Hi there guys,

 

Just signed up to this forum after browsing for quite some time as a guest! I've read lots of articles, and trawled back through all the cars for sale this year. The misses got so fed up she went back to bed...whoops! :rolleyes:

 

Anyway, despite reading loads, there are still a few questions that I have. What are the differences between the UK cars and the Jap imports? I understand that the uk cars suffer from more rust, have more power but are cheaper to insure? Is that right? Are there any other differences?

 

I'm sure I'd want a TT manual, not to fussed on the colours, but is there any more info on whats good or not good to look at buying?

 

Many thanks,

 

Matt

Have a read of the Buyers Guide:

 

http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/BuyingZ.htm

Cool, I've had a read through that but it still doesnt tell me what the differences are between a UK and a Jap car. Any advice?

Hi there guys,

 

Just signed up to this forum after browsing for quite some time as a guest! I've read lots of articles, and trawled back through all the cars for sale this year. The misses got so fed up she went back to bed...whoops! :rolleyes:

 

Anyway, despite reading loads, there are still a few questions that I have. What are the differences between the UK cars and the Jap imports? I understand that the uk cars suffer from more rust, have more power but are cheaper to insure? Is that right? Are there any other differences?

 

I'm sure I'd want a TT manual, not to fussed on the colours, but is there any more info on whats good or not good to look at buying?

 

Many thanks,

 

Matt

 

theres no differance in power between uk and import

a few differances are imports have electic folding mirrors, differant speedometer readings, however most imports have been converted to read in MPH

imports were built until 2000

uk cars i think were late 94 when production seized so the newest uk model would be an M registration

all uk cars are 2+2 targa auto/manual

imports there is non turbo/2seater TT/2+2 targa/slicktop/convertible.

import models have lap belts for the rear seats but 3 point ones can be fitted

wheel sizes are slightly wider on the uk model being 8" opposed to 7.5"

import autos have smaller cooling radiator, so make sure you fit an aftermarket oil cooler if its a fresh import etc

there is things im missed so im sure people will add to this. As im going from out of my head

 

 

not all uk cars are rusty, however due to the fact we use so much salt on the roads over here its more likely to suffer from rust issues especially after 15 years. Dont be to put off though! as its down to how well the cars looked after!

 

UK cars tend to be cheaper to insure as there is more knowledge of mileage, history and the like

 

when buying i would suggest you either a) buy from a reputable person from here who has a good knowledge of the 300zx, or use the buyers guide and ideally ask someone off here to come along with you, as there is bound to be someone who lives local? maybe go to a meet and have a look around

 

there is a nice uk model in the for sale section which is red and manual and looks a good buy

 

dont buy to cheap as this will normally indicate either poor condition or running issues

 

manual models are more desirable so tend to fetch a bit more, although check 4th syncro but other than the that the z32 transmission is spot on

 

autos are far more likely to have problems in there life, more likely on an import model which has poor cooling, unless an aftermarket cooler has been fitted.

 

check sills and rear arches for rust, this seems to be the worst area for rust on the 300zx less likey around the front end

 

on the test drive check boost gauge needle is going to the far right/but not of the scale but not sitting in the middle which may indicate a seized turbo or similar problem

 

make sure the car has had frequant oil changes and good service history

 

most problems with such a car, are down to poor service.

 

things to look out for

 

vibrations at low speeds up to and around 60mph may indicate knackered prop shaft bearing (fairly common around £200 to fix)

 

skipping rear end (rear shocks approx £35 each +fitting) or worn hicas parts

 

in auto guise check all gears will select(downside is you may need to get above 100 mph to make sure your getting final gear)

 

manual make sure all gears are smooth, 1st is tight from cold which is normal, most common problem is a notchy 5-4th or 4-5th selection (again infrequant as the z32 is a good box

 

as with any car check for oil leaks/smoke or rattles a good 300zx will sound quit on tickover with no odd noises

 

car should pull smooth with no hesitation if idle is erratic it may mean a boost leak in the intake systym or a fault on the electrical side.

 

check your rear view mirror for any smoke on boost or overrun, which may indicate turbo failure

 

if car rumbles at idel it will mean there is a cylinder down, whih is failry common asnd normally a simple fix, either coilpack/plug/connector or ptu

 

if you have time and someone with knowledge get the car compression tested, it will be a good sign the engine is in good health, last thing you want is a lemon with expensive bills

 

if the car dont feel allright walkaway, i had my 300zx for 2 years and had no problems! so again if your unsure about SH/quality walk away.

 

summary

take someone who knows what there looking at!

dont buy the first you see, unless its mint and has records to show so!

bare in mind its a performace car nearing on 17 years old in some cases, you should keep some money in the bank id say £1500 this is worst case scenario as if turbo s fail its engine out. Dont be put off as these cars are well built, although any 300hp car will have problems wether it be expensive tyres/frequant oil changes/turbo replacements :D

 

average cost of parts vary, but iv driven alot of japanese cars and the 300zx is the best GT of the lot, roofs come off for the summer and you can do long journeys and still smile by the end of it!! comfort levels are perfect, expect 30mpg on long motorway journeys and around town maybe 20mpg so not terrible

 

power is smooth or should be! 3rd gear has more torque than you can throw a stick at! and never seems to end, gearing is spot on IMO and in a good car doing 120+ feels like your doing 60mph(private test track off mine in the garden)

 

enjoy but tread carefully, there are some poor examples which tend to put the shade on the good ones.

 

greg

http://www.300zx.org.uk/model_variations.htm

i think the only uk cars are LWB targa TT's. anything that is SWB, slicktop or N/A's are jap imports.

blimey greg, were you bored !? LOL

Baby keeping him awake!

blimey greg, were you bored !? LOL

lol well.. misses was shopping, it was raining, and fancied typing :D

bloody good effort!

Greg, thanks for that mammoth answer! Just what i wanted! I'm in the process of trying to sell my modded Ford Focus, so as soon as thats gone, I'll be in the market for one of these. I went and sat in one at a local garage to check that i could actually fit in it (6'7" tall!) and thankfully, it was a nice sporty driving pisition for me. The clutch was really heavy though. It was apparently standard apart from the exhaust, but is it normal to have a really heavy clutch compared to a modern car?

mine is a jdm manual tt but i believe it to have a standard clutch and is seriously light on the pedal!

6ft 7?????????????????

6ft 7?????????????????

jesus he needs 2 zeds :eek: one for each foot :D

Buy mine, its cool

...after-market clutch. The original's light.

Greg, thanks for that mammoth answer! Just what i wanted! I'm in the process of trying to sell my modded Ford Focus, so as soon as thats gone, I'll be in the market for one of these. I went and sat in one at a local garage to check that i could actually fit in it (6'7" tall!) and thankfully, it was a nice sporty driving pisition for me. The clutch was really heavy though. It was apparently standard apart from the exhaust, but is it normal to have a really heavy clutch compared to a modern car?

 

 

That'll be a nice shock for you going from a Focus to a zed lol. I love that loud pedal!!!! :bow:

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Things have gone a bit obsessive now. I was working nights when I posted my last post, and got home and was really tired. The misses was awake when i was sleeping, and apparently I was talking about 300zx's in my sleep, and told her there was one on the driveway!!!!!! :D :wack:

Greg, thanks for that mammoth answer! Just what i wanted! I'm in the process of trying to sell my modded Ford Focus, so as soon as thats gone, I'll be in the market for one of these. I went and sat in one at a local garage to check that i could actually fit in it (6'7" tall!) and thankfully, it was a nice sporty driving pisition for me. The clutch was really heavy though. It was apparently standard apart from the exhaust, but is it normal to have a really heavy clutch compared to a modern car?

 

Was engine running, the clutch is vacumn assisted to make it lighter. Will be very heavy when engine off though.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: Things have gone a bit obsessive now. I was working nights when I posted my last post, and got home and was really tired. The misses was awake when i was sleeping, and apparently I was talking about 300zx's in my sleep, and told her there was one on the driveway!!!!!! :D :wack:

4 posts on the forum and hes already got the bug! welcome to the club buddy ;)

...after-market clutch. The original's light.

its one of 2

 

a) leak in the clutch servo systym

b)aftermarket clutch plate

c)car was not running so no assistance

Just a rough ball park figure, how much does one of these cost to keep on the road each year? I have been told that I will spend at least £2000 a year on general maintenance, which is a touch steep! I'd only be doing about 3000 miles per year, so thats quite expensive!

2k wtf?

 

no mate that woiuld be a shed not a zed, mine cost bog all all last year!!

Here's some ballpark figures, not to put you off just to be realistic. As said above you COULD go a year without doing anything (I did with my last Zed almost) but this is unlikely. I've just bought another standard zed with full service history and generally a nice good car and its cost me £500 for a clutch, £100 for brake pads, and soon a little more to get the door locks sorted. I've had it for one week!

 

Running costs :

Set of good tyres a year (if you rag it or have a powerful one then 2 rear sets isn't unusual):

front roughly £250 pair

rear roughly £300 pair

 

Insurance: subjective, get a quote before hand. 5k for 30yr old with some points maybe £6-800 third party fire and theft! so £60 a month

 

Other potential maintaince costs to keep in mind when buying:

All these things tend to need replacing around 80k ish. Many last a lot longer but keep it in mind if it hasn't been done.

Clutch replacement: £350 + £150 labour

Turbos:around £1200 (try to get already reconned ones as this is the biggest cost problem)

Auto gearbox: £1200 (as above, manuals are more desirable and much easier to sell)

 

 

I personally think £1k is a realistic figure to have aside for maintainance per year and another 1k for problems. Most cars that have not had anything spent over the last year have probably had a grand spent the year before at this age!

Hello all, my first post here... I was just going to write something similar and Matt has got there first! Super!

 

I have had a series of quick stuff and always hankered after a 300ZX BITD but kids and work got in the way.

 

The way is clear now. I am saving like a trooper and my christmas present to me this year is a Manual 300ZX.. Oh yeah. I don't mind if it is Turbo or not or import or not but it must be 2+2. Oh! I'll have about £4k to spend.

I've bought mine for the summer, so give me a call later in the year and it may be for sale :)