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After purchasing my first zed 3 weeks ago ive decided to give her an oil change, i know this is pretty straight forward but does anyone have some sort of guide i can follow iam not very mechanically minded so any help would be great.

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Before you start it is recommended that the car is warm to allow the oil to drain easier.

 

1) either jack the car up or drive the car up onto a set of blocks / ramps

2) open the bonnet and remove the oil filler cap and dip stick.

3) get yourself an oil pan, a 14mm or 17mm socket (Can never remember which one it is) and chain wrench or other oil filter removal tool.

4) get under the car with all items in no. 3

5) place the oil can under the sump nut and unscrew it.

6) Once all the flow of oil has slowed use the chain wrench to remove the oil filter located next to the sump.

7) Once all that oil has drained rub a little oil around the rubber rings of the new oil filter and screw into place.

8) replace the sump nut and if you have it the bronze washer (new one required every 2 - 3 oil changes).

9) The engine will now be waiting for 3.4 litres of engine oil.

10) work out how much 3.4 litres is from your fresh oil and either use a funnel or roll up a piece of magazine (front/back cover is better) into a cone and pour away, leave a small gap around the edge of the funnel and the engine hole to increase flow (i.e. oil in air out).

11) Once it's all done, give her a good wipe down.

12) Start the engine and let the oil circulate for a couple of mins, good time to check for leaks form the filter or sump nut.

13) if all is well, turn the engine off and lower the car, removing axle stands and chocks.

14) Test the oil level via the dip stick (should not need any topping up at this stage, but make a note of where the level is so you can compare it in a months time.)

 

Hope that helps.

Edited by SMW1
Included points made by others from this thread.

Forgot to ask, I asummed it was a TT rather than an NA, so te 3.4 litres of oil if for a TT. Not sure if it's different for an NA.

Make sure the oil is hot (careful!) otherwise it will not drain properly! also ALWAYS use a new sump washer as it is a crushable item and is only good for one use. I had one supplied to me with my oil filter. if you dont, it is a standard part and easily obtainable (i have seen packs of them in halfords)

 

i am told it is best to put about 2/3rds of the oil in, let the engine run for a couple of mins, to let it drain to the sump then top up with the rest.

 

tighten the new oil filter hand (grease/oil free) tight only.

 

and also remove the dip stick at stage "2" of SMW1's walk through. - not essential but helps flow of oil.

 

if anything else springs to mind i will let you know. good luck. J.

I've amended the post to include the dip stick and warming of the car.

The other bits you mentioned are I suppose open to debate.

 

I know it's good practice to replace the washer each time, but isn't really necessary. I've done about 15 oil changes on mine since I;ve had it and only used about 5 washers.

 

Not sure of the relevance of 2/3's of the oil and then start the car ?.

Can you elaborate on this one ?

I think its always good practice to fill the new filter with oil before fitting it,normaly about half a ltr on a Z,saves the engine running dry for those vital few seconds,with the PTU disconected so it does not fire up,turn engine over for 30 secs just to get it lubed up,then reconect.

 

Tony

I think its always good practice to fill the new filter with oil before fitting it,normaly about half a ltr on a Z,saves the engine running dry for those vital few seconds,with the PTU disconected so it does not fire up,turn engine over for 30 secs just to get it lubed up,then reconect.

 

Tony

 

Wouldn't disconnecting the PTU and cranking for 30 seconds fill the cylinders with fuel and risk flooding the engine ?

 

 

Do people really go through all this lot just to change the oil ?.. It seems like we are making suck a simple task into something very long winded.

 

I know when I change the oil I simply, unbolt, unscrew, drain, bolt up, screw on and fill.

To be honest Stuart its common practice to fill the filter before fittin,on some cars though its not possible,like M5 E34 beemers,as the filter is in top engine bay and filter faces thread down.As for excess fuel,no should not be a problem,would rather have oil round me internals first before i fire any engine up anyways.I never had a problem doing any car this way.

Tony:cool:

Edited by TonyC
info

copper washer does not need to be renewed, if your putting mega torque on the sump plug then your over tightening it. It is however advised that you anneal the washer, heat it with a butane/propane torch until cherry red then quench in water. the annealing process will soften the washer making it fine to be reused. When you put the new filter on, smear only a very thin film of new oil onto the rubber seal and make sure the mating face is totally clean. You may have to prime the filter depending on type, it will say on the filter box or body. Tightening the filter should be done by hand, screw it in until the faces mate then about another half turn by hand is enough, its the seal that makes it tight, not the ammount of torque on the filter.

 

Not sure of the relevance of 2/3's of the oil and then start the car ?.

Can you elaborate on this one ?

 

 

Not sure of the reason behind it, i was just told to do so by zedworld who, to be fair, know what they are doing.

 

As for the washer, i agree it is good practice and not 100% essential, but good practice none the less as sometimes, if you are unlucky, it will not do its job. (i guess if you do intend to re-use just keep an eye on it for a while after)

 

and finaly the oil filter. Again good practice to put oil into it if you can. i have always done so in all my cars and lawn mowers.

 

but then i suppose you get folk who flush out their systems entirly with a special liquid/compresser and i have never done that. i guess it just comes down to how thourougher you are!

  • 2 months later...

About to change my oil-plenty of good advice here. Im no expert, but i am one of those folk who like to drain it, fill with cheap oil and engine flush, run for twenty minutes, then drain again before filling with new oil, which i believe helps flush out all the sludgy black residue, if there is any!

take it to kwik fit, 35 quid for a full change using mobil1 0w30, easy!!!!

 

Or ATS - they use Shell Helix Ultra fully synth 5w40.......

 

.......about the same price IIRC, you can barely buy the oil for that at a Shell garage!!

 

Richard:)

I have something to say............ It's better to burn out than to fade away..... :tt2:

One thing I always do is flush through a litre of additional oil through the engine so any old oil that sat at the bottom of the pan comes out. Our cars take 3.4 litres of oil, so that gives me over a litre to flush out with if buying 5 litres worth.

 

copper washer does not need to be renewed, if your putting mega torque on the sump plug then your over tightening it. It is however advised that you anneal the washer, heat it with a butane/propane torch until cherry red then quench in water. the annealing process will soften the washer making it fine to be reused.

 

 

That's one hell of a rigmoral to go through for what is a 10p part!

Edited by FunkySi

was suprised what a easy change it is to do!! compared with some cars and got 2 free sump washer's with filter from nissan:dance:

was suprised what a easy change it is to do!! compared with some cars and got 2 free sump washer's with filter from nissan:dance:

 

You got the one that didn't come with mine then!! LOL. Luckily I found a suitable compression washer, so no worries there.

You got the one that didn't come with mine then!! LOL. Luckily I found a suitable compression washer, so no worries there.

 

yeah was shocked me self ! and a 10% discount of the filter

 

my face must have fitted for once :D

Wow, never heard an oil change discussed in such detail! :-)

 

LOL

 

Exactly, just narrow it all down.

TAke car for drive to get it warm, jack up, empty old oil and remove filter

Fit new filter and oil.

Remove jack, check levels and drive off.

 

Love to see this thread if it was about removing the zed engine and box.

I am sure the Health and Safety people need to get involved in this, Oh hang on, I think they allready have.....

 

As has been said, a simple task made into an ordeal.

can you put too much oil in?

 

obviously i dont mean so its spilling out the oil cap,

 

i mean if you put say 6 litres of oil in?

 

bad?

The question needs to be asked.

 

If you need to ask these questions, should you be doing the oil change?

 

And yes, too much oil is bad.

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