fusion.wind

gee, thats brilliant little cheap device. just ordered one! can see that being useful to have in the toolbox. Cheers.

Cheers guys. Am pretty sure i've done most things. fuel doesn't freeze here in the UK does it?

Was wondering, what best things I can do to help my car out. Sadly, the garage is now full of crap and until such time as its unfilled with crap the car is outside. its got a nice cover on it, but alas its still outside. So was thinking, fluids and about starting it when its minus temperatures? not a good idea in the mornings but what to do to make it as comfy as possible?

I use kingofshaves oil for sensitive skin and a Gillette Fusion. i use to get sore patchy red skin after shaving. then use nevea aftershave balm for sensitive skin. using this oil helps a lot - infact i think the balm probably cured it most. A blade is waaay better than any electric shaver. I've tried a fair few and for smoothness... blade all the way. My lady hates the feel of my face when i shaved with electric... and well... why else would you shave unless u had to?? ;)

Do you know how its decided if its in 'power' mode or not? Like shouldn't the light go out once the extra fuel is spent and the load is gone? Does this mean that its going to over fuel the engine? Its only recently that its started behaving like this. I thought maybe it would go away and become normal again - but it hasn't. I know having the power switch on means that it will redline the revs, but when steady and low revs how is the light staying on? ECU codes are fine.

$97 a barrel - new record. http://www.reuters.com/article/hotStocksNews/idUSSP21758220071106 American dollar to the Pound http://www.x-rates.com/d/GBP/USD/graph120.html American dollar to the Euro http://www.x-rates.com/d/EUR/USD/graph120.html

Hello, was wondering what light could be shed on my issue. When i put my foot down a bit, the power light on the dash comes on. this i know is normal. however, the power light does not go out even after cruising at steady and low revs for quite some time. the only way to get it to turn off is to flip the switch next to the gear leaver to power mode, then back to the center position. It used to work normally. cheers.

How did you reset the ECU? could it be possible that there is loose connections now, like were you playing with other electrics at the same time perhaps? Have you moved cables, or put some on top of other... like a stereo amp powersupply cable at 90degrees to a signal wire going to the ECU? Below 20 mph and above 75 mph, the system is inactive, but between 20 and 75 mph, it moves the rear wheels up to 1 degree, depending on vehicle speed, steering wheel angle, and the speed the steering wheel is turned. I am thinking that there is a cross signal happening, that somehow its picked up that 'you' have turned the steering wheel to its maximum. It is a bit of a worry, as the HICAS system contains an emergency fail safe which locks the rear wheels in the standard fore-and-aft position if anything goes wrong, effectively turning the car back into a two-wheel steering system and the HICAS system doesn't seem to think anything is wrong.

The future of vehicles? http://www.telegraph.co.uk/money/main.jhtml?xml=/money/2007/03/13/ccnuclear13.xml I suspect a pile up on the M25 of these would probably make the evening news... http://www.damninteresting.com/?p=656

Its the fact that the american dollar is so weak that the cost of oil is going up. The cost per barrel in Euros has not changed that much - its just that the common currency is the USD. The arabs nations are selling oil to other markets in currencies not the USD for less. Without going too far into the conspiracy theories... http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601087&sid=av_HNRVcENRI&refer=home In that very coy statement, regarding "...possible disruption to Middle East supplies", one has to wonder if oil traders are looking for an attack on Iran to happen before the end of this year. Heres what I mean about the currency: http://www.reuters.com/article/reutersEdge/idUSL3068734920071030 So basically, oil is not the issue but rather Americas economy and its trickle down effects on the rest of the world. Saudi Arabia has invested trillions of dollars into USA and the UK, and is probably why they are being greeted so warmly by the British Queenie at the moment. China owns more foreign assets than Americas current foreign debt, and could essentially 'purchase' America if they released all their assets in one move. And then you have OPEC saying they have no control of the oil... they never had. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/money/main.jhtml?xml=/money/2007/10/31/cnopec131.xml Then you have Putins's input http://en.rian.ru/russia/20071018/84434501.html and the fact that nuclear power is the way forward, and France who are really running Europe and driving the economic and social advances of the continent, have over %80 of the nations energy needs nuclear powered. Of course, America stating that Iran can't have nuclear power is like saying to a child in sweet shop that you can only watch the bigger kids eat the top shelf lollies and you will have to be contented with dipping your finger into the frostings fallen off the sugar coated soft jubes.

shieet... i did check, mine is Nissan 300ZX 2+2 1990-1996 Car Cover I may have posted the wrong ebay link... this one is better :D http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-300ZX-2-2-1990-1996-Car-Cover_W0QQitemZ190167827704QQihZ009QQcategoryZ50456QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

here is a local fella http://www.coveryourcar.co.uk/store/product.php?productid=16434&cat=288&page=1 however with the US dollar as it stands, I purchases one from here: (wrong link -- see below posting) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-300ZX-2-Seater-1984-1989-300-ZX-Car-Cover_W0QQitemZ190167097313QQihZ009QQcategoryZ50456QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem am still waiting for it, its almost been a week since i purchased it so not worried yet... Mr UPS has told me it left the Americas yesterday.

Yes, you can lose %15 a year. Its not uncommon to have to 'recharge' the refrigerant gas in the car, and the stuff is most terrible for the ozone and environment. It also can make the car run a bit worse as when its on if the gas is down cause its having to work harder to pump what is there. best option, take the t-tops off let the wind through the hair and remove the aircon system. :cool: many 'odd' issues will go away with the aircon removed.

Aye, page ST-44 of the manual states Dextron ATF fluid. Hope i use it last time...

Hello, my little reservoir needs filling, but i'm not sure what i filled it with last time... Alas, I can't remember if I used ATF fluid or actual power steering fluid. I seem to recall that I didn't use power steering fluid cause someone told me never to use power steering fluid since it contains corrosive bits which encourage leakage - and leak it has... onto my now squeaky belts which makes me question myself yet again. Is there a simple way of telling from the fluid whether it is ATF or steering fluid? Is it possible to drain the power steering system (hydrological HICAS is still installed) as I'm assuming thelphat bad shit happens when you mix the two different fluids. Its well down so will require a good dollop of fluid. Should I replace anyway with Dextron ATF? Many thanks.

I have an underdrive pully, and I also have noisy belts that kick off when i put my foot down. One is right on the edge of adjustment. How can one fix it? I guessing that a can of belt grip is not the best idea.

Here you go. The manuals I have. I tried for ages to get a printed manual from my local nissan dealer. tried them in Texas too (Courtesy Parts) http://300zx.mooo.com

http://www.theregister.co.uk/2007/08/29/hacked_iphone_trade/

One of these: http://www.mini-box.com/VoomPC-2-Car-PC-Barebone and one of these: http://www.cartft.com/catalog/il/506 some of this: http://geexbox.org/en/index.html Want to go advanced? then seeing where your mates are on a map is cool: http://www.gpsdrive.de/ with a GPS dongle obviously... and some of this to create adhoc networks with other drivers: http://www.olsr.org/ or you can get a dataplan on your mobile. and you away laughing. These fellas have some forums and sell some software which looks quite good (never tried it myself though) called StreetDeck: http://www.mp3car.com/

Google Translator: http://www.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.z32-zone.com%2Fmain.html&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF8

true... ;) however on long trips I usually put in an octane booster. smoother idle, better boost and my opinion is a better drive. i do think the mileage was better... was noticeable. on the odd occasion - like the way home from a track, aviation fuel was mixed instead - and the mileage was certainly up. Mine is a Japanese tuned car.

Acetone will work as a kind of octane booster. While not actually part of the combustion of the fuel, at the chemical level it helps break the bonds of the petrol thus making the fuel 'easier' to burn. This results in a more complete vaporisation and the more complete vaporisation means less wasted fuel hence the increased efficiency. :D

put a teaspoon of pure acetone (100%, not some water/acetone blend) in with the petrol.

Diesel? No kidding, does this really help to clean out the engine? I am always a bit concerned with putting oil cleaners through my engine as I worry that they will eat some seal or remove the built up crud which is keeping a seal tight.

Do you have an amp installed? Do you have any signal wires (ie RCA leads) crossing any power cables on the floor for instance? These may feed back an unwanted signal (depending on the quality of the shielding on the RCA) back to the head unit. Its is good practice to run separate power lines directly from the battery to the headunit keeping the audio isolated from the rest of the electronics. From experience the 300zx is normally quite clean with respects to power and you shouldn't require a noise suppressant. Wiring the black ground wire to a bolt directly attached to the chassis is probably your best option rather than splicing into another -ve(ground) wire. Check also that your battery is closely grounded to the chassis in the engine bay and is not corroded meaning that the actual ground signal is in fact coming from another point, say the engine, and you do not have a particularly good chassis ground to begin with. Note in most headunit installs, the yellow wire is the +ve power and the red wire is the ignition wire which turns it on with the key. I have wired my ignition wire to the clock, as it was the easiest and closet to reach. Its easy to pick up if you get them around the wrong way, when you turn off the car you lose all stored radio station tunings. The blue wire will be for accessory, such as automatic aerial and you may have another wire which is used for dimming when the lights are on. With some luck, when you pull the head unit it will have a little diagram on it stating which colour wire does what.