zeegy

Mike is away atm - hes in hospital after an op :( get well soon Mike!! I am speaking to Danny Zaat re these parts atm. will let you if he can obtain them :) add me / email me - zeegy@zeegy.net if i dont provide you with an update on here

Guys, I seemt o be leaking coolant... but only when the engine is running and has warmed up. run for 20mins or so, its a dribble... more than 30 mins and it can dump its load a lot quicker. it appears to be coming out right at the back of the engine bay in the centre of the car. thanks (as always) to the bay of the zed and my rather large belleh i cant find the leak yet. Any ideas what i should be looking for?? im guessing its the return hose from the heater matrix (once back in the bay) thats at fault... what else could be looking coolant at the back of the engine?? Carperts etc in the car are fine, so its not that far back (thank goodness) :)

where is the yellow temp sensor? any guides / pics?

got a link to a guide or anything for that, any hardware/software required for the check ?

zeddy is ill again, when running cold (well up for about 20 mins) she will not run smoothly at all... will keep throttle at a certain position when driving, and it will drop 500rpm for about half a second, then come back to life again. then it wont do it again for 30 seconds to a minute and do it again. when running for 15+ minutes the problem disapears. sorry for the vagueness, but just wondered what the fault may be before i look into it further?

my money is a poo earth on the head unit, or an external amp if you have one. very, very common.

hi Matty, i dont think you have anything to worry about with the wheels going forward... this is a very rare case with twisted suspension or tracking issues. you are much more likely to suffer from camber issues than wheel location issues obviosuly size can also cause this rub, but this is only due to 19"wheels + with fairly high profile, or wide tyres (arch scraping) yes, it is wise to keep the wheels (or at least the tyres) wider on the rear, than the front. tons of places to try. alloys are alloys at the end of the day. just ensure, that you if you want the wider rear stance, you may have to buy two sets of alloys, say 7.5j(front) and 8.5j(rear) Id reccomend http://www.edworthys.co.uk/ - but the best tip really is to shop around, the main contenders will always advertise in the car mags, and a few calls around with a barter will find you a bargain :)

providing you are on the 5 lug setup, then yes it can be done fairly easily. you can even keep the Z31 Master cylinder and Booster, they dont have to be upgraded please look at http://zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11017 and http://www.redz31.com/pages/brakes.html for more information

they are mounted on the door pillar on the new models, rather than the doors. frankly, with you have the older model belts, the cheapest option is to look for 300zx drivers breaking their older cars (theres plenty about) have a word with paul - swzperformance.co.uk. he has done me well on zx parts before, he may be able to help you out.

in the doors is normal on the early 300zx z32 models, however - they should log with a quick jab like any seat belt... you will want to get the locking mechanisms checked out im afraid.

ok, well not a problem - can understand the situ, now looking at it. however, may be worth updating the rules to reflect, never really thought i was doing anythink wrong :/ - soz peeps;

Steve-300ZX - i was not advertising the car, merely wanted a guestimate of what is worth - thats all!

Post deleted as Reg Users are not allowed to advertise on this forum. Sorry! Steve-300ZX

http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/BuyingZ.htm

daveman - brillant advice thank you! would this also be the cause of my glowing door light (on dash) regardless of doors open or shut - or is that more likely to be a bad earth?

forgot to mention - my car is a 1990 TT Auto import

Hi guys, I have decided to split up my last post to indivdual questions as im in need of multiple help. :p I am trying to find a battery drain on the car, and all signs point to the circuit that controls the door ligting (room lamp) and the autolocking system now, I removed the following fuse : 10A (Bottom Right) AutoDoor and Roomlamp, and now my stereo system doesnt work! Can someone also remove this fuse - and see if the same thing is happening to theirs. i get the feeling my wiring has been tamp0red.

I really am thinking that someone may have tampered with my wiring... i remove the fuse at the bottom left of this Diag an now my stereo ceases to function!!! put it in again, works fine - can someone else try this on a 90ish import. is this normal, or has my wiring been tampered with. The switches appear to be fine - so thinking the glow on the door could be due to too much resistance down that cable. just a thought

my thoughts were the door senors too - where are the earths go for these?

Sorry - good point! its a TT Auto Import on a 90 plate - mk1 stylie :) im flumoxed now - the fault may be with the central locking relay - so i removed the fuse for the 'room lamp' and autolock - lets see what happens in the morning (yn) however - upon doing that my stereo no-longer works - im not stupid right? thats on another circuit!?

question for you peeps im trying to source a drain in the car, and believe the fault may lie with the interior bulb light. it was removed when i bought it, put the bulb in, and bulb is always on. At night the door open light on the dash glows too - Question Time (numbered in importance ;)) 1.) Does the zx have a timer relay for the lights (ie close the doors lights on for 10secs) like many new cars? 2.) if 1=yes, where is the relay located 3.) if not - is it likely to be bad earth/sensor on one of the doors

nah you have the processing power, so use it - pick up the feed on your operating system control panel, and feed it down a serial port to a linear acutator - far, far easier! ;)

http://classicsim.com/ may be the key - this guy has had the same dream - and has a few examples - deffo worth a look :)

*laughs* hello fellow Nerd. Was having a look around the interweb for this - and well, sadly there is no retail solution for you. I have had a play with some robotics in the past and there is only on way that I feel that you could do this. I take it your steering wheel is usb or gameport based. and if you look in the control panel you will probably see your calibration window that shows ther ammount od direction is being inserted on each value (left, right acc and braking) you would need someone to develop a program that reads these values, and passes them to Electrical based linear accuators to make the seat move. As this isnt a retail product however, it is not going to be cheap to impliment. without any knowledge about robotics in this field im afraid its not looking hopefull. My only advice really, is to speak to some Robotics nerds at specialist universities. Leeds and Oxford specialise in these - http://www.robots.ox.ac.uk/ send an email perhaps - a student may be up for a project or something??

it will be a fuse that is gone, or a short circuit effecting to two circuits. check the fuses 1st - the ones in the drivers footwell, and the stereo headunit itself.