SIM300

Haven't visited here in sometime, just thought I would pop in and see how things are. Some of you might remember me, some of you will not. Noticed the forum has changed a pic, with a lot of threads only accessible to subscribed members. Thought I'd share some recent pictures I took of my Z (and friends cars): Until next time :tongue:

That Ferrari almost looks like a Z haha!

Sorry to hear... That is why I don't use a car cover.

Never mind, I'll just have to T piece and existing line.

Sorry for bringing up an old post, but I am struggling to find somewhere/thing to plumb the air hose that comes off the FPR. Any ideas? In the instructions, it looks as if it is suggested to plumb it to the AIV solenoid (which I no longer have).

I don't think you can go wrong with OEM mounts. I change mine when I did the turbo upgrade a couple of years back... and the original mounts were still in fairly good condition considering their age.

Thanks. I get asked a lot what the offsets are... and I can remember what they are. I've had the rims over 4 years (they are no longer available), and there is no badge/sticker on the inside of the rim :confused: Sorry

I find the Z uses more like 4 ltrs (TT) rather than 3.5. Is good idea to drain oil when it is warm, I also jack the rear passenger side up (higher), so I can drain as much possible oil from the sump. Wipe a bit of oil over the rubber O-ring on the new filter so it won't leak ;)

2+2 F: 9" 235 R: 10" 265 Lowered too much ;)

Could be IACV.

That wasn't very well explained by me haha. If you want to learn more, have a read: http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm

Detonation sounds like little rocks being shaken in a tin can. That's how I explain it anyway. The det sensor (knock sensor) can feel the rattle, but is only active up to 4,000rpm or there abouts. Detonation is when the cylinder fires before the piston is at the top... NOT GOOD

I have an auto, which is great for drag racing. I have raced many fast manual cars, and I always catch them when they are gear changing. That said, I hate the sound of them, and I plan on converting to manual at some stage. Lets not forget the power the torque converter is taking :o

Well conzult, or datascan will let you know easily if it is the CTS. Will come up with code 13 off the top of my head. In the mean time, if you get a chance... might be worth giving the sensor and connector/plug a clean... & reset the ECU (disconnect battery over night) and see how that goes.

Nice work. All looks to be installed correct, tension rods, font upper arms etc... ;) As others have said, the springs will settle & it will lower a fraction more. It might not look any lower, but I'm sure it handles a hell of a lot better :)

Do you have datascan, or conzult? If the ECU isn't getting a signal from the coolant temp sensor idle will be erratic.

I've seen both, but watched them in the wrong order. American, then Japanese version.

The light will come on if you are low on power steering fluid, have you checked? Also, as mentioned... if your speed sensor is faulty the light will come on.

The Ring gave me shivers... I didn't mind it.

Not only are 2+2 longer, the configuration is totally different due to the location of the fuel tank.

Yes it is possible. But just because you see smoke, don't assume turbo seal. There are other things to think of, for example: overfilled with oil, jammed PCV valve, valve stem seal(s)... Turbo seal smoke is more white than blue anyway, and will smoke most at idle & WOT

I had my after market 4 bolt dumps modified to a 5 bold flange by a fabricator. Always another option.

What brand are they? I've never had problems with mine, the locking collars are suppose to be done up as tight as you can.

What gap are the HKS sparkies? Personally I use NGK iridium (.8mm) gapped plugs.

Sure, http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=920429 & http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/iaa/iaa.html Links are from TT.net so on your/our Z's we have the battery next to the unit (IAA).