olliezx

The fan is on with ignition switch, not air con, but: could a faulty "air con pressure sensor" (wherever this is!) cause the ecu to think pressure is high even when it isnt, or the a/c isnt even on, therefore keeping the fan on all the time. I found no mention of air con pressure in the manual or any research. Could this be it? Only mentions a Low Pressure Switch to drive the Compressor :confused: Thanks daveman, new light on the subject!

Thanks for the advice.Hopefully i can pop round a friend's next week to check with conzult. New ecu arriving this week so it may (fingers crossed) sort it. Although this one is chipped and the old one wasnt LOL :)

Thanks for all your suggestions guys. After some more research i am thinking that the wires that run to the ecu for a controlled earth may be getting earthed somewhere along the way. Or the ecu itself is at fault. I may just wire the earths to a switch if the new replacement ecu doesnt solve it. - The only way the fan can get power to run is if these wires are earthed. - This can only be done by the ecu. - With all relays in the fan wants to be high speed - Therefore the ecu thinks: 1) A/C is on 2) coolant is above 100c 3) speed is above 40 kph or 1) A/C is off 2) coolant is above 105c - The only input irrelevant to others is coolant temp, which i know to be right... :confused: - My dash speed readings are correct - I never use A/C anyway Thinking about it the wires running to the ecu arent shorted as its a brand new loom, ive read of the short occurring right under the fuse-box so i am going to test this today. If its not this, or solved by a new ecu, im stuck :(

What is the control mechanism for the sub fan? As mine comes on with ignition all the time. In the fusebox there was a relay missing, maybe the previous owner removed it to stop the fan running fast all the time. - On ignition the sub fan is always on at slow speed. - Plugging a relay in "SUB FAN" makes the fan run at fast mode. - Removing the "RAD FAN" relay stops the fan. Before you mention it, the EFI loom is brand new, all connectors are perfect, and both coolant temp senders are brand new. :cool: Is there a thermostat in the side of the radiator like on my Laguna? Thanks guys.

some MOT testers will fail the car with them on, easy to unbolt them for an MOT tho ;)

Someone mentioned before doing this the other way round. Set the base idle on the screw to +-700rpm with IACV connector out. Then turn the tps till revs pick up slightly and turn it back a touch. please confirm :confused:

I know the feeling!

led washer jets? :hyper: electric dump valve sound? :hyper: electric supercharger? :hyper: :confused: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: anyway firewall wires link I recommend Method 2. There you go.

edit: of course if you are handy with a soldering iron and heat-shrink its quite easy to wire in an ISO connector yourself once you have identified all the wires - which can be a nightmare! If you go this route ill send you the wire colour codes that you need to join up.

The slot size for a radio is DIN size, just about, its a tight squeeze, well on mine it was anyway. ISO is the term for the connector block on the back of the modern head-unit. If your car doesnt have an ISO block wired in already, and you are unsure what you are doing, take it to a car audio specialists and get them to wire one in. Most modern radios will then plug right into this ISO socket. Hope this helps :cool:

ok after much searching i believe this is: Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor for a California model Zed, i believe no other zed's have this sensor hence nowhere to plug it on my Jap-Spec :) Possibly useful advice if anyone else changes their harness and wonders what it is for! Also you now have a nice EFI schematic if you want to save it :) (updated the above picture)

Thanks guys for all the help :) but this is really bugging me now... I have located the wastegate actuator plug further forward on the loom. This plug is identical. See schematic i just created below, mystery plug is marked red: (I believe the loom may be for LHD as there is excess at the battery and i had to extend the PRVR solenoid lead.) Maybe a useful pic for people trying to find connectors, might have a go at tidying it up a bit ;)

those 3 plugs all come off the loom in the same place, (behind my hand!) on my old loom there are just the two rounded plugs, not this black square one.

nobody else got any ideas?

hmm i have no boost controller. I find it wierd that this plug wasnt on the original loom was is on this loom.

I replaced the EFI wiring loom a couple of weeks ago and everything runs fine although there was a spare connector which wasnt on the old loom. Just wondering if someone might shed some light on why it was there? Thanks guys.

sorry, the image is above.

I was examining the back of my engine whilst replacing the idle air hose (removed in the picture) and i noticed the hose underneath is kinked, now surely this is a bad thing for flow etc. What is in this hose before i go pulling it off and replacing it with fuel-soluble silicone or such like? My guess is plunum coolant? And just for knowledge purposes what is the hose just behind it and where does it go? ( I havent examined, just noticed in the picture) Many thanks.

i just had to change a wire that was live and completely melted and exposed in this exact loom. When someone installed the rear foglight on my import they wired the +'ve into the dash loom behind the right hand pod, the current draw had melted the entire wire. I have soldered and heat shrunk a new wire at each and and attached it to the loom. Need to sort out a new safe live for the foglight one day now. So a dodgy fog light install may be your problem.

when are you planning on going to the 'ring? im planning a road trip there in about a month when my mate has finished his 205 gti mi16.

np :nana2:

plumbing store: 2 x 3/4 2 x 1.0 copper blanking plugs 2 of each, bit of silicone and clamp it tight. all 4 for about 5 quid.

went to a plumbing shop, just for future reference to anyone else: 2 x 1" BSP copper blanking pulg 2 x 3/4" BSP copper blanking plug sorted for a fiver, use a bit of silicone and clamp up the 4 hoses.

just a quick question, do you have any of the dowelling left over mate, i dont really want to buy metre lengths of the stuff for 2 inches :) 27mm and 34mm are the two holes. Thanks.

You can run a continuity check on the PTU: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=179&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=190 Difference between s1 and s1 PTUs is here: http://www.aus300zx.com/tech/pturepair/pturepair.htm