Jack

...just got front and rear poly bushes from M J P - any tips on fitting - particularly the front tie rod bushes - was someone suggesting warming them up in hot water before hitting them with a lump hammer... ...thanks in advance. Jack

...and as they produce more and more cars that look like an Audi the Z goes from strength to strength in the looks department too. I think we have to remember that we are starved of Zs in this country. When the Classic Car and Sports Car (or whatever it's called) magazine had it's 20th birthday recently it published top 20 best sellers lists and in the sports car top 20 best sellers list (global) the 300zx (z32) came 19th. So there's masses of them out there - just not in the UK. So a very lot of people know how good the Z is - they just live somewhere else...

...do the caliper rebuild kit. It's easy, and then you know everythings working as it should. Then if you want modification improvement at least you're starting from the right point. cheerz Jack

cully ...don't forget the rear gearbox mount might need replacing too - possibly in preference to the centre bearing. I'm out of my depth here (technically) but before I changed mine, after a long run, the temperature of the gearbox where the prop came out was very hot. I'm sure that the sagging mount was putting strain into that section. It could be that yours is doing the same and causing the seal to leak. Also worthy of note is the fact that I bought a replacement centre bearing first and replaced it, and the new one was marginally better than the old one ie it didn't need replacing. It seems that everyone's ready to blame the centre bearing, when it's really the rear gearbox mount. From memory I think what you are looking for re the seal can be founf on the American TT.net or whatever it's called. good luck Jack

...it's interesting running without a spare. It makes you really listen to the tyres. As soon as I have a stone stuck in the tread I know about it, and I've detected the punctures in this way - you can hear whatevers stuck in the tyre as it repeatedly hits the road. I've been luck that it's always been the tread and not the sidewalls. ...but I do chicken out - I carried a spare on a trip to the south of France last year - didn't need it.

I've run without a spare wheel and jack for 3 years now (in my NA). I do about 15 to 18k miles a year. Had 3 punctures but managed to get to a repairer before having to use the areosol - and got all three fixed. I also need a deeper boot so I don't carry the wood stuff either. I ground out the metal stands and bolted the straps to the 10mm hols that they left - still works although the carpet dosen't quite fit. I've also layed a layer of extra soundproofing to compensate for the removal. All works fine... tempting providence... cheerz Jack

...what Chris says could be the answer, also it's possible to do the same at the point where the prop meets the rear diff - I would have thought this is favourite - also the exhaust is not in the way. Try it. Remove the 4 bolts and rotate the prop in relation to the diff 90 degrees - bolt it all back together and give it a run. I did this whilst trying to solve the same sounding problems. It seemed to change the speed at which the vibrations occured - only the rear gearbox mount solved the problem. It's worth noting that when the prop is removed both centre and rear flange connections need to be marked so that they are aligned correctly when replaced - so ideally you should be able to get under the car and see alignment (chalk) marks placed there by your mechanic. Also if they've used a 2nd hand rear gearbox mount then it'll probably be no good. You can easily increase the life of a rear mount by placing a drilled plate between it and the cross member it sits on. It raises the mount, but does not increase it's flexibility. The vibes go to some extent, but a roughness remains. good luck Jack

take the spare wheel and jack etc out of the car and run with an aerosol tyre repair can instead - car lighter, car goes quicker - so I'm told (Nelson). Also remove the carpet from the boot - and the wood stuff - car sounds louder - I imagine. Cheaper than removing the cats and with a performance gain... cheerz Jack

...water pump bearing seal. It'll go big time just when you don't want it to. Mine was leaking so I kept topping it up, then in a traffic jam on a French motorway last summer it decided to let go big time. Funny thing was that after I'd topped it up a few time it's rate of leak slowed down. It still leaked and it still got replaced. About £54 to buy and a good day (if you're as slow as me) to fit. good luck Jack

they are the same. Before you buy, remove the pads, clean everthing up - there should be 2 anti squeal shims behind each pad - one stainless and one metal covered in plastic. Liberal application of copperslip then try again, if they're still noisy then replacement might solve your problem. If you want more info let me know as I've had troubles with my na brakes over the years - so been there, done that... good luck Jack

...might be miles off, but I recall the same difficulties with an abs kitted Saab 9000 and the answer was to hold down the clutch pedal during the process. Can't remember why it worked. good luck Jack

my na does the same(ish). If you move the car on the driveway a short distance then try and start it some time later it won't start. It's as though the cars brain thinks it's ben started and run for a while. What it needs is choke, so the only way to get it going is to hold down the loud pedal untill it coughs into life. Then after a bit of spluttering it's ok again. Bit like the auto choke (assuming there is one) is stuck closed, or it's getting the wrong signal. good luck Jack

...took mine out 2 years ago. no difference at MOT time re Co2 etc etc read outs. Car goes faster cos it weighs less. It needs to, it's an NA.

can you jack up the car, lie on your back under the front of it, remove a plastic engine guard, wobble a few spanners about? If so then you can do it. You should try so that when you succeed you'll feel a great sense of achievement and you'll have something to brag about in the pub. From memory of just such an achievement, I recall that you have to get the tensions right or you'll finish up with squeeling belts on start up. So, check the tensions before you remove the old ones and tighten the new one to the tensions of the old ones. good luck Jack

I replaced one rod when I got the car - replaced it with a Nissan original part, not poly, so both are the same. The ant-roll bar bushes are looking a little shot - have done for a while, but the MOT man never says anything about them. As for the posibility of other worn suspension bushes - any recommendation as to how I detrermine what's worn. again thanks for the help... Jack

Sid ...I'm coming round to the idea that it might be the tie rod bushes. I replaced one when I got the car 3 years ago. The older of the 2 looks ok, they both do, but do you know if they progressively deteriorate or just fail suddenly. Again any advice gratefully recieved. thanks Jack

...wheels balanced, newish Pilots all round, laser aligned and torque wrench tightened. The judder is felt through the steering wheel more than the car. When braking lightly the steering wheel moves left to right rapidly. When braking hard all's fine. ...any more ideas? many thanks Jack

...I've had this on and off since I got the car (NA) 3 years ago. At first I thought it was disks so I replaced them, but it still juddered once the pads had settled in. Then I noticed that it went away if I replaced the pads, but when they were half worn, the judder was back. I'm told that the calliper pistons get corroded at their midish point so last weekend I dismantled them and cleaned them uo - they were like new - and replaced all of the seals (kit off this forum). Bled the brakes and all's well, apart from the fact that under easy braking. I still get the wheel wobble - but no where near as bad as it was. Both tie rod bushes seem ok, Pads are ok, disks look ok - so I'm stumped. Anybody got any ideas where I should be looking next? The car stops ok, just this annoying wobble of the steering wheel and judder from the brakes. Obviously the new seals and dismantling, rebuilding has had some effect, but I though it would cure it. Any ideas would be appreciated. thanks Jack

rear gearbox mount - cured the vibrations - about £54 from MJP. half hour to replace. good luck Jack

Andy ...thanks for the answer - I normally manage to get my head around such mechanical happenings but this one was loosing me. Must have been over complicating things ...it's obvious when it's pointed out. ...thanks again.

sounds like my Jap NA. Cruise and the oil pressure's just above half way on the dial (not in psi cos it's Jap). When it's cold it reads high, but if i give it a bit then it falls to below one quarter when you slow down again, but comes back up to half way after a while. I'd got it down to the oil being pumped at different rates to different parts of the engine at different revs - so the oil pressure reader is only reading what's happening where it's located, not in other parts of the engine. Some times it falls to almost zero - long left hand deceleration bends are a favourite ie coming off a motorway. But the car's fine - dosen't use any oil, no leaks and runs really sweet - so I use the oil gauge as a source of entertainment... good luck Jack

Andy ...you're a star. That's excellent. many thanks Jack

...about to replace the front caliper piston seals etc this weekend - and might do the rears too. I seem to recall a thread about having to bleed the back brakes first then the fronts. Anybody got any advice. Thanks in advance Jack

2 replies... Friend called Garry Auckland - used to work in the model making section of Lola - lots of carbon fibre and wind testing. Kingston - Ham really - visiting a friend - I live in Ipswich. ...have a great weekend cheerz Jack

heavy drinking session in Kingston planned for the weekend so earlyish Saturday morning is favourite. Alternatively I'll dig out what I've got and just leave it in the corner by the garage door - help yourself, and leave the stands, they'll be ok. ...let me know what suits you. cheerz Jack