aberry

Thinking about it, where does one get one of these in the UK? Or is it import from US?

I read that they were up high & sufficient but prone to twisting. I'm not much over stock bhp so not an issue, but it looks like the high hp boys are going for the steel variant.

Thanks for the tips, really helpful. Will give these a whirl.

Anyone got any experience of replacing their stock driveshaft with a 1-piece alluminium?

And that just goes to show that I should have asked before I did anything! Thanks fella. Btw, one of the tie rods was completely shot, so it would still be good to know how to get that thing to move freely so I can mark it in place before replacement. :)

Howdy folks, Here's the thing, the local garage quoted something ridiculous for changing a single split steering rack gaitor, so I thought, how hard can it be, I'll do it myself. I'll cut to the chase; managed to get the old tie rods off, which were shot anyway, so replaced with new, but couldn't get that damn retaining nut to move on one side, which of course, just happened to be the side that failed the MOT. Ended up prising the rubber gaiter over it, which wasn't all that fun either. Anyway, just curious, since most peeps on here have far more experience doing this than I do, how would you free this stead fast nut? Anyway, what made it worse, is that I couldn't get the replacement tie rod to screw on close enough to the retaining nut, about 1cm out, and then, when it was really stuck in place, the ruddy nut decides to play ball and free up. Anyway, this left the steering way way off. Took it for re-tracking and they fixed it for a tiny sum, just curious what others would have done that would have made life easier? Alex

The smoking became pronounce on mine when I had the mongoose put on, and since that's a cat back only, does that change the back pressure much as well?

I've also had this problem for quite some time. I've still got the cats fitted, with a mongoose quad and it's only noticeable on idle. Both Jeff & Silverbullet have seen it and both concluded (several times I might add) that it's the turbo oil seals. The smoke colour fluctuates a bit gray/blue and some days nothing out the back at all, it's only if I sit in traffic for about 5mins does it start. The build up is on low rpm/idle, at any other rpm its gets blown out right. In other words, the seal is leaking all the time, just less visible at higher rpm's. Mine is unnoticeable after a blast, but I can't keep blasting after sitting in traffic - think it's time to get them sorted proper. It looks like the culprit is the left/px side, and I understand that could be replaced with the engine still in. Thinking about it, a car with 90k miles on it, should probably have them both done anyway right?

Just been diagnosed with chronic upper link disease. Is it worth replacing just the bushes, go adjustable or fit good seconds? Had the front brakes sorted and cured one set of problems, now these links ... anyone got a top set for sale? Thanks, Alex

yep, bog standard

Hhhmm, didn't know that, but comes to think of it, it does make sense. I suppose a separate switch could be put in but I kind of think it's just a waste of time. It passes the MOT and the fogs work when needed - not that they are ever used and if they are put on, they will function as desired. Interesting that no MOT joint has picked this up even the one who originally failed it for not having a rear fog and then passed it after it was done. Do you think that's just there interpretation of legality? ;)

Btw, I think the last chap said something about the steering wheel not being on straight, which sounded like a dose of b.s. to me. Here's the last wheel alignment report. Alex

Just looked and it was last aligned in Sep09 when adjustable tension rods were fitted, so perhaps you're right and a sensible first step. I'll get it done. Anyone recommend a reliable outfit in Berkshire or near by? Thanks for that guys, Alex

The thing is, if I stomp on the brakes and at any speed up to about 70, it brakes pretty much in a straight line. The steering is very light and it has a bit of play. The alignment report suggests it's not out of alignment too. At high speed, it sits straight. At v.low i.e. 3mph it pulls one way or the other. If the alignment was out, wouldn't it pull one way consistently as opposed to varying?

Sure is, it's passed at least 3 MOT's since

It's only just passed the MOT, the only advisory was a passenger side upper link that Zedworld already replaced for me. Other than that, everything was given the ticketeeboo.

It's not the first time I've posted on this, so just wondering what your thoughts are about this ongoing problem. The chaps at Zedworld fitted the driftworks total eliminator bar to get rid of the HICAS and I couldn't be happier with that. BUT the car just won't stay straight like it should. Let me explain - 1. High speed, i.e. fast, touch the brakes and it will snake all over the place, a bit spooky if I'm honest 2. A bit of judder under medium braking 3. At very low speed, it is sometimes pulling left and sometimes right, not a lot, but noticeably, the steering wheels turns by itself i.e. a quarter turn one way or the other Now, all wheels are high speed balanced, tracking done, tyres all good. Rear brakes and discs good. Front discs quite new as are pads. It's an import with 8.5J's all round instead of 7.5Js. I doubt that it is disc warping or uneven pad wear or both and I'm thinking it could be a caliper issue or a steering rack problem. Ring any bells? Anyone know how to tell if the steering rack is u/s or if a caliper is causing problems? Cheers, Alex

I asked the guy who fitted my alarm to wire them up to the front switch.

When you find one, definitely post on the forum to see if it's known. If the peeps at Zedworld know of it, then perhaps they'll know of its condition too.

I agree, it's great to see the price of Z's going up, they are as low as they can go right now and frankly, I think they are worth more - but that's my view.

Where did you get yours?

phutumsch - dude - your reg M117 SMV, my reg, M227 SMV. Last MOT the swines made me change the little number plate, I took it off, then put it back after the MOT and then it just fell off somewhere...so I just put a normal one on. Alex

Not the first time for a thread like this, probably not the last. My lwb has carried plenty of kids and adults, although mostly sub-5'8" in the back. Adults tend to complain if more than 30-60mins (as would I), yet kids are happy as anything. What I think is cool about the lwb is that at least the seats in the back are actually usable - unlike so many other so-called 2+2's. I was looking at getting an old XKR, forget it, so many sports 2+2 rears are useless. Has anyone tried sit in the back of a TT? As for looks, I think the lwb is great, but thinking that the swb can be thrown about more - is that true swb owners? Alex

If the carpets are wet you might also want to remove them and let them dry out. I bypassed a rad on another car I had and found that the misting/condensation problem didn't go away until the carpets/floor pan were bone dry. Just a thought.

When I did mine, I also started out by just spraying and hoping and likewise, it made no difference. I ended up carefully removing the wire gauze and cleaning it properly. I also did the connectors on the side and made sure they were absolutely free of corrosion. If you're going to take the wire gauze off, you might need a little adhesive to put it back, mine is a bit shot, but it doesn't matter as long as it still performs the right function. Just be careful not to push hard on the resistor (or whatever it is) just make sure it's clean, the hard connecting wires are important and ensure it's all dry before putting it back. Failing that, you might want to check the connectors and if you're done that already, you might well indeed be looking for a.n.other MAF :(