sepp

I have this clicking sound from heating system, it sounds like a flap is jammed and can't close (or open), there is a clicking about every 6-10 secs also a noise like a spring pinging and another noise like a solenoid is attempting to move something! I think it's pretty obviously a flap that is stuck, but does anyone know what to do to fix the problem. It only happens when you set the temp to below about 19c. When it starts the noises, if you then up the temp to about 24c, it stops and you can lower it to 19 or 20 without it starting again, but when you try to go to 18 or below it starts every time, whatever you have any of the other buttons set to. Doesn't make any difference whether you have air con on or not, it's only recently started doing this Cheers for any help on this in advance guys :headvswal

Got them out, but can't seem to buy them anywhere! Does anyone know where to get them, all the bulbs in the motor shops I know seem to be to big, I need 2 for one of my gauges. Someone 'must' know where I can buy them!!?!! Cheers guys :confused:

If you are still on here tony, can you tell me how you got these bulbs out, some of mine have gone. I had a look and think I know (the little round holes on the back - do you just unscrew the things you can see in them?), don't want to break anything before I'm sure!

Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the little bulbs in Greddy gauges, and if so, how? One of mine no longer lights up properly Any help much appreciated as always guys :confused:

Mobil 1 is no longer the same oil as it used to be (when it was actually Mobil, Mobil was taken over by Exxon), it is no longer a genuine fully synth. I e-mailed Exxon about it, I asked if it was true it had been downgraded, or if it was still the same oil (the same technical specification) as it was before they bought out Mobil, and they REFUSED to say it was still a fully synthetic (as defined when Mobil 1 first came onto the market), and REFUSED to say it was the same quality and specification. They completely avoided my very specific questions, and just waffled on about it being suitable for my car! They have downgraded Mobil 1 oil, but still charge the same prices for it in ordinary outlets. I used to swear by it, but now use Motul 300V Power 5W40 motorsport fully synth oil, definitely a genuine ester based fully synth motor oil.

I used to use Mobil 1, but it has been downgraded (it is no longer a genuine fully synthetic oil, although they still charge the same money for it!!) since Mobil was taken over by the yanks, so won't touch it now. I now use Motul 300v motorsport 5w40 fully synth, fantastic multi-ester based synth (which I have read a lot of high performance car owners use in Japan, Zeds, Skylines etc), it is brill, certainly NOT cheap, but woth every penny, one of the only GENUINE fully synthetic oils still available.

Don't know if this will help anyone with this all to common problem, but my idle was all over the place. Then found out I had problem with an alternator connector which had briken, it went altogether and the car stopped with a flat battery. Got the connecter replaced, battery charged etc, and never had any idle speed problems since!! Don't know if it was anything to do with this, but do know that it hasn't happened since other problem fixed. Maybe electrical supply problems like this can cause it?

Cheers for al ur help guys, sorry for delay in replying, but having to come to library to use computer right now, as mines down!

Thanks. Do you mean with the car facing up the incline? Does the engine have to be cold (ie left overnight) before topping up/bleeding properly? I have just had the system drained for some engine work, and I don't think they bled it properly, she is also running hotter than before the work, although they drained my 'Water Wetter' out, and I haven't put any more in yet!

I seem to have a noise (a bit like a dull tin can rattling sound, or maybe a bit like water with air in it trying to get through a pipe). It seems to be coming from under the plastic trim (exterior) where the wipers are, under the windscreen, both sides. This seems to be the only place you can really here it, if you put your ear up to this trim! Any help really appreciated guys. I have only just noticed it, so am not sure if it has always been there!

Does anyone know where I can get replacement curved metal valves for my Nismo alloys? Been to a few normal tyre places and they say they can't get these curved ones! One of mine is about to shear off, can't put any air in with pump anymore, and they are all a bit worn on the end of the thread where the pump goes on. As always, any help greatly appreciated guys.

Thanks m8, sorry it's a bit late but computer down at mo, have to go to the library when I can!

When I start from cold she is hesitating, if you leave the accelerator in the same position it picks up and then hesitates etc. Then when warmed up and with A/C off the revs keeps dropping right down to just above stalling speed, the engine just about keeps idling. Sometimes the idle speed goes to high as well! When the A/C is on when warm, the idle seems ok most of the time, but sometimes too high.

Can you tell me if it is a fail if one of your side repeaters is not working?

Someone out there must be able to answer this, please?!!!? :hyper:

Does anyone know if I can get a 285 in a 17? Tried searching for one, but only seem to do 285/35 profile in 18in wheel and larger. What profile would I need for 17in wheels in a 285, 40 or 35, or something else? Running 265/40/17s at the moment.

Can't believe that, I asked about 285's for my rears when I ordered my new set the other day from a local tyre place, and the bloke said I wouldn't be able to put them on because they would stick out beyond the arch and that was illegal. What a twat!! They don't stick out at all do they, might cancel my order and order 285's after all then, as the tyres haven't arrived yet anyway.

I really love these tyres and always use them too. Only got 8,500 miles out of rears tho and 12,200 out of fronts!! Just about to replace all round.

TOYO Proxes, the BEST!!!

I have a tein suspension system on mine (already fitted when got car, may have been fitted in Japan), VERY firm, but corners and grips (wet & dry) like it's on rails, still haven't got used to how awesome the handling actually is! It handles better, or at least as well, as my previous car, an Audi 100 S4 quattro turbo! Don't know anything about the system (drop or anything), but it is awesome if you don't mind a hard ride.

A genuine 'fully' synth 5w40 is absolutely fine whatever state of tune your car is in, UNLESS it regularly 'exceeds' 120c oil temp, simple as that!!!

Ok, cheers people!

Is a stock 1992 N/A front bumper the same as a 1992 TT front bumper? If so, will it fit straight onto my 1990 import TT, and will it look the part??

Does anyone have Mike Feeney's phone number please?

Thank you lot, after shave doesn't work tho, did try that!!