markstevens

What are the details, if any of the 2 week thingy? Does anyone know, it is longer than that now but I have been complaining since the first day. Also I am happy to stand by what I have written as it is all true, and I have all of the email from the Jap wankers at Kobe and photos, before I got the car, at the docks and at my yard, (for what they are worth) , I can prove what I am saying is true. Even the mileage was 15,000 kilos out, as in they said it was lower than it is. And I can prove I have note tampered with the clock. I am sorry if any Japanese persons are reading this, I do not include all of you, just those at Kobe. I am also sending this story to other sites, if I am succesful in stopping one other person getting ripped off by them I will have done some good. This is not revenge etc. I am prepared to accept a mistake on their part, and if they had refunded a decent amount of money no problem, but £50 ? Ha ha. The jokes on me. Any help with the two week return thing would be good. thanks.

I made the mistake of buying from http://www.kobemotor.com/ The car was very poorly described to say the least. I am in the trade and the cost to put it into the condition as described is approaching £1000.00. They even got the mileage wrong, how I dont know. Actually I do, they dont give a sh*t. They have offered me £50.00 refund, as if that would make any difference. Please tell everyone that you know to pass this on so. I ask this because I dont want them decieving anyone else. They should not be in business and the more people tell others the more likely they will go out of business. I can tell the whole story to anyone who sends me email.

What ever you do, if it is from these people, http://www.kobemotor.com/ DONT. I bought from them and you would never believe it was the same car, it looked good in the photos and the discri[ption was all good apart from a scratch in the drivers door. even the mileage was way off. then they offered me a refund, of £50.00, yes fifty pounds. Wankers. Take care and good luck

I am not saying I understand brakes, but in the days when I played with superbikes, you could compare 2 bikes, in my case FZR1000 to GSXR1200, similar brakes setup, but the Yamaha would out stop the GSX every time. So it was not a case of bigger, but better. we used to swap master cylinders to iprove the GSX brakes. With the ZX I feel it is the componets as opposed to the size of the brakes. A good brake man would be able to get them, the standard ZX, working properly, I think. I half remember reading about a problem similar to yours, it was a builkd up of gas inbetween the pad and the disc, I know it sounds odd, which was causing the problem. Cant remember how he fixed it, maybe a different pad material. Saying that I do remember when the Police ran Cortinas, yes I am old enough, they used to cut a groove down the middle of the pad with a hack saw to clear the build of gasses. and when I changed my ZX pads they too had a groove in them. Have yours? and if not maybe put one in and/ make it bigger?

i AM NO EXPERT, BUT FROM WHAT YOU SAY IT SEEMS THAT BY APPLYING THE BRAKES GENTLY FIRST BEFORE A BIG PUSH YOU MAY BE (sorry for the caps) "cleaning" the pads/discs, of what I dont know, but can you see my direction? If your brakes work well after a gentle push it is very probably not pipes etc. As they would cause probs every time. IMHO.

OK, thanks Cos. I am mor than happy to accept your word. And they do look loads better. Not sure I am patient enough to do it though.

I said this before on this topic but I cant see how the chrome tape can make any difference to how much USABLE light is projected down the road. They do look better, and they might well put out more light, in a haphazard, irregular sort of way. But the light needs to be reflected out of the light, forward and down the road, and putting tape where it is put can not do this. IMHO of course.

The threat to increase the fine is very wrong, and I have heard this before. But I think, and I am not sure, that in some (many) cases they cant be bothered to fight all cases and so drop it if you fight back and ask for the evidence, (a friend wrote across the form "I am contesting this") but ,this is my original point, I think you can change your plea after you see the photo and so avoind the potential extra fine. IMHO

I think they are not in fact infrared, just have a red flash colour. If you lookto see exactly what type of camera flashed you, they are very different if you look, and then look on the web you will know if it can get you from the front or not, and some can. I think if it has a round lens/flash then it is a front firing camera, regardless of if it is digital or not. And I have been flashed a 20mph in a 30 from the front by a malfunctioning camera before so they do go wrong. With regard to them not having film in, this is often the case, but I believe then they only flash once, and I have seen them flash speeders 3 times, where they used to flash twice. Sounds like it got you if there were several flashes, but were they red or white? If white probably O, if red then not. Good luck though.

Wheel spin at 100mph in fourth gear? My, what a fast car you have.

Just tweaking your tails......Well mostly, it is true that if you cant control your car then you should back off until you can. And not blame the car if you are caught out. And yes I have been caught out a few times too, because its fun to Hoon. (Kiwi word meaning race/slide/bburnouts/ etc etc But I never blame the car.

My Zx came with a traction control as standard, it is a 2 part device which consists of a throtle pedal and a brain. Whan used in conjuction with each other there is no loss of traction as the power is reduced to an appropriate amount prior to getting into trouble. I am surprised there are not more Z's with this option.

Ah but I changed my jap speedo to uk, so I have no converter. So is the signal from the gearbox changed by the speedo and then sent to the odo, or is the odo different? Or is the signal from the gearbox changed in the binacle and then sent to the odo?

Now theres a thing, I changed my odo to miles, and did not think it would be anything but correct. Now I will have to check it.

Did on mine, and why change two items when you can only change one, as in Nissan when they make the car.

I dont think TT.Net is right. In fact in my case it is wrong, which is a fact. The sensible way, and I know not every car manufacture is sensible, would be to change the speedo to suit the country, as they are making different ones for different measurement, ie MPH or KPH.

I have no experience other than doing mine, but I would think that the different readings required for different countries would be in the speedo itself. And so I would guess that a USA speedo would be OK. IMHO of course. But I would try it.

I was told I needed to de-limit the car as well as putting a UK speedo in, but I have found that the car is still going strong at 120mph. SO maybe the uk speedo did de-limit it. Or maybe it was not limited in Japan, (I imported it). I did find that I had to fit just the speedo itself into my Jap clock set, as it were, as the binalce from te UK car had different connections. Works fine though.

It works in reverse, ie UK speedo into the Jap cluster. And it is accurate, in my case, to 1mph.

With that mileage the car should be looking like, and driving like new almost, if it isnt, and the rust implies it is nt, I would have to ask if the mileage is correct. And if it isnt, what else isnt?

You need to know exactly what the add said. It is fact that if the seller said it was good "in the add" and it isnt you have a very good case. which I think the trading standards ot someone will chase for you. There was a small article in Autocar, (I think) about just such a case.

Adding to what someone else has allready said, the add must be correct, ie, if he said it was all good and no prob etc than it must be so, regardless of if he is private or not. THis is fact, I read about someone getting their money back in such a case.

If the first priority is getting your mates money back, have you considered threatening the MOT tester/garage with reporting them to the relevent people unless they put presure on the seller. If they were to loose their license it would cost them a fortune in lost business and so is quite a big incentive for them to also put their hands in their pockets.

Any news yet? Hope you are geting on OK

No one seems to have mentioned Burnprrof, or Overrun Protection. Maybe they all are now, but I have a Philips CDRW 2000, and it NEVER gets it wrong, and you can use any other programes while it writes without fear of it spoiling a disk. It is foolproof.