ROLY

hi John, i would be very interested - any ideas on what spondoolies he wants and when he is ready to sell regards dave

Hi John, will your mate be stripping it all out or is he selling the whole car as it is - i would not be able to test the car but would be happy to buy all parts required at face value depending what he is looking for it - i really appreciate evryones help and advice many thanks dave

i have decided to go down the auto to manual conversion - are there things to check on a manual gearbox to ensure that it is a desent box - i realise that it would mostly be luck of the draw but i would like this to be the last box if poss (misses will go mental) dave

Many thanks for the link - will have to weigh up the options - if i keep it as auto then i will look into full rebuild - or i may see what the waiting list is like for a manual conversion - i take it the manual boxes are a lot stronger - i dropped the gearbox sump and it is very brown - baffled how the dipstick showed it as almost clear??? I would be interested to know from those who converted from auto to manual if they are pleased they did so dave

hi JJ, Not sure if it is the end of the box - there is a guy staying here at the minute from London way and says he has his own garage and has worked on plenty and recons it could just be blocked - the box has been lovely and smooth (but then i have been giving it some hammer the last couple of months) still makes me smile the speed of these things i would be interested in the rebuild - do you now what type of rebuild it could be (do they just replace whats gone or do they check over evrything else as well) - i have my old box sitting around or i could remove the box and courier it up - i would be very gratefull of any further info regards dave

hi, i know there are loads of threads about the dreaded auto box but i have to be in work soon - my auto box is a 2nd hand one and working lovely - oil cooler fitted at the same time - it was running great today - stopped for fuel and now will not change out of 2nd - checked oil and seems fine - extremely clean almost transparant with a hint of pink - no codes on diagnostics - can it be a simple blockage or anything other than knackered gearbox - i suppose if this one is dead it will be conversion time anyone got any good options - how much for a rebuild if i remove box etc - any help greatly recieved regards dave

i have checked mine and no captive not - at this stage i do not hate the front belts enough to go through the pain in fitting - nice idea while the trim was out but not losing sleep over it many thanks dave

Sorry to hijak your thread Kurt, but i was contemplating changing my front belt from door mount to pillar but i have the apperature at the lower but the lower mounting point is not threaded either - i understand that the top mounting can be a problem as well - is there a definate guide somewhere on here where someone has got round this or is it more trouble than it is worth - any help much appreciated dave

hi, Hi kurt, mine too was as moby says, just drilled the ineterior panel to reveal mounting point dave

thanks for the replies guys - sorted now it was the wiring/sensor behind the gear linkages on the box (not sure what they are called) but it had some adjustment so i moved it a little and it started first time regards dave

hi once again, i have just put everything back together after fitting a replacement autobox. I went to start it and it will not turn over - lights are on inside the car and have checked battery voltage at 12.9v so its not the battery flat - i have checked all fuses and there ok - i was so careful when removing and putting everything back as not to do disturb anything. I have checked the earth strap at the top of the bellhousing and thats fitted and tight. The only issue i had with the new auto box were the wiring loom had been cut - i used my loom off the old box and reconnected all the wires and did a continuity check to test the new coonections and all seems fine i am now at a loss at where to begin looking - starter wires are connected - any help would be great dave

i really appreciate you going to the trouble - it was just one of things that was niggling me while at work in the morning and i had to have another go at it - once again many thanks dave

many thanks guys - i had a good look at it today and measured the front end of the input shaft on both boxes and the shaft on the replacement box was extended about 10mm - gave it a gentle few taps and converter fits great many thanks once again for the help and advice dave

many thanks

i am in no rush so if you could that would be much appreciated dave

thanks for that im glad i asked - i have tried for god knows how long of turning and pushing but it just will not go - i measured from the edge of the bell housing to the converter and the old one is 40mm and the replcement 34ish mm - is there any way of checking i take it you cant tell by movement at the rear splines to prop shaft dave

hi to all, i am just getting my replacement autobox ready for refitting and was going to try the refit putting the torque converter in the gearbox so i know they are correctly alligned - is this the easiest method or is it easier to bolt the converter to the fly wheel and then offer the box up - its just when i put the new (to me) converter on the autobox it does not seem to go on far enough - i compared with the old box and converter and the converter slides crisply back with a clunk - the replacement sits about 5mm or so less than the dead box - is there a way to tell its in far enough as i would hate to damage anything on fitting - any help and guidance greatly recieved regards dave

dredded that one - many thanks for the reply dave

hi, i have just removed my autobox for replacement and noticed a small oil leak from behind the flywheel - i assumed it was the rear crank oil seal (which i will replace anyway) but after removal of the flywheel it appears to be the small rubber gasket beneath the crank - would i have to remove the sump to get to it or is it possible to replace it as it is - kind regards

thanks for the replies guys, from what i see i only have the main rad - the existing autobox pipes go to this and then in front is a small cooler (6/7 inches high by about 10/12) - so when i disconnect from the main rad do i have to plug the old holes or are they ok left open - any further help regarding the wiring loom etc would be great many thanks

sorry forgot to add its a tt 1991 import cheers

Hi, i have just startd the process of removing my auto box as it died a couple of months ago. I dont want to take any chances with posible contamination (if thats what damaged the old box) so i will fit an new oil cooler for the autobox, pipes and torue converter. When i disconnet the old feeds to the rad do i have to block them off or can i just leave them (i thought these were at the bottom of the water rad) but i have one at the bottom and one about 2 thirds the way both on the passenger side - i removed the nose panel and there is an additional cooler already mounted - the pipes to this go the other way (drivers side) would this be an engine oil cooler - if so where do i mount the new autobox cooler and finally (for now anyway) does anyone have a link or picture of the wiring loom connections under the bonnet coming from the auto box as i am worried about getting the wrong ones and damaging them any help much appreciated regards dave

thanks guys thats a great help - will take for a run and then if still bad drop the oil and change filter - many thanks paul for the input - bearing in mind i am in "isolated devon" - where is best to have solenoids checked if need be - is that a service you can do kind regards dave

Thanks Graham, only using to and from work (5 miles) at the mo will take for a run at weekend - doesnt change up if slightly back off - only if floor to 6500 revs - paul thanks for input NOT

Hi, I know that the forum is inundated with autobox faults and problems at the minute - but i havent found anything like mine (or i have missed it). It is a 1991 tt import - the box has always been ok upto aabout 5 months ago when it started to slip a bit 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd - this was only when opening it up. I changed the oil - cleaned the filter and all seemed a bit better - there were no sign of debris or anything in the auto box sump. It now will not engage 3rd when i drive normally - if i put my foot down it will go right upto 6,500rpm and then change and then it will drive ok even at lower speeds - this is until i stop and restart and the cycle continues. I wandered if it could be electrical or whether to change the oil again to see if that helps any advice would be greatly appreciated dave