groover

Ive done the targas, there are some metal retaining washers that hold the plastic handle onto the panel, most of the plastic pins will break but you can glue it back in place, covering is easy, i did mine in leather and look great. Most of the panels are easy to do with glue remover once youve peeled the tweed off, the door panels are probably worst as they have a vinyl backing on the tweed. Rather than trying to seperate the vinyl backing from the tweed, just pull it all off and use some ultra thin foam under the new alcantara to give it some padding. There are some tips in the faq section which may help. Good luck

If a car cant see a bright yellow one parked in the road, then i dont see how a couple of little reflectors will make a difference, the other cars headlights will reflect off the chrome tailpipes, brighter than 2 little bits of reflective plastic :rofl: But i see where youre coming from :)

sailed straight through, no advisories. The only thing the examiner pulled me up on was the hazard switch. I have pulled my pods out so many times, testing led conversions that it wouldnt push in to operate, so he let me adjust the switch and passed it. The only other thing i was concerned about was, having no rear reflectors on the rear lights due to having 6 pot venom leds, but didnt say a word :hyper:

Will do John, thanks for the advice:bow:

I have fitted a JD chipped ecu, mapped for the n/a from SWZ, having said that, its probably a general remap chip for the mods i have and could probably do with a proper remap by the man himself at some point. The car has definitely got a bit more grunt with the new ecu, i was just a bit concerned about the pinking. Hopefully i can get on with sorting it now i have an idea. Cheers Graham

I know its not so bad on an N/A, but i dont want to damage anything when i floor it. I have been running on normal unleaded recently just to runaround the town in and only generally put high octane fuel in when i take it for a run on the mainland.

Cheers Legrath, my tps is slightly out, will that make the difference.

Hi bud A common problem with most zeds, most add an aftermarket guage and sender, but you can replace the original i should imagine. Nothing to worry about tho

Hi Guys This post is aimed at those who have done the resistor mod on the det sensor I have an N/A that was recently diagnosed with lazy O2 sensors and dett sensor fault, thanks to topless for the conzult. I have done the resistor mod( resistor courtesy of Sussex Stu), only problem is now i get a slight pinking noise at low speed under load. Any ideas would be appreciated Cheers Graham

mine is on the side facing in, rather than on the top

They did on my prelude, i thought the whole idea was to enable easier parking with the 4 wheel steer, especially at a very slow speed. Hicas must be just a zed thing then and not really full 4 wheel steer.

The rear steering should be visible stationary, if you turn your steering to full lock either way with the engine running, the rear wheels will turn very slightly in the opposite lock. At speed the rear wheels turn the same way as the front. You will not see a big turning difference as you would with the front wheels, only very slight. Alternatively get someone to turn the wheel while you have a look at the rear axle.

From Dan at DTA Why do I need a Series 2 PTU? - As most Zeds in the UK are now approaching 13~17 years of age, various components are prone to failures. The PTU (Power Transistor Unit) is located in a very hot location (on the cam cover) and early models are likely to fail. Symptoms of a failed PTU include an engine that cuts out and won't restart until the engine has cooled down. Another symptom is intermittent misfires on one or more cylinders. When Nissan introduced the Series 3 ZX in 1995 they changed the design of the PTU - it was now more robust and thus less prone to fail.

IIRC think series 2ptu was not introduced until the series 3 car. I know it sounds daft, i will try and dig out the thread which explains.

It sounds like the speedo has had the resistor changed to read in mph, but wont de- restrict the 112mph limit. You will need to get a socketed and chipped ecu, basically means that the standard soldered chip in the ecu which controls everything electrical, will need to be replaced by a chip socket/receptacle to accept a remapped chip. If the speedo was still reading kph then the £20 convertor from ebay would do the trick, but not as reliable as doing it properly with the upgraded ecu route. The convertor tricks the ecu into thinking its going slower than it actually is, but has some effects on power steering in some cases.

Well done Phil, all the best for the future:duffer::duffer:

Hi Steve, all done and ready to wrap :D just need to get them in the post now, sorry for the long wait, but as i said in a previous pm, they were done in 2 days, just the speedo problem hindered the return. You will like them though. Cheers Graham

If you look in the faq section, there is a wiring diagram for the convertor and a translation for the fuse box. If the rest of the gauges are working, its unlikely to be a fuse. Try without the convertor first to see if the speedo works.

Thank you peeps:nana2:

Hi Bud The kph to mph convertor is still required on a speedo with the face reading mph, unless the ecu has been rechipped, it is likely that if its fitted badly, may be the reason why the speedo isnt working. Try disconnecting the convertor and make sure the yello/green wire is refitted to the speedo. The speedo will read in kph, but if the speedo works, you can say that the convertor is gone. It sounds like someone has done a botch job on the dash, the leds wont make any difference to how the guages work. There are no direct replacement leds off the shelf for the pods, but the dash ones can be bought as a direct fit 501 style. Hope this helps

a speaker generally receives 30-40v from the amp depending on power and impedence, 9v DC is not enough to cause any damage whatsoever, being doing it in the sound industry for many years

You can also use a 9v pp3 battery on the terminals to check if the basket moves. +to+ -to- the basket will push forward/up as it should. Also using both hands equally around the basket, push in gently, it should move freely with no noises or scratching. Remember a speaker receives voltage from the amp in order to work, it may have had a voltage spike which would have fried the basket, it sometimes happens so quickly that you wouldnt smell any burning. If the wires to the basket are intact and still no luck then its dead.

I dont know what your talking about Paul;)

:bow::bow: Many thanks guys, i will do my best and thank you for the nomination. Cheers Graham

Happy birthday Isaac, have a good one