chayden

No worries mate - all use newbies can learn from each of our problems (unfortunately)

Hi Legrath - I was told by a Nissan mechanic that unless the gearbox oil was changed on the button at the required service intervals, changing it at a later stage can cause "whirling/noise". If this happens it can't be sorted with subsequent oil changes. Based on the 2k or so miles, I would do in it, he advised against it. Does that make sense? Regards, Colm

OMG - its bloody awful Don't know whether to :rofl: or :cry:

Guys - starting to develop an issue getting car into reverse. Happens occassionally. It can be difficult to select reverse. Sometimes I have to put it into 5th when its stationary and then down to reverse, which always works. I was watching "The Garage" one night and there was a similar problem on a Golf or something and it was put down to a bush on top of the gearbox which needed replacing. (Yes - I am trying to learn and the information provided on the garage suits my near total lack of knowledge ;) ) Has anybody experienced a similar problem and what was the remedy? Cheers Colm

Peter24a : I checked out the link and you are actually right with the €2483 importation cost. :o I did comment without doublechecking its current importation price. I paid €1600 for mine on the last day of the "old system" which was the 30th of June. Based on the changes that were being introduced it would have meant an increase of €320 (€1600/30 x 36) VRT changed from 30% to 36%. Therefore I guess Revenue increased the value of the cars. I didn't think I was being unfair, as if you advertise about the top end of the engine being done, then I think you should know what you are on about. I just didn't believe that the lad really knew anything about the car. From memory I believed I asked who did the rebuild and he didn't know. I am absolutely no expert and am prone to asking a few silly questions myself. I'll tell you one thing though, I'm learning big time with the help and knowledge of this club. Regarding the swb / lwb question. I specifically waited for a manual, SWB, slicktop to come available. Like EDK83 said they are harder to come by, lighter and handle better especially the slicktops. In my opinion due to this fact they get better prices. The only thing that I would say on the flipside is that the SWB imports from Japan were more likely to be thrashed for those very same reasons. My posts are starting to seem like essays - sorry

Hi there, is this the black one for sale in Mayo? From memory he was asking around €7k? I enquired about it a few weeks back, and if its the same one, the lad that owns it doesn't know a lot about it or the 300zx in general, never heard of Hicas and other things when I asked him. Didn't really know about the engine work either. Also he said that the VRT cost €2600 or something like that, which couldn't be true. VRT for me before the price increase in July was around €1600. Add on the increase and it should be near €1900 and not €2600. Check out the revenue website yourself for the correct amount https://www.ros.ie/VRTEnquiryServlet/ShowVRT When I heard the VRT amount, I lost interest, cause when the first statement wasn't correct, I didn't think I could rely on anything else that was said. I bought one in June and to be honest, I had decided on it before I ever saw it because it was the exact model that I wanted. In essense I was blinded by the excitement. Result is it has cost me around €1,000 more to get right than I had budgeted for. My advise would be to look at it by all means, but walk away if even from a negotiating point. If its the one I'm referring to, its a lwb. Have a look at the cars that are for sale through the club members here. Pay a little more if you have to over what the likes of that one is for sale for. The people on here know their vehicles inside out, and most really really look after them. You would benefit from the attention these cars have received and the countless £'000's spent improving and modifying them. Remember sterling is plummeting at present, which would compensate for the cost of the ferry across with it. Just my thoughts, and I wish you luck with what ever you decide. :) Regards, Colm

The Idle Control Valve is located on the passenger side of the engine bay and is bolted to the back of the plenum next to the battery. It has a yellow connector on top.

Hi Andy, My advice would be to buy one from a club member / enthusiast and pay the extra few quid. In general you will be getting a well looked after car. In my instance I was looking for a specific model and being in Ireland it took a while for it to come up and it was quite cheap. The engine and gearbox are perfect, but there were a lot of other things that needed work, that I didn't notice at the time. My heart ruled my head and deep down, I had decided to buy it before I ever saw it. Do I regret buying it - no, but if it was again, I would wait till one came up for sale through this club or other Nissan clubs from a member who knew how to look after it. From a parts point of view, any new Nissan parts that I would need, I would get them through Mike of MJP auto's who trades here and I save a fortune over the Irish Nissan dealers. There are loads of 2nd hand parts through the board or Paul at SWZ parts who also trades. In comparison to the parts for my BMW's, the Nissan gear is relatively cheap. All in all, in my opinion, if you buy the right machine it won't cost a fortune to maintain.

Thanks guys

Thanks guys. It looks fairly ok with the LWB wide body in Pauls pic.

Doing my planning for next 6 months with what I'd like to do with my Zed. I love the 99 spec rear spoiler like the one FunkySi has, but have never seen an image of one on a wide bodied SWB Zed. Question is, has anybody? If you have do the lines look right with it. Any image would be much appreciated. Below is a link to a page that shows a nice shortie with wide body but a different rear spoiler (first car on the page): http://mnsportcompacts.net/forum/showthread.php?t=63958&page=3 How would a 99spec rear spoiler look on it?

Of course I did - its under the passenger seat. Took ages to find ..... :tongue: :rofl:

Thanks guys... never thought of looking under the scuttle panel :o

Can somebody let me know where the windscreen wiper motor is located? I cannot seem to find it in the engine bay area. Its probably infront of my eyes, but just cant see it. Cheers, Colm

Hi Gary, I actually bought mine up North a few months back. It was from a guy up close to Ballymoney. There aren't many down here either. Colm

The ECU was reset and cam connections cleaned after the replacement MAF was installed. Result - Drives perfectly, smooth and powerful.:hyper: Thanks to everybody who gave me pointers.

Try Paul in SWZ Parts. I got mine for £40 delivered with some other parts and that was for the window motor and also the regulator. If turned out that luckily I didn't have to install the replacement motor and frame, just the regulator. Its the small black plastic box in the door that may just need changing.

I replaced the MAF (2nd hand one from Paul in SWZ parts) and there was definitely an issue with the old one. The car no longer cuts out so I can drive it. Rev it in neutral and no issue. However when driving it still can splutter and can backfire as you go through the rev range. I had changed the PTU to a series II but should I have done anything else. I see mentioned on other posts about resetting the ECU. Would that have been necessary, cause if it is I didn't do it.

I agree, ask Mike for a quote in MJP auto. I saved roughly 40% over Irish Nissan equipment for the same stuff and in all honesty, it arrived quicker than it would locally

Went out there tonight to try cleaning the CAS, PTU etc but when I tried to start it, it wouldn't. So that gave me the chance to remove the slam panel and disconnect the MAF. Once I did that - hey presto -it started immediately. I guess that means that the MAF is the problem so I better get a replacement. I couldn't imagine the issue being the wiring back to the management system, because would it not cause problems even with the MAF disconnected? Question rather than statement there guys...... And by the way, thanks again to all who have tried to help me out with advise and suggestions.

Thanks to all who have given me some direction and suggestions so far. Just to clarify - I do have power if I accelerate very very slowly through 3000rpm and can go above it. For some reason on normal driving when I approach that magic 3k rpm power drops, splutters etc.. Only thing at any stage it can cut out. If it cuts out when driving and I leave it in gear without clutching it can start again being a manual and has done so. The car is idling high at present around 1200rpm or higher when started initially but after a drive drops below 1000rpm. When I disconnected the MAF sensor and started it the idle rev sat at approximately 1000rpm. I'll have another check on the connections CAS, PTU, MAF sensor, temp sensor etc.. Never did mechanics but by GOD this old Zed will make me learn quite quickly..

I'll check that . It must be something fairly simple as it was perfect before I got the service done and the belts changed. Thanks, Colm

Ok guys, I disconnected the MAF sensor, checked it for corrosion, dirt, grim etc but it was clean as a whistle. Put it back and tried the car again, this time revving in neutral. Same thing happened - cut out. When I tried to start it again, it took an age, but for a split second before she finally started, I could here something start to make a sound (pump perhaps?), the light for the engine in orange went off in the dash and it started. The fact that the MAF sensor is clean doesn't mean that it isn't dodgy. I'll get an automotive electrician to check it. I did run the engine with the MAF sensor disconnected and the car wouldn't rev above approximately 2600rpm. Incidentally I never had this problem before I got the car serviced. It is getting worse though. Perhaps the timing is coincidental. Any other suggestions?:confused:

Thanks Legrath and Trebor, I'll check that out and report back. Cheers Colm

Where is the MAF located and I'll have a look and check? Not a mechanic, so forgive this question if it sounds silly.