markstevens

same tyres, same proble, I run mione at 30psi, for what its worth, but I have not run it long enough to know how this presure effects the wear. Handles OK, though. I do belive a TT supra uses the same size. Maybe use their presure?

Driving a good diesel is almost as good a driving a Z, in a funny sort of way. They have to be driven to be really appreciated and for a daily driver you cant beat them. If I won the Lotto I would probably still use a diesel day to day, mind you it would be an Audi A8 Diesel.

I know what you measn, but I just like buying cars I guess.

Hi all, I am thinking of selling my 300, really just to buy another one from Japan. But what mine worth? 1993 (november) Series Two. 50k miles auto TT. Black 17'' Split rims, good tyres Aftermarket rear exhust, not loud or drain pipe size. Uk clocks 12 month MOT Plus usual stuff like cd, t roof etc VERY NICE inside and out. I am very tempted to say above average but have not seen a great many others. Drives like a dream. Any comments would be nice.

Hi,no disrespect, but have you thought od something really sensibel? Like anAudi TDi or Passat TDi. Good thing is about runnig a diesel and someting the opposite of the Z is when you get in the Z it is such a difference it is great all over again. and 50mpg dosnt hurt either.

Needs looking at, SOON, sometimes, an auto can be saved or its life extended by early attention. sounds like it might be too late though.

Please be careful with another piston, I built a engine using a s/h piston, it was as new, and it made a small end noise, had to put a new one in to stop it in the end. Just a suggestion but maybe you could price a new piston and rod. it would be a real pain to have to remove the engine a second time. Just a thought.

Grant, I hear what you say, and to be honest I did not think about what you have just said. However, for the test to be of any real value, for camparison, I would hope that they used the appropriate cars for the tyres etc. As I saiid, the test compared them with all sorts, and so if a Rainsport, is compared to say a Pilot Sport, and the RS comes out better, is that not good enough for a quick comparison? And a quick one is allwe can expect, we all drive differently, and prefer a different "feel". Anyway, so far I am pleased with them. They are quieter than the previous tyres, (Uniiroyal) and I dont have any hint of front end running wide.

I have just fitted Rainsports, if you look at Mytyres, they have test results. Rainsports beat them all, wet or dry.

Mine cost me £19.00 plus a few pennies, for the rear, custom size, and the front. Serck Services, trade only though.

A lesson here for those few who got carried away with all sorts of tales/thoughts of doom. This is exactly what I thought it "Should" be. You do need to check that the damaged rod has not marked the bottom of the bore, I dont know about Z's but sometimes the bend, of the rod, can hit the bottom of the bore and put a dent in it, just file it off and then smooth is with wet&dry etc.

By the way, the fuse box you need is by the throttle pedal.

350x170 fits my series 2 jap, bigger than others here but it is a PERFECT fit, so maybe you should measure yours.

Many people wont like this but you can buy an additive that can "fix" leaks when they are because of an oil seal failing. I gather it gently "attacks" the seal, making it grow slightly and making it softer again. I am not saying this is a fix for good, but for £3-£5 it is worth a try if only to keep the oil off your drive until you can get it fixed properly. Also, when you have put it in the engine, and IF it fixes it, you know it is the engine that is leaking.......

What is the spec of your car?

I am with Vicky on this, I have never heard such a load of ill-considered rubbish. Why would you think that WD40 would ease pressure on the spring? No offence, but, what the hell?

toger13, your navy chap is plain wrong. As for putting it in neutral, with the engine off the gearbox does not know what gear it is in (other than park) as there is no pressure to "engage" the gears. So other than park you can do what you want with it (engine off)

No lurication, in the old days some boxes had "rear pumps" as well, these you could tow as the pump was on the output shaft. An engine which is idling is OK for towing as the pump is being turned. OR, some/most boxes can be towed if you OVERFILL the box by a large amount, this puts the oil high enough to lubricate, not for too far though.

I dont know, but prob in for tighter. I do know that they are very sensetive to adjustment, too loose and the engine £flares£ when it goes into the gear the band affects, too tight and it will burn it out....You need the correct adjustment. Not someones half guess

Hi, ask fro Ken, tell him Mark Stevens suggested you call him. 01296 481145. Stress the club thing and more work to follow etc, And yes his mechanic said that would be everything, but that often they did not need a converter. Luck, oh, yes about 11/2 houts from you up the A34 to Oxford, then Aylesbury

I bought mine from Japan, from 6 images on the net, it is better than I had hoped. I bought it 12 months ago now and have only just SVA'd it. Dont ask me why because it was simple to do. It is a 1993, TT auto 50000miles, 17" split rims. Momo wheel, Nice aftermarket exhaust, paid 420,000yen inc shipping. And I am looking at a 93 manual now from the same people, but I am third in line so dont expect to buy it..

Someone said "Ive got a client that spent most of his working life in the motor industry in the far east and he states that cars there are designed with a short life span due to 3 year testing laws and are built with inferior quality components compared to european counterparts due to this? Is there an element of truth to this or is it old japanese wives tales" This allways amazes me, as if any manufacture has the time to design, make, stock and then fit two different quality parts. GM saved 12 million dollars in one year just by fitting the same head light switch to all of its cars, the bit you dont see. can you imagine the cost of making a cheaper Z? It would end up being the more expensive Z Mine is 10 years old this year so, mine too is on its third life.

I use Southampton, and so far have had zero probs from the docks. I have heard that Tilbury is bad.

Thats fair enough, to be honest I dont know if a grand is good or not. But I do know there is nearly allways some poor sod on this forum who has had, or is having trouble with an auto thats been rebuilt recently. If your guys are good it is far better than the guy I know, but if they are a bunch of wasters its £600.00 too much. And unless we have had experience with the individuals, who knows? And its OK, he was not eating chips. NO offence.

HI All, I have a friend in the auto trans game, he has been doing them for more years than I can remember, about 20 I guess. I called in to see him today but he was not in, on road test. I spoke to his mechanic who gave me the price of about £1000.00 for a guarranteed rebuild, (12 months) full rebuild not a repair, inc torque converter and labour in and out. He is based in Aylesbury, Bucks, on one of the industrial estates. I can possibly get this reduced if enough people are interested in starting up some sort of dialogue. ??????? Any responce????