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Stuart, If you are talking about the relief valve that feeds the oil cooler then this would not take a lot of pressure away. The oil cooler has a restrictor in line so that not too much oil is not diverted away from the engine to the sump!

Mitsubushi electrics and motors are two entirely different companies BTW

the first figure is the the distance the oil will travel down an incline at a certain temp, i.e.closer to the starting temp of the engine, this will differ according to the local climate the second figure is the distance of travel down the same incline at a higher temp i.e.closer to the operating temp of engine Just use a high quality, fully synthetic oil and change it with the filter every 3000 miles! Arguing about oil, is just like birds arguing over who makes the best make up!

In my opinion 10-60 is way too thick!

If you are still running it in, you use the cheapest oil you can find until you have run it in!

Ropey Old motor, hope he doesn't park at Billing again this year :D :D :D

A pub in Hampstead road, seven balling your mates, then run round the table with your pants down!!!!! :D :D Happy Birthday Mate!!

Not yet mate!

Whats it called the Sol arms or Solo arms, and where in Euston is it? It's not a pub for 'rong 'uns, is it? :shock:

:D Yes maybe even two bottles, I think you have to buy them from delta oils have never seen them in ol'frauds

Hi, Had to do some mods for the power steering belt from my NA to fit the TT engine I put in the convertible! The trouble is the stock PS belt now is too big for the the system, I think the stock belt has a 920mm circumference, I need something smaller and wondered if anyone might know of a source?

Not diasagreeing with you on any of your points just trying to clarify a few issues for everyone. No reducing the surface tension does not reduce cavitation. Cavitation and boiling are two different things! If you look at a pond in the summer you will see those bugs called water boatmen, they literally walk on the water or to be more exact the surface tension of the water. The water bubbles created by the steam coming off the turbos have a difficult time breaking that surface tension and re-entering the cooling system, which is where water wetter comes into play reducing that surface tension. Cavitation is the creation of water vapour due to the water being stretched to the point where it has no other option but to turn to vapour. Which is what would happen if you put in a larger or faster water pump, the pump would want water at a rate faster than the cooling system could supply it at, giving us cavitation! There is also no point in moving the water faster, as the water has an optimum rate over which it will pass cooling fins, and transfer heat to the exterior. I was talking about Rads with Andrew Glen the other day and I think we both agree that bigger radiators (they only cooling upgrade for a zed), only become effective when racing or your current cooling system is in trouble! Which lets face it, the Rads on zed are ten years old and are full of loads of crap, in fact the last one I backwashed was full of crud!

Hi, Been going to this place for years and they have a mature attitude to the Test. They know that the Zed does not require Cats because they are not listed by the DOT and about the amount of play in the A arms. Their name is Clapham North MOT's and their number is 0207 274 3772, tell them I sent ya and you are a member of the owners club!

Just to confuse the issue even more!! You cannot have a larger/quicker water pump because you will overun the supply causing even more cooling problems! Water wetter does not make coolant transfer heat better in the radiator, it reduces the surface tension of the water. When the coolant goes through the turbos it boils, these steam vapour bubbles then have difficulty rentering the coolant because of the waters surface tension. Water wetter reduces the surface tension of the water, helping stop the steam vapour pooling in the system and causing hot spots in the engine!

I was advised by Darren to get a pair of Long nosed, long handled, angled pliers and a crowbar with the handle on the end for working on the zed and I must admit he was right! They are the most useful things I have for working on the car! What are yours?

Cheers Guys, Haven't a chance to boot it , still another 900 miles of running in yet! The thing I am most impressed with is the home made short shifter, it is excellent, thanks to PaulG on that one! My first meet will be the royal oak this sunday, then probably Billing! I think we should have a go at another Brighton Meeting what do ya reckon?

It was a convertible I Twin Turbo'd

I am going to write an article for the Zed club and a couple of Jap mags are interested, it will have pics and a complete description of the process! I have written 15 sides of A4 so far, the cost is something I lost track of a long time ago :o

WOOHOO!! Drove it home tonight and I have to say, I had forgotten how good it was to drive a Zed!! :dance: :dance: :dance: :hyper: :hyper: :D The only problem I've got is a tendency to stall when changing down gears, but no doubt we will soon solve that! Thanks to everyone who has helped with the questions and parts!! Many thanks to Martin the mechanic, without his help when I was left up poo creek, this would of been an abandoned project!

Hi, Talking to a nissan mechanic they use the same Nissan filter for Micras etc, so I don't think the Nissan filter is anything special. Although it is hard to wander through the information and get anything meaningful out of oil filter specification. It isn't worth bodging something like oil, lets think about it we have a supercar that cost 35k in 1990 and we are debating spending £25-30 on an oil and filter change!

Yes that what I was thinking that the area used by end tanks should be used by more surface area for cooling! But water has a large thermal capacity so there must be an equilibrium where the ratio of water capacity to surface area is optimised. I think we are talking too much about cooling, I have to work tonight and I should not bring my work home :slap:

Change the oil and filter for good quality brand name fully synthetic oil and a good filter EVERY 3000 MILES!!! "NUFF SAID"

If you are using the term boiling meaning hot no problem, but I believe the water in the system does not boil until over 100+ degrees because it is pressurised! So is your rad man saying that the end tanks help distribute the water evenly throughout the core and that having a bigger end tank stops that? BTW you cannot have a larger or faster water pump fitted because of the problems with something called cavitation, this occurs when you overrun the supply. Causing vapour bubbles to be created in the coolant and the flow would be less than usual. By the way an easy way of filling the engine with coolant without it taking eons, is to take off the top rad hose at the rad tip it up and just pour the coolant in there, this is where you get air locks and also if it is attached depress it lightly with your hand and this allows the air to flow out!

It would be interesting to see , if anyone with an accurate temp gauge can make improvements to the running temp with an electric fan and aftermarket rad!

I have given a lot of thought to this lately, my other hobby of sitting alone in the dark has worn thin! The stock fan chucks out 6000cfm, now I presume that is at full revs, so averaging out the engine speed the fan flows about 3-4000cfm as a mean figure. At speeds at I believe above 40 mph the stock fan actually acts as a hindrance to air flow, so when is the fan actually of any use? It seems that from those statistics if they are correct, it would be only be of use at high engine revs when combined with low car speeds, which on a zed lasts about 3 seconds! The best electric engine fan throws out 2900cfm, which is the average speed of the zed fan! The advantage with this is that it will cool the engine when sitting in traffic at a better flow than the zed fan, which for me living in London could be an advantage!