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I was "told" this was done at 59k on my car (2yrs ago) when I bought it so didn't get it done. However, I now want the piece of mind and would like the UD pulleys done at the same time. Could anyone recommend a reliable outfit near to Bristol/Portishead or Berkshire? Really wanted to get it up to the Zed centre but logistically it's not great for me. Many thanks, Alex

On my auto TT import, sometimes when I start the car in the morning or even after sitting for an hour or so, if I idle for a while before moving off, it can kick some tail smoke, I think it's quite light/grey colour as opposed to a darkish blue. This doesn't occur if I move off more or less straight away. As I revved yesterday (warm warm) it was smooth as anything to 4500rpm then above this, it sounded like ball bearings rattling around so I came off the accelerator and drove real light for a while. Later on, the nastysound had gone. What are the signs of a turbo or both going? Do these symptoms sound familiar? Thanks, Alex

Great feedback guys. It's a Jap Import with the OEM 7.5J 16" front and rear wheels. It's got worn Bridgestone Potenza's on the rear and 1yr old mid-range on the front, all 225 50's. The rear discs are old, but the front are new. I'm going to replace the brakes lines, new pads and will put new discs on the rear. But was thinking this wobble would most likely befrom the front wheels? It has always been like this since I bought the car 2yrs ago. Could it be a bearing? If so, would that cause a pull to the left? Today, I noticed a slight pull to the right. I keen to try a few things to get it right... Didn't know about the zero unbalance option so will give that a go for sure. The calipers could be at fault, won't really know until I can inspect them. I'll look up the spigot rings and check those too. Could it be anything else? Or should that about cover it? Thanks again, Alex

fyi - I had the rear done and it also cost £200.

Guys, nice one, thanks for that. I presume a buckled wheel or wheels like this wouldn't get noticed during balancing? The wabble isn't from the peddle that's for sure. Hadn't thought about the calipers, so either way, it sounds like I should inspect and overhaul the discs and calipers as necessary and as for the wheels, since I've got 4 identical, I could try swapping back to front to see if it that makes any difference. Jonce, out of interest, what are you planning interior wise? Cheers now, Alex

Forgot to say, yeah, had new stock discs and pads fitted about 8 months back. Someone else also suggested that this could be the problem. I'm not all that impressed with the braking I have to say, it doesn't fill me with confidence. Is it more likely to be disc related than steering or suspension? Thanks for that, decent rotors was on my list, but not so high up. Just don't want to start upgrading until the basics have been dealt with. Cheers now, Alex

Hi all, Wheels balanced, followed by alignment and still she pulls to the left :) and brakes unevenly. What else could it be. New tyres on the front, rear look even. Running on 225/50/16's. Could this be a steering rack issue? Suspension related? The steering wheels predictably shakes at 80mph and nothing has changed since the balancing/alignment last weekend. Any ideas? Thanks, Alex

Thanks JeffTT, 8-bit the only option do you know? Is the JWT still the best way to go in your view? I'm planning to do the following to my Auto TT immediately following a timing belt change, service. Cat-back (possibly blueflame) Intake (JWT pop charger) JWT ECU Upgrade Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley Set HKS ALC II Automatic Line Controller ...in the hope that I'd get the 280hp hitting between 380-400hp. Would a dual intake be any more quiet? Also, thinking about getting a blueflame cat-back, do you happen to know if these are "really" as quiet as stock with an JWT pop charger on? Thanks for your help, Alex

I wonder if anyone can confirm if my ECU is an unmodified stock version off a 1994/95 TT auto? [ATTACH]50391[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]50392[/ATTACH] Also, does anyone know what this setting is on the side of the ECU? [ATTACH]50393[/ATTACH] I'm seriously thinking about changing to a JWT ECU and swap the whole thing out. Is this the way to go or is there a cheaper way that achieves the same outcome? Many thanks, Alex

Thanks Legrath, that makes sense. I don't think I'm up for the decat, so will have to find some alternative to make up the difference. It's really good to hear from others who have done this and are happy with the results. Thanks for sharing it. Alex

Ok Pistol Pete, I might be interested in your blueflame once you've had a decision either way out of groover. If you could pm me images and price if/when you're ready, then that'd be great. Thanks, Alex

Now that's interesting, no other mods except an increase to 14.5psi! Is that a safe thing to do? I mean, that's impressive and err, super low cost compared to taking it to stage III right. For now then, if I assume an auto dash in 6.2s, then I could be looking at 5.3-5.4 for the same increase in boost. Would I seek to up the boost following the ECU upgrade or do I even need to do that to get the benefit? Sounds like the stock injectors are suitable for 14.5psi so I'm wondering where the money is best spent. I think the objective is just to bring my Z up to date with the average 5sec sports car on the road today. The new Audi A5 3.0 diesel is dashing 6.0s (on paper) which impresses. Right now, the buggers are going to get away from me. I didn't want to move a manual because I'm fairly lazy and relatively relaxed. I can't be bothered changing gear all the time - would rather just point and fire. Andy, what extra tranny mods are we talking about? I'd read about a little box of tricks - do you think this is going to help at all? http://www.importpartspro.com/hksalciiauli.html Thanks again, Alex

Thanks for that. Now, let's say the stock auto does the dash in 6.7s (sound about right?). Could you give me some kind of gut feel what I'd be pushing assuming above was done on a good example Z. Would the extra 120hp - assuming no weight loss for now - bring this down to 6.0 flat or a bit less in your view? If the manual tt is at 5.2-5.4 or so, would you est. the same upgrade to be result in 4.5-4.7? The reason I'm asking is because I just can't find any reliable stats, so on the one hand I'm keen to invest in these upgrades (read about the stock auto tt tranny being good for about 400hp) but just wanted some comfort before I start this process. Thanks, again. Alex

If I upgraded a my auto tt to 400hp. I mean, intake, ecu, cat-back, UD pulleys and re-map (and whatever else it takes to find the additional 120hp). Will the auto tt do the 0-60 any quicker? or is it about all round performance? or ? Can't find much that helps confirm what the results will be. Will the top end improve too? or, are these mods only going to remove turbo lag and improve overall responsiveness?? Would appreciate views from those who have done it... Many thanks, Alex

Can anyone recommend a good cat-back exhaust to install as part of an intake, ECU, UD pulley and re-map upgrade? I wanted to get the benefits out of the cat-back but don't want any significant noise over stock if I can help it. Any suggestions for what would work best in terms of a flow/noise balance? Many thanks, Alex

Doh! It's a bit late in the day now - the work has been done and I'm left with the spoiler and wiper motor. I did check ebay at the time and didn't find anything. C'est la vie! I'm left with the spoiler ('95 spec.) in tip-top condition if you're interested in that?

Ok, so a bit more on this. I had new tyres put on the front, the discs and pads were replaced and whilst it made the vibration less significant, it's still significant as soon as she gets to 80mph. Now, when the car gets to 140 (obviousy not me driving) she suffer from rear wind noise (obviously not me). Upon application of the brakes, instant lane swerve! Does that still sound like a steering rack issue? I think it's about time that I got it sorted out... Also, does anyone know whether the 300zx should have inner wheel arches at the rear? If so, how can I get some?! Many thanks.

As it happens, somebody pranged the back bumper and I had this done at the same time as the insurance repair. They filled the hole where the wiper was but 1 month after general day-to-day use, the paint cracked around the hole. I took it back and they fixed it by doing the entire job again. Very happy with the results though. Thank for the responses/advice.

Brand new discs and pads i.e. Thanks for all your comments, much appreciated.

Good advice thanks, no plans to lower it. Will stick her on ramps and have a look see then. If the shuddering is not rack related though, what else could it be?

So, you don't think I need the steering rack bushes as well - whilst I'm at it? http://www.zcentre.co.uk/shop/index.php?cPath=21_42_60

Now that looks more like it, thanks. Looks like something I can do myself too, assuming no special tools needed.

Doing about a ton and any slight pressure on the brakes makes the steering wheel shake/judder and doesn't give me much confidence that the car has great stopping power at that speed. At lower speeds, i.e. 50-60, I'm barely able to notice it and it brakes great. Otherwise, the tracking and balancing are good, normal breaking is good with brand new front discs and pads. Do you think I need one or both of the following? E.S. Front Steering Rack Bushes @ £10+vat Tension rod bushes @ £125+vat Obviously a big difference in price...;) Do you know if they are fairly easy to fit? I mean, would either be a big job? Many thanks...

Doh! Because I was explaining what I wanted to some chap in the shop and he thought it would need the plastic. You are right though, it only needs a red bulb for sure.

Thanks for that. Sounds a bit costly to me. I'll get a quote though because I think it's worth doing