newish member here. just wondering how reliable these cars are. i've had a 200sx (ca18det) and i've had no end of problems. hoping that these engines are more reliable, i'm heading towards the twin turbo :D

also i was wondering what the difference is between the import and the UK models.

thanks for any help.

Dan

If you buy one that has been owned buy the same owner for several years, got full history, had oil changed every 3000 to 4000 miles with good grade oil, is well kept up to even if its been modified or not. Then you'll expect to pay up to £10k even now. I know of three that have sold in the last 4 months for between £9K and £10K, but you'll have something that you know is sorted and you'll get plenty of enjoyment out of it.

 

However it is a car and things can go that were unforseen, but the right car and you've should be confident that the usualy major problems have been ironed out or delt with.

 

The real problem with these cars is not the car. Its the people that buy them and think they are a bugget super car. There's no such thing and to keep and maintain it will cost as much as a Porsche, Ferrari or Lambo. If corners have been cut it will come back to haunt you.

 

Wise words there.... :bow:

 

Essentially the car itself is reliable - it is a Nissan afterall :cool:

 

But age, bad maintenance and extreme modifications without upgrading essentials take their toll.

 

I have no problems in almost 4 years with my UK spec TT auto, it has covered over 85k miles now and the left turbo oil seal is starting to go bad. (since I fitted a less restrictive exhaust the symptoms have become a little aparent).

 

It still runs perfectly and doesn't consume oil or water so I have no complaints.

 

Richard :)

I think these cars have really hit rock bottom now and the price wont reduce much more. If anything I think they will start to increase in the near future, esp for good condition standard cars.

 

I also agree with si, the more you are willing to pay the better car you will get. I only paid 3k for my car and it should be a shitter but its not, its a minter but I got lucky. The other cars I looked at around the same price were cack.

i'd just like to add that my car ran perfectly for 130,000 miles on original turbos at 15 psi and never a spot of bother. It failed within 2 weeks of coming from the body shop.

 

I learn recently that when the body shop owner was out the young lads were ragging my car from cold and racing round the industrial estate.

 

So who's to say the original engine wouldn't still be going strong now if it hadn't suffered such abuse.

Stick with an NA, 225bhp is enough and you get more torque lower down

i'd just like to add that my car ran perfectly for 130,000 miles on original turbos at 15 psi and never a spot of bother. It failed within 2 weeks of coming from the body shop.

 

That sort of thing makes me really really really mad. I hope they paid for new ones.

 

This is why I am reluctant to take my car to a bodyshop....UNLESS, there's a way of 'disabling the turbos' so to speak.

I also agree with si, the more you are willing to pay the better car you will get. I only paid 3k for my car and it should be a shitter but its not, its a minter but I got lucky. The other cars I looked at around the same price were cack.

 

How did you get lucky :headvswal

You shopped around avoided the Cack and bought a car at the going rate in a depressed market

I really don't understand this at all and I don't want to argue

but JEEEEEEZUS THE shitter quotes just do not stand up

Look at ROYALS poll in General

This is why I am reluctant to take my car to a bodyshop....UNLESS, there's a way of 'disabling the turbos' so to speak.

LOL - fit RLTC and impose a temporary 2k rev limit whilst it's in there ;)

 

Steve :)

LOL - fit RLTC and impose a temporary 2k rev limit whilst it's in there ;)

 

Steve :)

Or you could just unplug tha MAF ;)

How did you get lucky :headvswal

You shopped around avoided the Cack and bought a car at the going rate in a depressed market

I really don't understand this at all and I don't want to argue

but JEEEEEEZUS THE shitter quotes just do not stand up

Look at ROYALS poll in General

 

He got lucky because out of ALL the cheap crap, he found a good one. The more you pay, the chances of buying a nice tidy one are greatly increased. Not always, but mostly the case. It's the law of averages. Surely you must be able to see that.

Or you could just unplug tha MAF ;)

 

Will it even run with the MAF unplugged? I guess it will go into limp mode?

That sort of thing makes me really really really mad. I hope they paid for new ones.

 

This is why I am reluctant to take my car to a bodyshop....UNLESS, there's a way of 'disabling the turbos' so to speak.

 

Get a rev limiter sset it at 2000 rpm and lock it in gluv box. They carn't harm you engine then.

How do you do that then?

The Z marcZ32 got off me is the one I drove as a main car for two years in snow, rain you name it.

 

The only thing I had to buy was new tyres, that’s why I got another one (a manual this time).

 

It’s like any high performance car, Rx7’s have a bad rep but like any cars like this you need to know how to treat them.

Don’t thrash it till it’s up to temp or you will kill the turbo’s and the engine.

I’ve got a turbo timer and dump valves to help the life of important bits.

 

Things go wrong but so do all high spec cars.

 

Good luck

 

Paul

How do you do that then?

 

I'm having one made by OMEX. Fully vairiable with full throttle shift and launch control and they are looking at traction control function and auto rev limit on temp, but the temp limiter isn't isn't a definate. They say it will cost about £200 to £250.

 

You can get rev limiters with launch and F/T shift for about £90

 

Omex, Armtech, Mycro Dynamics and Lumenition all make them and they can be set so that you have to manually overide it everytime you start your car. So if anyone nicks it they can only drive a 2000rpm and will proberbly dump it because it wount go properly.