion of course :D Jeff TT