petes21st

ok im hoping this is the last post in this thread now. The car now drives perfect and starts from cold perfect, but if the car is already warm when started, the car seems to think it needs warming up again and she idles at 12-1300rpm for a few minutes and if you touch the throttle the revs drop before they rise. But... after a few minutes/miles, about as much as would take to normally make the engine warm, all goes back to normal. Wierd eh? But never mind because the chip has removed some flatspots at high revs, COOL!

they still wont even look at me on one

18inch on 40profile rubber, and i must say if its performance your after there are alot of threads on here about the right direction to take

update.. the electric fan appears to still be on wilst the car is running, but only if the car is warmed up, then turned off, then started up again(wilst still warm) Its very wierd... any advice?

mods, what mods :)

then max 13psi to be safe, normal, maybe a little less for when your lady drives, but personally id just set it to 13 and leave it there

all standard car?

22 jspec twin turbo, about £1200 PA

looks like a repair weld to me, but these cars do rot there so it could actually be to your advantage

had to go hospital over my thumb lads because it didn't stop bleeding now ive got a thumb all bandaged up like a cartoon caracter who hit himself with a hammer. and im on antibiotics because the doc things the old import might be 'dirty' :)

nope sorry mate... im definelty right :)

absolutely

it looks much better, i dont like the strosek it doesnt suit the car

i have 235/40 18 on the front no rubbing probs on std suspension

ok, been for a drive and all is well, and ive answer my own question... the carbon deposits are caused by unburnt fuel in the exhaust from when it wasnt running right and when it was spluttering whilst trying to start. (fuel wets the carbon in the exhaust and is blown out when running) thats the conclusion ive come to anyway, especially considering the amout of fuel thats gone from my tank (bugger!) So to sum up for 'search readers' the whole problem was caused by the wiring loom to the ecu not being situated correctly. Maybe one of the wires is getting interference from another, im not to sure. Also please note : do not put you thumb in the radiator fan - it really hurts!

hang on, got the ecu back in bolted up and all seems well, but ive noticed small carbon deposits coming out of the exhaust, anything to worry about?

im trying to get it all back pluged in and bolted down and fidget with the wires wilst turning on/off the ingition until i dont hear the fan come on, its hard with a broken thumb and theres no telling i wont go over a bump and it wont start again

yeah, im playing about with it at the min, it seems like the problem is the wires that plug in, in certain positions the fan doesnt come on in others it does

no always on

also tried cleaning the temp sensor, no luck

tried to plag/unplg the ecu slowly and i can hear as the pins connect, the fan starts everytime, so i took off the headlight panal and tried to get to the connector wilst it was on, and i put my ****ing hand into the fan now ive got a broken thumb and bleeding all over

ok thanks, i just unpluged the loom onto the ecu and refittited, the car started fine, 30secs later the fan kicks in and it stalls, i restarted and the fan is on and the light is on, i loosened the loom and restarted and it was fine, 30secs later, it stalled and the lights come back on

no vent smithy, and a engine check light

will try ps. it was your answer in that thread

sorry, i tell a lie, it is the rad fan, and it is spinning. please can somebody point me in the direction of the connector mentioned in this thread http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=6338&highlight=fan+staying i cant find it