olliezx

post a pic up, ill tell you.

Removing it will free up airflow around the passenger intercooler. This is a pic i made up from some sources (thanks to the relevant people) and printed to take out with me. May be some help.

what sort of prices are we looking at for one? interested.

... a panda ROFL every time i see this.

correct me if im wrong, but doesnt the SAFC adjust the MAF reading to create a mapped fueling? The o2 sensors are seperate to this and should be replaced if faulty regardless of the presence of a SAFC?

thanks for the reply :) The centre section is already out at the moment, the gaitor is split, kinda added to the list of "things to do sometime", along with fluid change... The reason i can hear all this noise is probably because i have nothing between me and the transmission. But this is probably good as it is amplifying problem noises. Dont know when i can next borrow use of a 4-poster, but when i do i'll check the tension rod bushes and GB mount. I know the Hicas arms need doing, maybe its time for an Energy Suspension master set! Would have had a good crawl around today but it was dark when i took her out.

If you can get your socket on it perfectly then it isnt a locking nut :) Post a pic just to be sure though. Just sounds like a siezed thread, spray it with penetrative lubricant lots and hope. If you need a new stud they arent expensive and not bad job to replace, bout half hour if you're quick, a lazy afternoon if you're not :)

thing is, do you prefer extra virgin oil? id take the virgin over the regular.. :mac1:

oi, start being useful and answer my transmission thread! Bunch of layabouts. Really..! :smash: :smash: :smash: :p

Thanks siraff, i was thinking gearbox mount for the first one, but would it really cause it to knock like that? thought i'd put it out there to see what people thought.

I just took the zed out for a run after she's been standing for a couple of weeks waiting for parts. The transmission is not all it should be, and im sure its getting worse. Firstly: Cruising along, in 3rd say, slight accellerator causes a clunk, lift off and i get a clunk 'back', both feelable throught the gearstick. What is most likely to be loose or worn? Next up: When in lower revs then you should be, i.e. using 2nd in traffic when you should be in 1st, noisy rattle from the rear. And finally: Cruising in 5th there is an audiable 'buzzing'. Sounds just like a fly is caught in the gear gaiter if you get what i mean (and no im not going to check for flys before anyone asks :smash: ) Its also audiable, though not as loud, in other gears. Thanks! ;)

Does it look like a locking nut? if it looks like the rest then it isnt. Try spraying it with wd40 for a while, you may have to force it off and replace the stud the threads are nackered.

or it could just be leaky targas, just a thought.

Just 1 more point Alonso, YOU CAN DO IT :D

Adhesive helps to stick down the seals, stop water getting under them The oil you rub in to replenish the rubber, from Tescos etc.

Weatherstrip sealant - MJP Peanut Oil - Tescos Tighten the window bolt inside the trim (behind where the seatbelt is held to the door) :)

HTH

Ring Mike at MJP, i bought some weatherstrip adhesive from him and leaks have all gone away. And yep, peanut oil is best to replenish them!

Thanks! yup have them saved already, just wondering where you got it from, and if it has been ok with fuel vapour going through it. I have left the hose open at the moment. Contemplating your overflow bottle move later on, any problems with it sonce you did it?

leave the fuel cap off for 5-10 mins to relieve pressure, also take the fuel pump fuse out of the small fuse-box :)

The ecu floats the earth under normal circumstances and connects the earth when it wants them to run, so disconnecting the ecu will mean they wont have earth and wont run. ;) In my case the earth was hardwired by somebody so it didnt matter if the ecu connected the earth or not, it was always there. Any ideas on the other insulation taped joins being oem?

I think i am going to reconnect the two wires that were cut and run the extra earth to a switch just in case the fan doesnt come on at all. Fuse Box Chaos There are other splicings within the relay box, is taped splicing OEM? I remember reading somewhere that it can be.

LOL This is the problem, this earth isnt supposed to be there as OEM. Just opened up the relay box and this has been spliced into the relay earth. Probably the easiest way to purposefully make your fan run all the time. Now im worried about the reasons why they did this :confused: maybe the actual problem is the fan doesnt come on properly... Thanks guys for pointing me to the problem, but maybe this is coverning up a new problem :(

Top thinking! Just did this and fan runs without ecu, so i know from the wiring diagram (and the fact my efi loom is brand new) that the short has to be between the relay and the EFI connectors right by the relay box, narrows things down a bit :) Owe you a pint for that spark of inspiration. But in typical british style its started raining so tests halt :( Having the fan on all the time will not only wear it out faster but sap power. There is a link somewhere on how to have it on a switch, involves earthing ecu pins 19 (slow speed) and 6 (fast speed (TT only)) through a switch.

waiting for someone to point that out, no, its connected, i just took the photo when i moved the fuse box to fit the BOV. :)