Smithy

Fot the most common bumpers, the stock ducts can be very easily cut/altered to suit and certainly the WW one is easy to do. It's when trying to get your ducts to suit some of the larger and taller intercoolers, problems arise and require making your own, which again isn't hard. But no, no one sells ducts to suit specific bumpers am aware of. smithy

Chip wouldn't change owt like that mate. Fan is obviously thinking the car is going to overheat (beyond 100 degrees!) for some reason. From what's happend you may have an electrical problem somewhere either with the Aircon or in relation to engine temperature. smithy

Dunno if it's the best way, cos i just have Zedworld do my stuff, :p but if i was home i'd park her up on a steepish slope and release the air vent plug ontop of the rad. This should release any air in teh same way a house radiator does. Run it and add water slowly through this vent until yer happy. cheers smithy

Only things you've got there to increase power are the induction kit, zorst, decatts and the Hybrid T25's, i'd estimate around 330bhp. An ECU chip would benefit these mods as would a decent boost controller. smithy

Deffo something wrong, spec is not dis similar to mine and certainly teh same Howe rad. I constantly run approx 76 - 79 degrees and going up to a max of 82 on real warm days and slow traffic. Though i don't have the Zcentre electric fan, if i did, it shouldn't even really be used. Thermostat or air lock in system perhaps, easier to check the latter first before going to the hassle of changing the stat. smithy

Glad yer got it sorted mate and yep as said earlier excess fuel was being pumped incase of overheating which is what cause the fan to come on at times. well done and poor ole finger dohhhhh smithy

Ah not good mate. Can't think why it's getting power with no key turned, it has an "overrun" built into i think so it carries on running cooling the rad down after overheating, but am not a 100% on that. If so, it could explain why it's getting power with no key. Have a read of this link mate, too much for me, lol http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/auxfan/auxfan.html smithy

So no igintion on, no key in the barrel etc the fan is always on ? ta smithy

Sorry mate it ain't that cos you got a warning light on. just going back one post, did you say as you connected the ECU the fan came on ?? was the ignition turned off whilst you were doing this ? smithy

Strange it takes 30 seconds to go wrong, but certainly it's an ECU prob IMO mate. As i said if someone local with a Zed would pop by and just whack their ECU for 2 mins would 100% prove this. smithy

Okay now we know the electric sub fan is coming on and you have an engine check light, you have an ECU problem IMO. Either it needs re fitting properly or am afraid the chip has fried, the only way to know the latter is to whack another ECU in, fan should stop and light goes out. The reason you can't boot is cos it's in safety mode and also dumping excess fuel in the system. IF you didn't have a warning light, it would then point to a faulty temp connector on your inlet water pipe. hth smithy

Okay, it all seems like the chip has died to me. Can you go out to the car, turn the ignition on and then go and put your ear near the front number plate, is that where you can hear the wurring noise for the fan ? if so, start the car and you should see the viscous fan running, now put your ear to the front of car again and you should also hear an electric wurring sound as before ?. Finally with engine running, are there any dash board warning lights on ? Oh and have you got an aftermarket vent in your bonnet ? smithy

Can you confirm by fan you mean the electric one in front of Rad ? and just 1 warning light or is there more ? smithy

Jap/Uk doesn't matter in either car. Only after series 4 or 5 the ECU changes so much that can't be used in earlier models. No real advantage to running a manual ECU in an old ex Auto car, however they cost peanuts these days, so you could if you wanted. smithy

The 1650 is fully inclusive of new Nissan parts, full new clutch unit and new propshaft bearing. It is also inclusive of VAT, it's an error on the website :cool: smithy

The PTU you bought of luke, was it a new one (black plastic face) or a second hand one (grey ribbed metal face) if the latter then yep could be at fault, if it's the former then i would expect it's not. I know on my own from the odd rare time to time i suffer something very similar and it's the connectors going to the coil packs, a little tug and pull and she's all good again. You can buy injector and coil pack replacement short looms for quite cheap money, now could be the time to do this ( any garage or diy can do) if taht works then great, if not it is still good to have these done as the oldies are failing all the time. Oh doubt it's the CAS, usually when that fails no injectors will fire and car cuts out or simply won't start. cheers smithy

Well heres one such gauge, but deffo there are more out there and yep probe would have to be just before TB's. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ATM%2D4372 cheers smithy

I don't suspose by any chance your car has been dynoed so we can eliminate the "do they or don't they work" Jimmy ? When you eventually do, it's intake charge temps you should be looking for as much as BHP. What makes you think a guy in Aussie designed these ? I know of a guy over there who sold shit loads of massive SMIC'S, however they were just imported and not from the US. The Godpseed ones are available direct from Godspeed and cheaper too, i would suggest each box comes with a free set of chopsticks in it :) I don't honestly think the world will ever know who is actually making the ebay/godpseed coolers one way or another. Personally i wouldn't, but thats just me, lol Oh btw, the ebay ad you bought from, the pics of the coolers are not only the same as Godpseed, but Godpseeds actual pics. smithy

Yup sure will :cool: smithy

Okay, i noticed before you said Scott gapped these, they should already be pre gapped and ready for fitting. Am thinking that if the car is perfectly alright except on boost, possibly a plug or coil pack is breaking down. The PTU when warm/hot fails most and reduces the voltage to one or more coils. If your happy the car runs well except this, why not when time allows take a trip to see a Zed specialst who knows what all snesors/connectors etc should be doing and when. Knwon guys here to spend days/weeks trying to solve a niggly problem which has then quickly spotted by a specialst easily. smithy

What plugs did you fit Jimmy ? smithy

Before you fiddle with owt that could make it worse mate, the link posted above to Legrath's old thread, is actually a very common problem. So whilst your tinkering around, simply lift the accelerator linkage back with your fingers or screwdriver and see if it comes any where near the 2 breather pipes pictured OR wiggle the pipes in your fingers, if they move easy, thats highly probable what it is. Oh and easily fixed with a wee bit of silicone. smithy

If you have the likes of Dannys hard pipe kit (stainless) then the inners are 63mm O/D and the outer pipes are 51mm O/D thats the actual pipe sizes, for silicone couplers these would be the Inner diameter sizes. Smithy

Okay then, with no lights and fan on all the time, it can't be in limp mode. The guy who i know is neaer you hasn't been on since June, so that's out. Zedworld in Tamworth is what 45 mins from you ? if you think you can drive that far then it would save all the messing around and maybe save getting worse ? Oh has the car got aftermarket dump valves on ? smithy

This is getting all confusing now mate, so to start a fresh so we can work things out, when you last drove the car did you get lots of smoke coming out of the zorsts ? did the car stall at halt signs etc ? these indicate a major boost leak. If you unplugged the MAF and the symtoms remained entirely the same, then that generally indicates the MAF is faulty. Have you any other symptoms, like warning lights constantly lit up on the dash or is the electric sub fan constantly on when the ignituion is on or engine running ? if not, then it's not in limp mode and indicates a duff MAF. there is another member quite close to you, will see if i can see when he was last on. smithy