TopLess

Hi, Tried entering my password when windows asked me to renew it, I entered what I thought was the correct password and it wasn't having it, tried with caps lock on and off, tried all variations! Is there anyway of reseting it?

I believe the US cars do have them, if you are getting aftermarket pistons then you should change them to NA squirters!

I must admit virtually every time it has happened, I have bled it! But I think I have left it and normal functioning returned!

If I bled it anymore times, the car would be throwing garlic at me and change it's emblem to a Crucifix :eek: I am thinking of seeing if the car deteriorates and if it improves when I bleed it once more I know it is air or a leak!

Hi Andy, Nothing is wet, the new slave cylinder cured the problem for a couple of weeks now it is back! Why would it only happen when the car is hot if it is a leak, does the expansion of the air cause the problem, to kick in like this?

Sorry forgot to add that I have adjusted the pedal out virtually as far it can go! No shims on the twin clutch plates, or what seems to be any form of adjustment! Did a search on TT net paul and a guy cured a similiar problem by the clutch pedal booster springs, but I can't see how the clutch booster can affect the dis/engagement point of the clutch! My other thoughts are that maybe it is a faulty clutch or faulty master cylinder?

OK, Thought I had sorted my clutch probs but they have reappeared! Here are the symptoms: When the car gets hot, and I come to a standstill i.e. in traffic, I can't get into any gear. I turn the engine off put it into gear and it starts off then the clutch will start slipping going down the road! I stop let the car cool down and it is back to normal! Also when driving it normally the biting point keeps on changing! Here is the spec, OS gilken twin carbon fibre plate clutch and flywheel! New thrust bearing Uprated Jun pivot ball SS clutch hose New Slave and Master cylinders Clutch booster tanks bypassed! Probably about five litres of dot 5.1 put through the system to bleed it! Any ideas?

Hi, My cruise control operates between 50 and 90 mph, I have heard the uk cars have a wider operating range, how do I change them over?

Fischer is not underdrive, underdrive as the name suggests have smaller diameters for racing cars worried about stressing the ancillaries like alternators too much, also to reduce the weight, the fischer is lightened! If you want info about underdrive puleys affect on cranks and engine temps search on TT.Net? I don't think enough people have them in this country to constitute effective feedback!

EERrrr that is a difficult one to answer, my previous car was a 2+2 tt, that had done 100K, the suspension had done more miles and this was a factor! My convertable has only done 30k miles and it has lower suspension than stock zeds, plus all convertables are SWB's that were transformed into convertables in America. They had considerable reinforcement placed on the rear suspension area but to be truthful I have not noticed a great differnece between the Two!

No mate, the pads came with the brakes! Andy check out the GTR forum, they have good sources or go for the DS2500, they are meant to be better!

Take the engine out!

Mike feeney trader section

I would like the suspension techniques set up, once someone buys one of kidneys on ebay!!!!!!

Things that will make your turbos spool up quicker are, Iconel manifolds Greg Dupree downpipes Get your head ported and polished, along with the lower manifold. Get a JWT mild exhaust cam along with vernier pulleys, this will make the turbo spool quicker once they are dialled in correctly. If you hate lag then get JWT 500 turbos these have the same lag as the stock turbo, but give more bhp! If you do not need an engine rebuild then do not do one, I don't think the bhp you are aiming for requires forged pistons or bottom end work!

My favourite colour as well, cchhhhhhhhaaaaaaaammmmmmmooonnnnnnnnn M**** F*****

what i want to do is basicly move the bottom line to the left by 1500 revs or so with 10-15 % on the top hopefully without the torque dropping off to quickly Could you expalin what you mean by this? Paul what have you had done to your cams?

Cheers paul, The smoking cleared up virtually after I spoke to you, it must have been the rings not being bedded in properly as you suggested. I have heard things about load before, what is the reasoning behind this?

:D :D

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=29862&highlight=pe1420+iconel Take note of my last post! The iconel manifolds and GD downpipes should cut down on lag, along with getting the heads ported and polished! Get the forged pistons and do nothing else to the bottom end it is robust, if you do all of the above you will have a monster of a car, with at least 450 RWHP!

Russ, The most important questions are: How much dosh you wanna spend? How much RWHP do you want? Then we can work within these two important parameters!

The thing is with running in, I think it is dependant upon the engine and driving conditions! I was told 500 miles by a race car mechanic, 1000 miles by most of the world and 2000 by a minority! With most of the opinions on here I try to gain an overview and pick what I believe to be the most logical, or the most balanced!

I used the cheapest oil I could find, apparently millers make a specific oil for running in! I was told a variety of miles for the completion of the running in process, 500, 1000, 2000, to be truthful I didn't even redline it when I thrashed the type R only went to 6000rpm!! Also I am only runnning safety boost!

Done all the necessary oil changes and the engine freed up as I drove it! Have now got to a 1000 miles and took it above 3000 rpm, it is very strange because it feels like the engine is still breaking in above 3000 rpm! Its like every time I go out in the car it has another 15bhp added where it has freed up from the rebuild!! Anyway a honda civic type R decided he wanted some at a roundabout the other night, not only did the car outcorner him, it absolutely left him for dust, and it isn't even fully broken in yet :D :D :D

Hi, The UD pulley can have negative effects on the crank, this is because they are not dampened. Also the underdrive pulleys have a smaller diameter, meaning that things like the water pump will rotate less, causing the engine to run hotter! I believe steve e took his set off due to this! The only lightened pulley is the Fischer pulley, this maintains the original diameter of the oem pulley and is dampened throughout the rev range! I also have an OS lightened flywheel and have no problems with maintaining 750rpm idle and creeping forward in traffic! The engine is definately more freely reving with these items, the only downsides being the drop in revs is quicker, and slightly increased tendency to stall! To explain how these items work, if you were running and placed some ankle weights on it would make it more difficult to run, if you took those weights and put them into a rucksack on your back it would be easier, it is the same principle with the engine!