JeffTT

Wonder if you guys could help me, whilst the past decade + of business has been a constant learing and relearning of new ways to promote and keep the best service available I am always keen to hear others views. Below is a series of pm`s from a customer who I concidered had received a good service with a fair price and tech help to boot. Unfortuntately there has been a problem a few months later that to be fair has not been substantiated by ourselves but as usual we take things as we are told as there is no reason to think other wise and so offered tech support and advise and later a replacement part, to keep cost down for us we sent the part by Royal Mail not courier as we normally do, the part has not arrived and we unfortunately do not have any other parts the same at this time, we offer warranty on used parts of course but for how long....I do not know especially with fragile items such as injetcors. Take a read and see what you think of the latest comments, I love this business and its my passion and my life ( literally ) am I wrong here have we let this guy down? I understand the frustration of zed owners of course I do I own one myself but sometimes the give and take of business some times seems unbalanced with us often giving a hell of a lot more...any way read and tell me your thoughts, no adgenda just real feed back would help Regards all Jeff TT Posted by d??? Hi Jeff , its D??? from Grimsby, got a problem with one cylider not firing, have put new plugs in, changed coil packs around and still not firing on the cylinder nearest bulkhead drivers side. I can hear a click from the injector but maybe not as loud as the other 5, have got a spark on that plug. When I removed the plug from that cylinder to check I couldn't smell petrol on it , would all this point to a duff injector? would you recommend trying a second hand injector? if so do you have one in stock and how much please. Car is a 1990 non turbo. Regards d??? Hi D??? Very possible you have a faulty injector, but to be sure you need to test the resistance of the injector a good reading is around 12 to 14 Ohms. We do have them in stock £35+vat let me know how you get on. Jeff some time later Hi Jeff, Have you got another injector? the one you sent a couple of months ago has failed. Should I be looking at anything else as to why or is it just one of those things? It replaced the original that failed on the same cylinder. Regards D???. Hi D???, Yes we have more no worries, however as you suggest is practically unheard of for a second injector to fail on the same cylinder with out some other issue been the cause. Maybe a problem with the ECU output voltage or duty placing the injector under excesive load on that cylinder, of course could be a complete coincidence but as its a pain for you to change it again I would be checking all the cables back to the ecu as well as the ecu output itself, also check the alternator voltage when running, have you had any issues with bulbs at all? Remind me of your address. Regards Jeff Jeff, maybe a coincidence but the original injector failed about two and a half months after the ECU upgrade, and the one you sent has now also failed after about two and a half months. use of car is about the same this part of the year. Have you had any probs with ECU upgrades before? As I say it may just be a coincidence. Will try to check wiring and outputs as best as can. Regards D??? Hi D??? No cannot say we have had any issue with ecu`s after chipping more than happy to send you another injector though so try that and if the problem returns let me know. Jeff Hi Jeff , have you sent out the replacement injector yet? Regards D??? PS, its for a non turbo. Regards D??? Ok all good. Jeff Hi Jeff, can you confirm the replacement injector has been sent, as it is not here yet. Regards D???. Hi D??? Can confirm the original one did get sent out and was by normal post not couriier as I thought, I have taken a look in our stores and unfortunately we do not have any more non turbo`s injectors at the moment, hopefully the replacement will turn up soon. Cheers Jeff Jeff, the post has been today and still no sign of the replacement injector, if you havent sent one and don't intend to either at least be honest and say so. My car has been sat there for nearly 2 weeks now waiting for the injector. As I have said before I do suspect the chip fitted by you is a possible cause of the injector failing and I feel a bit let down with your attitude over this. Regards D???

As Mark said the torque convertor needs fitting to the box before installation back into the car, one point though, when fitting the torque convertor in the box it has to be installed in a certain way as there are 3 location stages inside of the torque convertor which are very distinctive and can be felt and heard. Locate on to gearbox input shaft and push into the gearbox, now push with medium force and rotate the convertor it should after a turn or so click once and go onto the shaft a little more, again repeat turning the convertor until it clicks again and goes onto the shaft again, and one more final turn and wait for the click again. Remember there are 3 distictive clicks and movement onto the shaft, the torque convertor should now be all the way in and your ready to fit the box the the car, sometimes it can take more than a few turns for the clicks to occur, this can be effected by how much fluid it in the convertor etc. but do not worry keep turning and it will click in. Hope that helps Jeff

The side bracket ( bell housing to engine ) on the passenger side is unbolted 2 x 14mm bolts, remove the lower bellhousing bolts so the sheild can be pulled out and then the four 14mm bolts are revealed, hold the crank with a 27mm socket and ratchet on one hand and undo the 14mm torque convertor bolts with the other. If you plan on removing it now you may want to support it somehow as its quite heavy and will be half full of fluid. Jeff TT

Well done for your efforts but would have been a lot easier to have removed the torque convertor with the autobox and less strain on the front shaft too. Jeff

Yes its the most scarey moment when you think your engine is done eh? least of all after a long time off the road. If you can not easily see any pipe issues you will need to pressurise the system via a boost leak adapter and a compressor, if you get stuck we are not that far from you at the very least find the leak for you, that way you can get down and dirty to sort it out, one point, if it is a boost leak then its easier to drive with the air flow meter disconnected, your limited to a 2500 (ish) rev limit but that equated to 50mph + in top gear. Jeff

Blown a pipe off, causing massive boost leak. Check the intercooler pipes, favourite when giving it some beans. Jeff TT

Mmm....that was IN our workshop Tuesday :whistling: Jeff TT

Totally agree, HID all the way. Jeff TT

Be aware of missing conversion data that leads to corruption and can give incorrect readings, rare to see a cheap convertor work 100% correctly, hope your is though. Jeff TT

With engine at idle the gauge should sit way over to the left of the zero point, when on a light throttle at around 30mph on flat road should sit close to zero, when you boot it of course it should go over to + boost. What you need to establish is if the gauge is the problem or there is in fact a problem with the actual boost pressure. If there was any issue with either turbo the gauge will still work at idle and light throttle, the only issue would be with + boost, if however the gauge, sender or pipework to the sender had an issue the gauge would be stuck at zero all of the time, this can also happen if the gauge pipework has been mixed up but this would have been a problem you would have noticed previously unless some work has been done in that area recently? and of course I have to ask does it feel like your getting + boost should be able to tell really. Jeff TT

As you all aware Nissan keep on implimenting bizare prize increases for zed spares, we tend to buy in bulk due to this to protect us and customers, however even we cannot avoid the increases eventually, today we received our normal stock order to find water temp senors have just had an increase from £23.42 to £49.07 !!!!!!!!!!!!!! each.....flipping ridiculous after the Vat is added thats £58.88, what the hell are Nissan thinking?? Jeff TT

New laptops use usb connections where as older models used serial ports or a combination of both, most scan cables use serial connectors and as in most cases usb to serial convertors do not work the only way around it is to buy an old laptop just for using the scanner with, ebay is good for this, get one for around £50 does not need to be anything fancy just to have the correct serial port. Jeff TT

It will be one of the door flap actuators, they motor open and when they get to the end of travel they are designed to cut out, however the the cut out or limiting device stops working so the motor keeps on trying to close or open the offending door flap or heat mixing duct and that is the noise, unfortunately the whole dash needs removing to access the heater box and the motor actuators, of course before removing the dash you need to work out which one it is first. Jeff

Ok what I think is causing you a problem is the later year of your car, the later cas unit and ecu has a different ignition map that does show 5 deg tdc readings when up to temp, sound like the neutral switch is fine and working correctly so no worries there. What to do is to is to check the timing when the engine is cold, be patient and as the engine warms up slowly when its around 60c to 65c the timing should be around the 15 deg mark then confirm this with a timing light, if it needs adjusting then be quick as once warmed up it will go to the sub map of 5 deg tdc If you have a full ConZult system you can set the engine temp to 65c deg and make the adjustments at ease then. The later engines had a few things removed by Nissan like the egr valve and the pvr system etc so the altered mapping / timing was part of this. Hope that helps Jeff

Before you commit to changing the cables check out this link first as it is rarely the cables. Jeff http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=150596&highlight=handbrake+adjust+tech+thread

Providing all other areas like tps, throttle balance and you use good quality fuel there is no issue running 17deg advance on a non turbo, in fact it will give a slight increase in drivability etc. Jeff TT

Only ever use the coil pack method, had a few odd ball results using the ptu loop. Jeff

This is what you need, ebay matey. Jeff

Yes no worries as there is no load on the engine. Jeff

Same thing, bush / ball joint, forgot to say before there is a cone shaped adapter that has to be transfered from the old ball joint. Jeff

Bottom ball joint is available, have changed many of them, once the ball is disconnected its a case of releasing a snap ring and out ot comes, refit the new one and the new snap ring, works out a hell of a lot cheaper than changing the lower arm as they are something silly like £200 but the bushes are around £30 to £35 Jeff TT

The idle control valve at the back of the engine passenger side has a screw you adjust, look over the top of the battery from the passenger wing and you should be looking at it, the base idle screw is turned clockwise to lower the tick over and anticlock wise to raise the tick over, lbefore doing this however you will need to unplug the yellow electrical connector on the top of it, after setting is done plug it back in, if you have a ConZult though no need to unplug the sensor, use the idle adjust screen to disable it whilst adjusting, will take some pics and add them to this. Jeff

There you go spooky eh? Jeff

Having seen a few threads asking how to use a timing light on your zeds and what type of light I took a few pics today to show this and how easy it is. So starting with the light type, the Draper one shown here is an induction xenon light, prices range from £20 to £40 so well worth looking around Ebay is the best place. The unit is designed to collect its trigger signal from HT leads via the clamp sensor, of course our zeds use direct coil packs so there are no plug leads, but no worries as the coil packs emit emf (electric magnetic fields / force ) each time they trigger and the timing light sensor can pick up this and use it to flash the xenon light at the correct time, however the sensor jaw must be open so here you can see a cable tie is used to keep it apart. So now the easy bit, the induction sensor sits really nice in the coil pack well, make sure the silver sticker is facing forward as its more sensative this way around Hooking up the light to the battery, connect the red clip to the 12v live terminal and the black clip to the plenum earth point this we find gives a cleaner supply ( electronic wise ) and hence a brighter consitant flash. So we know the correct timing is 15 deg tdc this of course is at normal operating temperature, below the picture shows the light been pointed at the crank pulley where the timing marks can be seen, in the picture the engine was NOT up to temp and hence is showing an advance of timing, this is normal and will reduce as the engine warms up. So if any adjustments are needed the cas unit (crank angle sensor ) will need the three 10 mm bolts slacking off and the unit rotating either right to retard or to the left to advance, once correct lock them up and your done, occassionally after the timing has been adjusted the tick over may need trimming, the timing been correct is essential to get the best prerformance and best mpg. Jeff TT

The clutch plate has a solid centre which means no compliance when the drive is taken up, may be great for doing drag lauches on a track but pulling away in traffic may well be tiresome with jerking and stalling an issue, price looks good on both parts though. Jeff TT