Quavey

will order some fresh disks and give that a go i suppose! Just my northerness coming out, i loath spending money unless I have to ;) Is there anyway i can health check the calipers? I was thinking of taking the caliper of and then gently depressing the brake pedal so the pistons move and I can see if they are all moving i.e that none have siezed up. Will this work?

Ahh i see, well the stock ones on mine do seem okay, apart from the vibration. So are we all agreed this is most likely disks?

Well this is my argument that they should be good enough if they work properly. I just dont want to spend money on stock stuff thats then got to go in the bin as it still wont work. To be honest it will include a bit of track work but I'm a smooth driver and tend not to brake so much. Standard brakes on the M3 were more than good enough for me on track.

I have a 95 TT Slicktop its got standard calipers and disks all round at the moment with unknown pads. It does have braided lines front and rear. Its been recently bled up with no known leaks. It's got good pedal feel. Now, the problem is that is vibrates from hard braking. Through the brake pedal and the car. The car doesnt have (much of) a vibration when not under braking (probably prop shaft bearing wearing a bit of newness off) so its brake related im fairly sure! The calipers have been painted but im not sure if the seals were ever replaced and if not what condition they are in. So my vibration is either coming from a warped disk, or could it be coming from a sticking piston only pushing part of a pad down? Or could it be coming from the pads? As far as I can tell I have four options, Keep stock calipers replace the disks and pads with new and see what its like? £200 mark (on the assumption the calipers are working properly!) Keep stock calipers and use relocating brakets and bigger disks (I did this on my last one and it was better but still not amazing) £450 ish Replace with R33 GTR Calipers and disks £500 for calipers and £200 for disks maybe more?? GO with a K sport or similar kit for the £800-£900 mark I dont really want to throw £200 away on the stock brakes if they are still going to be a bit poor. I know stock brakes are not brilliant but im sure if they were in good working order then they should be good enough for normal use! (Bearing in mind my slicktop is quite alot lighter than my old LWB model so surely they should work better since they have less to stop!) As an aside to this the tension rod bushes are not bad but not brilliant on my car (i am aware this can cause brake vibration issues but i dont think they are that bad!), something i need to consider replacing in the next few months. So options there are standard (v expensive im told!) or replace with polybushes £40-£50 i think. Or I did find these, what do people thing or has anyone used these before? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-FAIRLADY-VQ30DETT-FRONT-TENSION-RODS_W0QQitemZ160379096248QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item255756ccb8

Sell it... LOL having a moment of weakness drove my M3 again tonight and id forgotten what iwas like! Sort the brakes out the 300zx, they vibrate like Fck so not sure wether to just get some new discs for ebay standard size and see what they are like... also spotted these, seem cheap any good does anyone know? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-FAIRLADY-VQ30DETT-FRONT-TENSION-RODS_W0QQitemZ160379096248QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item255756ccb8

As a disclaimer for the rust comment...! Normally when removing these spoilers its because they have cracked and soaked up a few litres of rain which of course increases the risk of the boot lid rusting! ;) Whats up with the boot lock? Stiff? Or just wont turn? I dont think those strips are to bad from memory, i could be wrong but ive got a figure of about £40 or £50 in mind?

You could also use the key in the boot lock ;) As for your foam spoiler, underthere will probably be rust and dirt and grime lol but definatly not a perspex strip! They can be had fairly cheaply from Nissan I believe. But go and collect it rather than getting it posted as they are very fragile!

All options were available in jap land. The only thing you couldn't get at anytime is a factory tt convertible. Although there were other restrictions such as aug94 you couldn't get a swb with an auto box or after a certain date you couldn't get a factory manual convertible. (although you could at some point!)

How long is a piece of string lol. If it knocks I wouldn't rev or drive it anywhere until you know the reason. Bottom end shell replacement is allot cheaper than say a complete engine rebuild. Oil starvation or excessive wear is often the cause.

Who are you kidding mate?! ;) hehe

Lol mine with recon turbos (apparently! occasional good news!) does this in epic amounts when its cold. Just condensation as its trying to warm the world up!

Shit mate, may as well just weigh it in! ;)

:death:

You were trying to say the opposite?! lol

Dibs!

did a speedo check today with the satnav, had thought about doing this before i read the posts lol. It turns out its a bit out the wrong way. An indicated 70 is more like 74 genuine. On my private track an indicated 100 is actually 106! Where as normally speedos over read so its compounded! LOL

Im not suprised! So when do I start ;) ??

I think that my car is being a bit mean with its speed readings, especially at higher speeds. At an indicated 75 i'm absolutly howling past the wagons, it seems to rev a little harder than my old one i have to admit! Could anyone tell me what rpm the car should be doing @ say 70 in 5th? then i can see if im imagining things! My car is a TT manual (i assume it has a TT diff!) The other evidence ive got to support this is i thought that in theory if a standard car could pull to the redline in 5th it would be doing 186mph. So at 3500rpm it should do 93mph. Mine reads more like 83! Also to answer another question, does anyone have the stock tyre sizes for a jap TT? (225/45/16?)

Mate, any places going where you work ;) Must have been a serious payrise in the last few months hehe ;) Has tha cavalier finally done the decent thing and give up??!

Sunday would be better for me. RichieP since your a registered user you wont have PM's. Chris Cave 300zx Twin Turbo Slicktop N943CCF Sunday

The hold and power button is to put the autobox into sport or winter modes. Basicaly hold makes the car move off in second and forces it to change at lower rpm. Power supposidly means it keeps in lower gears although mine never seemed any differen. Mine used to go into power mode on it's own when you floored it. Uk manuals crop up on eBay I expect Nissan could get them as well but as the hold power switch was a jap only feature it won't be in the uk manual.

I'll come down to this guys! Take up a bit of space. I think im free!

Astra Van 1.9cdti Sportive - beast lol Honestly it drives so well for a van! I often do mega miles and work on site and im still alive! Also still have my BMW M3 Evo although it is forsale And of course my 300zx :)

To be fair he says not, only a small amount of boost when it went... Its got to have been either damaged, or shite quality! Well done mate, i know exactly what its like to go from an auto car to a manual after i had my old one converted, it was absolutly amazing how much quicker it was! Honestly, auto guys as Daz says get it changed asap!

I thought it had been a little dark of late! Lol welcome back mate it's a nightmare with no internet like an arm is missing!