ROLY

thanks guys, i am chuffed as it came out well - thanks for the great comments

some more interior pics

hi all, i finally picked up my car yesterday after a full respray (new shade of red) and new trimmed interior - many thanks car mad for new bumpers and bodykit - they certainly look the part - just need to get a valuation from somewhere for an agreed insurance policy - i am with classic line who seem good and i know i would never get what i have spent but would like to cover some of the money pit

hi mate, all ordered - went for a set for fogs and dips - i really appreciate the links and the write ups - will even go mad and clean the inside of the headlights while he has the bumper off dave

hi mate, many thnaks for the that - will order those straight away - any pointers on the hid's that are compatable (again seems a lot to choose from) thanks for all your help - very much appreciated dave

hi, my car is in the body shop having bodkit etc fitted and full respray - just got the new clear side light/indicators for the scarab, but now they show up the fogs - i was going to put the ducts in but would prefer the spot lights - is ther an upgrade/aftermarket set of fogs that fit that dont have the ribbing to match the new lights where could i get the small bulb holder for the lights to add the side lights to the unit regards dave

hi, many thanks for response - spark plugs were changed at time of service and has only done about 500 miles since - i have checked the small pipes that i can see is there any other way of checking for a boost leak - i will try and get hold of another maf to try i think and start trying to elliminate some ideas regards dave

Hi, as title really - it is tt import - it idles lovely and when driven through the gears normal driving it feels fine (maybe a very slight lumpyness) but under hard acceleration in first and 2nd is fine - 3rd, 4th and 5th as soon as the turbos kick in it misfires and pops through the exhaust very loud - it does get less after 4250 but still not smooth - it has an apexi filter and even in good weather is the same - if revved when standing its revs clear so only under load - i suppose a needle in a haystack but would be grateful of where to start - it has had full service, plenum pull, and cambelt service in october - any help much appreciated regards dave

I have to say a massive thank you to Jeff and Jamie for excellent work on my Zed and perfect customer service. I picked it up today after serveral bits done and i cant believe what a transformation. It has given it a new lease of life once again thanks for everything regards dave

hi, i know probably sounds too simple but have you tested the battey. It may have the ability to take the charge but not have the ability to "hold" the charge - alternator would be working as normal but over a period of time following a run would discharge itself - You could try disconnecting the negative lead and leave for a few days and if battery is flat then there is nothing pulling amperage. I know for a correct test following a run or charging a battery should be left for several hours before being tested - sorry if i have misread anything

yes please mate - part number would be much appreciated dave

i will have a go at bleeding the clutch now it is in properly - Alan, where did you get the reflon bearing and does it need to be packed in grease

hi, i installed my short shift gear stick at the same time as a manual conversion so probably not the best idea as i do not have anything to compare it with - this was a couple of weeks ago and it still seems very awkward and "notchy"/ clunky - i am convinced it rattels and vibrates as well - is this normal or could there be a different fault looming dave

thanks for the replies guys - the pads were new (not any more) - the only thing i have just found on the internet is about brake pedal free play - if no free play then this will not allow fluid back into master cylinder - i wander if this could be it as i didnt check that as i fitted my new pedal assembly follwing my conversion- once again many thanks

after the unseize the brakes feel good - then as they start to seize the pedal goes rock hard - i can see when someone operates the brake pedal they work well but they do not release as they should -

i have had a problem with my front drivers side brake over the last few days and had come to the conclusion that it was seizing - stripped and put back together and was ok for about 8 miles and then seized again - have ordered new disks, pads and different caliper - i have striped the passenger side as the easy option and this is the same - the pistons return back lovely/easily but when attached to the car and are pressed out they do not return on their own - just done the manual conversion and trying to retrace steps and only changes are - different balance bar (for clutch servo) - new pipe from brake master to plenum and the new brake pedal - it bothers me that it could be a system fault and not seizing - i dont want to fit the new disks and pads for it to seize and damage the new stuff - amy help as always much appreciated

thanks boldy - i have stripped the drivers brake as it had seized and was badly dragging on the wheel - still unsure on the clutch something just isn't right and i am contemplating whipping the gearbox off again - i can hear the noise with the window down and as i first change gear more noticable in first and second (like a rattley drone) so i have convinced myself it is the release bearing - clutch smells under load and changes smoothly after first - just first and reverse you have to rev a bit and ride it to get moving - i dont believe its a puck clutch but who knows - evrything else seems ok - no wobble now and its just the noise and the smell i just dont want to f..k it up many thanks dave

thanks for that - i have took it out again today and i am getting used to the clutch now but its the vibration on the steering thats making it unbearable (oohhh sooo dramatic) - but it comes and goes so i am starting to think the brakes are binding badly - no noise but almighty heat - if i tap into neutral and coast it slows ever so quickly even with the clutch pedal in - i know they are really low on one side but its strange - i am just paranoid i have put something back wrong (clutch plate on wrong way round or something) - i am sure now that it is the release bearing noisey but again i am baffled as it is brand new

the clutch came labelled as CC (Competition clutch.com) and the wheel have not been touched and were fine before fitment The rattle is hard to describe its almost like a vibration/bearing noise but only noticable when pulling away in first and second until 2000rpm plus - i dont think it os release bearing noise as its the same clutch in or out but i can feel it through the gear stick

many thanks to all - thius would not have been possible without the help of you guys - i have finally got it all back together but have a few niggles that i need more help with being a manwell virgin, The clutch bites about a 3rd of the way up and in first feels very heavy and as i am letting out to find the biting point it vibrates a little and lurches - seems like i am fighting with it when first started the car idled about 750 rpm but now idles about 1500-1750 once warmed and stopped at lights I have a noise thats sounds like its directly beneath the gear stick - sounds like a heavy rattle at lower rpm (when driving and under load) but when throttling off you can drive through it God awfull vubration about 45mph through the steering wheel (wobble) - if this is prop is it centre bearing (i left the one on the donor half) or does it need splitting and turning - if the turning option do i have to turn in increments of 90 degrees or 180 It has a new "Competition Clutch" so could the biting issues be this running in or is something else wrong it also has a new clutch release bearing and gear changes after first feel fine - bit notchy but fitted a short shift as well - as always all help much appreciated dave

absolutely spot on - hazard switch was loosely mounted many thanks

many thanks guys for all the replies - it was a massive help - went under the car this morning and tested with multi meter and there was nothing - so checked the ignition wires and it was definately the immobiliser - gave the folks a ring who fitted it and they advised how to bypass it and started first time (thank god) - only smaller issue now is i have no indicators - hazards ok just no indicators once again many thanks and once sorted will come and meet at the more local meets dave

i have tried bridging the grey connector (in the same loom as the starter) - i tried to see if there was any life in the starter by connecting a jump lead to it but it was lifeless - i have removed the starter now for further testing but so far i have tried a direct jump lead from good battery to starter nut and also with a neg jump to the casing and it still does nothing - could this be dead or am i testing it wrong (if it is dead i dont understand how - it was perfect when i removed it and to put it back without so much of a click - can it do this - am i just looking for an easy option - i dont hear the fuel pump kick in when the ignition is energised or does it all work in sequence

hello mate, many thanks for the replies - i have the column surround off now and can see the wires from the immobiliser i think - i have the immobiliser module accessable - can this just be unplugged or not as simple as that - it just seems something silly and its driving me nuts

i am sure i have checked all fuses unless they have gone since - which one could be the culprit - when i turn the key to start i can here a relay click and thats it - sounds like it was coming from drivers footwell - i hace a toad c5 -