groover

Hi Bud, Its not acceptable to do it that way unfortunately, firstly , the thread would be removed before you got to the payment stage so you wont be able to sell without subscribing. Paypal is not the only way of making a payment to subscribe. You can do a bank transfer or even quicker, pay in cash straight to the club account. The details are in the link below, its Lloyds/TSB IIRC http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=82551 Its always best to ask first though. Best of luck Graham

pmsl Placing tights on the rear lights gave the effect of being tinted lol. I should imagine:smash::smash:

Ditto, one month before my 40th, the other bonus of being older is the insurance is cheaper :hyper:

Youve got to look at the zed as a big boys toy, that brings fun and enjoyment to your life. :hyper: Ok we all spend more on it than its ever going to be worth in monetary terms, but its our pride and joy and if you makes you happy then great. I never entered into zeddom thinking "this might be worth a few quid in years to come" or fook me " how much". :headvswal And for those worried about the cost of running one, shouldnt have bought one :nono: The looks you get when you drive through the town are priceless :)

Welcome to the forum mate, im not really into stripes and decals, but the car looks very tidy, when you said she's not the best, i expected a....... actually i dont know what i expected lol All the best Graham

Ive had a gearbox, wings west valance and a hi level hiro spoiler, was a bit tight but fitted. Another time 99 spec spoiler fitted, i found it easier with the pass seat tilted forward and as far forward as the seat would go, you have a job seeing left but it stopped it moving around during transit. Have a jiggle around anyway you will find whats best for you. Cheers Graham

That was really cool, must have taken some research lol

There is one small philips screw from behind the bottom "T", bit awkward to get the right angle, but once removed, the rest of the centre cap is clipped on. Pull or lever slightly towards you and it will lift off. If you have cruise control, unplug the connector and horn wire. 19mm socket IIRC, undo the nut and ease of the wheel. The best thing to do first is to make sure the front wheels are completely straight before pulling the steering wheel, it helps centre the new one. There are plates on the bottom of the oem wheel which make contact with prongs for the horn and CC and 2 pegs that cancel the indicator stalk when turned. Remember to get the correct boss for the new wheel to take into account hi-cas and the above mention ancilliaries. Good Luck Graham

Nice to have you on board as a trader, i know you already give valuable information. All the best Graham

Hi Robbie Athene is very efficient with the packs and will be in touch shortly, dont panic lol

Use a hair dryer, much safer and not so hot, if you are not careful you could melt the plastic or crack it as you pry it apart.

You may be missing the return spring or needs lubricating

It uses the same cable that does the boot release, it has a bracket/lever mechanism just behind the rear wheel arch in the boot. When you pull obviously opens the rear hatch and push down it releases the pin which holds the flap closed. As tudor suggested, there is a small sprung metal arm which pushes the flap door open when released, bend it out a little to create more tension.

Tesco do the ones off ebay, £8 each, although they have the big box on the middle they work well on the front screen, drag a bit on the rear, but work well. Actually they are on in my sig

Well done bud, its an easy error to make, glad you got it sorted. Cheers Graham

They are normally in the footwell fuse box area, fag packet size iirc. If Phil has done the mod, it would be good to get him to expand on his close to the chest teaser info lol.

Hi if its not the resistor then you can be pretty certain that there is a break in the loom, also continuity test the ground, to be sure good luck with it and post up the results Cheers Graham

You can put wire tails on to each end of the resistor to make fitting easier at the ecu end. I know this may sound a daft question, but you definitley have a 1 megaohm resistor? Try this link http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonationSensor/detonationSensor.html

The wiring is very tight at the ecu end, make sure you are connecting the resistor to the right plug ie going to the ecu and not the dett sensor. There is a dett sensor faq in the faq section which will help.

Hi Pete Welcome to the fold, well worth it, i hope you manage to get all you need from the forum, if you have any questions though, just ask. All the best Graham

Do you know where he sourced that dash?

Welcome to the club, they are an addiction:)

This is more in keeping, dont know if he ever finished it though

You would need the dash ecu as well and then a schematic to work out what goes where.

It says previous experience in a custodial environment, it doesnt say which side of the bars:rofl: