Shahid

You might want to consider 3G disks http://www.3gbrakes.co.uk and Porterfield pads http://www.porterfield-brakes.com combo. Very pleased with mine, not very expensive and good quality/durability. Shahid

LOL. I've dropped Andy to the Airport from his house and it's definately less than 10 mins, if you know the way ;).

Sounds good, should be able to make it. Shahid

DTA device seems to have some sexy functionality. However, with my current setup and state of tune, some of it may be OTT or surplus to requirement. With your setup Iain, I have no doubt you'll be using every bit of the kit! What's the cost anyway and are SE mapping it for you? Interested to know how you get on. Baggins, I think you're right mate, I too feel a trial coming on but whose gonna be the guinea pig? Due to visit Thor in a couple of weeks, so will discuss further. Shahid

Thor quoted £650 incl. for the unit + 3-4 hours set up. Delivery time 2-3 weeks. Only prob is that they havn't fitted it to a Zed yet, so no history or experience to go by. I've seen quite a lot of positive feedback on the New Zealand & Australian 300ZX forums concerning the Link and seems like a good alternative to a custom RR chip setup. There's another dealer in London and he's quoting £695 but can't/won't set up :rolleyes: . Pambos - I think the correct link is http://www.microtechefi.com. Looks like a similar product to the Link but will look in to it properly later. Can you give us some guidance on it's advantage over the Link, cost and ease od setup? Cheerz Shahid

http://www.link-electro.co.nz http://www.link-electro.co.nz/lem.html Anyone have any experience of this device? Appears to be a direct replacement of the factory ECU and is ditributed by Thor. They speak highly of it's installation, tuning abilty and performance to custom control fuel, ignition, boost etc. Seems functionalilty is considerably more than a custom chip. Shahid

Should be there on Sat. Does the club have a stand? Shahid

And me too plse Garry, if poss. Liked the idea at Japfest. Cheerz

I phoned them on Wed evening and the UPS parcel arrived Friday morning. My experience is that an email order is a bit hit and miss and that a phone order is quicker and confirms stock availability.

Yes mate. :dance: One O2 sensor was completeley knackered so replaced both. (Very cheap from Courtesy with the current strong pound) :) . Fuel economy is a little better but the car pulls a lot better and smoother at low revs. As Mike and Vijay suggested, I did have a boost leak and I didn't appreciate what a huge impact that has on performance and general running. Also, the internals of one of my back boxes was completely gone. Thanks to Pete at SE for sorting it all out. How's your car with the new turbos?

OK - tried Vijay's suggestion but still no luck and still getting the codes. Anymore ideas or recommendations please?

Don't know if you tried Lifesure (0870 366 1235)? They're happy to quote for imports, second car/classic policy, mods and agreed value to 10K subject to an independent valuation.

Cheers Vijay - will look in to this tonight. Are there any tell tale signs to confirm correct connection?

During the past few days, my car's been running a little jerky at low revs and not pulling as before at the higher end. Ran diagnostic today and the ECU threw up codes 33 and 34 :( . Unplugged and cleaned the O2 and det connectors and reset the ECU but the codes are still there. Warmed and ran the engine at 2000RPM for a few mins in Mode II and the LED didn't flash at all, indicating exhaust gas is lean on the left side sensor, I guess. Right side sensor flashed 5 times, so I guess all is well on this side. Didn't try any voltage readings, as I haven't got the equipment or the know-how. So what do I do next, short of buying and fitting new sensors? Just prior to the problem, I had my boost controller replumbed by SE and am not sure if this has anything to do with it. Pete did think that I might have a minor intake leak on the driver's side that would need further exploring. Again, I'm wondering whether this may also effect the O2 sensor readings. Still waiting for Pete to return my call.....will try again tomorrow. In the meantime, any ideas and comments will be much appreciated.

Got mine from Z Centre.

That's exactly what I thought Deon. But surprisingly, he was complimentary about the Zed at the show!!!

What's the sudden interest from Topgear? Had some free tickets to see the MPH 2003 show at Earls Court today hosted by the Topgear/5th gear team. Some very nice cars on display and the ONLY Jap cars on show - a 900BHP Skyline, a 200+BHP Micra and a few 350Z's. Old Clarkson also paraded the entire Zed range from the early 200's through to the current 350, including our beloved 300ZX:) Like I said, not sure why the current interest, but nice to the see the ZED receiving some attention.

Gotta echo Richard's comments, Stu. Unbelievable the amount of damage the van driver caused during bloody parking manoeuvre! Hopefully insurance will be straightforward and things get sorted quickly for you mate.

Thought I’d share my experience. Problem: The dreaded vibration throughout the car at anything above 30mph. Tried the obvious and cheap solutions by having wheels balanced and new gearbox mount fitted. No success. Forum search suggested centre bearing but my vibrations didn’t stop at 50-60 mph, as suggested, but continued to increase in severity as the speed increased. My mechanic and I did an external visual inspection of the propshaft and bearing, but all seemed well. Despite this, I purchased a new centre bearing but when the mechanic opened the propshaft to fit it, he immediately informed me that there was nothing wrong with my centre bearing. However, the universal joints didn’t look too healthy. Damn I thought – 800 quid for a new one or at least 200 for a 2nd hand one, without a guarantee on the condition of its internals. Further searches revealed a few companies that repaired and reconditioned props. After calling all of them, I felt comfortable with Driveshaft Sercices Ltd (http://www.driveshaftservices.co.uk). The guy was very helpful, knew the Zed and described the symptoms before I’d fully explained them. So what did he have to offer? Basically, he would replace the UJ’s with serviceable ones, install my new centre bearing and rebalance the prop. The price? £125+VAT+£25 courier collection and return. So off it went on Mon and was returned on Wed, as promised. And the result after fitting it back.............................. UN-BLOODY-BELEIVABLE. The vibrations completely gone, the car revs far more freely and feels lighter and quieter. Before it felt as if the engine wanted to hold back at 5000RPM but now it’s eager to go all the way to the red line. Very happy indeed!!! Sorry to have gone on, particularly to those who are already aware of this possible remedy. Those that aren’t, it’s another thing to explore for a common problem on our cars.

I've actually replaced the temp sensor, thinking that the old one might be a bit dodgy. TBH, the rev's have been high since I bought the car in July. I thought the problem would disappear following a full 60K service, new engine wiring loom and head gasket, but it hasn't. Engine mods include new turbo's, intake, decat exhaust, oil cooler and boost controller. But as I said, the problem existed before any of these and is still there. Other than the rev's, the car runs fine and I don't know what the cause is :( . Do you guys think that Conzult may help? Thanks for the input.

Pretty sure the speedo's OK because when I'm doing say, 30mph, the id indicates 12mph. There's just too much of a variance and I know I'm definitely not doing 12mph.

Hi Stuart Got a similar prob. Drive the car at a steady 25mph, hit the enter key on the id and it accepts without a calibration error. However, immediately after calibration, the speed reading on the id is significantly less than the speedo. In other words, it doesn't appear to be correctly calibrating. Would be interested to learn of your experience whilst I continue to play with it at the weekend. Shahid

Rev's are a constant 1500 RPM, regardless of the engine being hot or cold. Searching the previous posts, have checked the TB's, TPS, temp sensor, IAA unit and valves, air regulator, ECU reset but without success. Any ideas on anything else I can try to reduce the revs to a more respectable level? Thanks

Certainly is - bought one off AndyZ a few weeks ago.

Cheers Vijay!