groover

No worries mate, i know you only want it done yesterday, im with you on that one lol

Well its matt beige at the minute lol, so not quite so stealth. If i do that i will never get it finished lol. Ive done some more bodywork recently and moved the reverse camera out of the key hole and filled it for a smoother look at the rear. Will hopefully get it painted in June.

Where are you looking John? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=92607 And here on the US site, tells and shows you everything you need to know, you may have to register, but its free and well worth it for the info. http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=186494

I would say its a TT, the boost gauge on the dash wouldnt read anything if it was an N/A with TT clocks.

Its because they have reflective parts of the clear lights. I have the led hella lights on mine and the outer ring is mirrored, so when the lights are off, the headlights will pick it up, so they dont necessarily have to be red. Mine has past several MOT's without an additional red reflector.

Well here are some pics fitted at the smoothing stage then primer. I will take some close up pics of the boot edge etc tommorrow

I used a dremmel cutter on mine to take out the bits of fibre glass that wont allow it to fit along the edge, i didnt take the whole lip off as it sits against the boot bottom edge to keep the panels flush when the boot is closed. I can take some pics tommorrow if you like, although i have smoothed it all in, you can see where the bottom sits.

I bought a kit from here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140399158754&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT But i havent got to the bigger part of the loom yet, but it will be 26mm closed, so it will open up wider.

Also check your banjo bolts are tight, i just repaired a similar problem with a vectra for a relative. I say repaired, i tightened the bolt on the rack lol, No more leaks, if your bolts are tight, you could have a pin prick of a hole in the pipe which will cause it to leak, you might end up replacing the pipe.

Yep seen that and dribble sometimes at some of the bits for sale, but i think IIRC they dont ship to the UK, could be wrong, but i remember a post about them before.

Lol, i remember you were wanting the GTO done when we met at Virgina water a few years back, but yep no problem, whenever youre ready.

Oh dear lol, the tps wires need sorting properly and heatshrink, the fuse needs to be replaced, they obviously used a bit of wire to make the circuit. Lots of tidying up to do. Take a look in the faq section for pics of the engine bay and wiring, will help you get it back to where its supposed to be.

Great little project for you there lol, glad you kept your GTO too, very nice motor from what i remember.

East Anglia

:happybday: have a great day :happybday:

The heater matrix will take about 4 hours total, without the dash out, but its a bit longer in a manual as you will need to remove the clutch pedal to gain access. Ive done the job myself and the most unpleasnt part of the job is being on your back with your arms above your head and head up in the pedals lol. A new matrix is an arm and a leg from Nissan, but the matrix from a Primera P10 fits spot on and in the UK is around £50. I utilised the method on the US site of cutting the copper matrix pipes so i didnt have to get under the bonnet to remove the 8mm nut which holds the pipe in place in the bulkhead of the engine bay. But as you appear to have a leak in one of your hoses then i wouldnt bother with doing that way. The rear matrix hoses are also available from Z1 in the states. There isnt alot odf space behind the engine, but its do-able and i can see why a garage who have no knowledge of these cars would charge so much in labour for attempting it.

The higher octane will be fine in any car, its just higher powered motors run better on it. Ive used Tesco momentum ever since they started doing it in my area, no problems, tends to be more responsive and runs more efficiently.

And our Ian has some wonderful theories about mars, etc, but i think part two of the conversation should wait till JAE this year :thumbup:

Yep me too :thumbup:

Personal preference really, but if you want a UK one with the recessed logo, put up a wanted ad, i think vodkashots is breaking a UK too.

I think Luke has the smooth plain panel, which is an aftermarket copy and not an original Nissan one. The original Nissan plain panel has 2 pin holes for the badge to attach and i think the UK one has the holes but also the panel has a round indent in the panel for the badge to sit flush. So Luke is saying that the Z logo badge is a stick on for the plain panels he sells. HTH

Block them or join them, but dont leave them hanging if they are still connected to the PAS pot in the engine bay. You can modify the pump to eliminate the need to have the hoses on at all, but thats another thread if you want a link.

Nice one Dave, its been hot here since you left, so not so jealous now lol.

Thats what its for bud, good luck.

ive just ordered one, but wont know for sure till i put the new engine in, however, as its a piezo device to monitor noises from the block, i dont see why it wont work, just Nissan overpricing stuff as usual to make you think its a special part. By the way Al, i havent forgotten you, im still waiting for the bloody acrylic to arrive :hammer: