Jack

my 91 NA (obviously a japanese import) had the thinner disks and calipers. The NA disks are difficult to come by. AndyZ (traders) some times has them (2nd hand) and I'm sure MrF in the traders could also get you some - he's a real wealth of info. My 97 NA has 30mm disks. They are easy to measure... Good luck Jack

I've run an na for almost 7 years now (2 cars - 1 auto, 1 manual) and I get on average 200 miles for £30's of fuel. It's a 30 mile round trip to work. The manual seems faster and if anything uses more fuel. That might be because it's more fun playing with the revs in the manual. Good luck Jack

...was told to avoid it years ago. Something to do with it having a 'cleaning' agent in it that will clean you radiator cores ie speed up radiator core wear - that's how it works... Good luck Jack

Well done mate. You can now shed the 'inflatable dartboard' description of your mechanical capabilities. Full DIY cambelt change next I expect... cheerz Jack

...I'm struggling here but if all of the fuses are ok there has to be a major connection block from the dash area into the main wiring loom that carries all of these connections. Have you been doing anything under the bonet or behind the dash that could have seperated a connection block? Try unplugging them and reconnecting them - in the engine compartment - one by one - and at the same time check for the dreaded green oxidisation? that affects the contacts. If you find any, clean it up. If you leave the ignition on at the same time and you inadvertantly cure the fault you'll hear the heater motor start up... ...and then if it still dosn't work - talk to your friendly auto electrician... Good luck Jack

All of those items (apart from the clock) draw a lot of juice so it's gotta be a big fuse. There's some main fuses in the engine compartment - not in the main fuse box, but close to the dash, drivers side. My money's on one ogf them blowing. But finding a blown fuse is not your problem - it's finding what blew it in the first place... Good luck Jack

If it's any help - my water pump failed without any noise... Good luck Jack

Forgive me gentlemen but I'd the same problem in my motorhome and had to buy a new FM modulator. It's wired in the ariel and switched so that when on it picks up the sound for the TV and plays it through the CD/radio/DVD player. Good luck Jack

...they tell me Ipswich is the centre of the UK - Always nice and sunny too. If a meet is organised, can it be outside of school holidays. My wife's a teacher so we are always away when a JAE is on and the East Anglian meet is over the Easter Weekend - so I'll be in Cornwall... If the meet can be on an ordinary weekend - all the better. Good luck Jack

...it's easy. remove the fascia - it's only 4 screws - then you can remove the framework that the head unit is in - another 4 screws. Plus you'll have access to all of the wires etc. Good luck Jack

I removed the tins off my Japanese import really easily. People suggest a hairdryer to heat it up first, but I did it in warm weather so didn't need the hairdryer. You can practice on the rear side windows - just find a corner of the tint and carefully lift it. It tends to come off in biggish bits, and afterwards you can remove the glue residue with white spirits. Also, the rear screen was as easy, and no scraping involved, and the rear demist was un-affected. I'd enquired at my locat tint place and he wanted £60 and couldn't guarantee that he wouldn't damage the rear screen demist. With hindsight I presumed he was just covering himself as it was reall an easy job... Good luck Jack

...buy an NA. Good luck Jack

also check the bushes in the front tie rods. If they are knackered you'll get steering wheel wobble when braking. From my experience warped disks tend to show more at near stopped speed - tie rod bushes at high speed. Good luck Jack

I replaced the lowered coilovers that were on my 97 NA with standard NA items from AndyZ at £25 a corner. Easy job. Then sell the kit you remove to a younger person. Good luck Jack

I once bought a Saab that wouldn't run. When I pulled it apart for the bits I found someone had jammed an apple up the exhaust. You never know, someone could have jammed an owl up yours... ...sorry mate. Good luck

wait till the weather's warm - it's much easier - or warm the rubber intake pipe with a hairdryer. Good luck Jack

You need to get it up on ramps to have a look underneath. My NA auto had a loose starter motor (only just held on with one bolt) when I got it - Easy fix. If it is the starter it could be out of alignment with the ring - and catching at certain points ie when placed in reverse. And if you've a fertile imagination, imagine it falling off at speed... If it dson't kill you it'll kill whoevers behind you. They tell me the weather's going to be fine this weekend - perfect for getting under the car. Whilst you are under there check for loose engine covers - those big plastic things at the front. Spin the back wheels and check for knackered wheel bearings. Check the exhause for loose joints and suspension rubbers. Check that the heat shield for the cat is tight and all the bolts are present. Also check (if you can) for play in the prop centre bearing. Also, before you put it back on the ground, spray all of the rubber suspension components and tops and bottoms of the shocks inc the shiney rods with silicone lubricant. Finally check that the rear number plate isn't loose. It's loose on my current car and sounds like the fuel pump's packing up - which it isn't... Good luck Jack

it looks as thou you'll have difficulty finding anything that is stock - judging by the picture. Original shocks are black and as far as I know are gas filled. Yours looks lowered. Did you change the tyres because of uneven wear? If so it's a sign of it being lowered too much. Good luck Jack

...gurgling noise?

...you were mentioned - inbetween pint 1 and pint 2 - or was it pint 2 and pint 3? ...can't remember... Take care. Jack

Nice looking car - your wheels are on the wrong sides. I'll be getting a name for myself as the wheel police if I'm not carefull. Good luck with the lights... Cheerz Jack

Phil - who (business) are visiting in Ipswich - may I ask?

Out of my depth as I run an NA, but I've run turbo cars for years prior to the Z, and it sound like a split hose that carries the boosted air from the turbo(s) to the intake manifold. Sorry about the lack of real knowledge - the theory's fine. Good luck Jack

my jap NA auto worked fine with a speed converter. The only thing that if may adversly affect is the speed related power steering. Theory is - the converter takes 3 pulses(km) and turns them to 2 pulses (mph) so if the speed sensitive power steering is only getting 2 pulses instead of three it thinks that you are travelling slower and therefore offers more assistance. I'm now driving a manual NA with a speed converter and it feels just the same as the auto re weight of steering - so maybe the auto box takes its information pulses from somewhere in front of the convertor. Try cleaning the speed sensors on the rear driveshafts... ...there's logic in there somewhere... Good luck Jack

Richard - I had the same with my red one and it turned out to be the solenoid device that prevents you from removing the key that was failing. Eventually you couldn't remove the key so I had to tie the solenoid open with wire (easy to do) but from then on you could place the gearlever wherever you wanted whenever you wanted. Mind you I never tried kicking it into reverse whilst travelling at speed... Good luck Jack