Thought I'd start a separate thread about this particular ECU as it really interested me.

 

The ECU is the Link G4+ and its a direct plug in replacement for the standard zed ECU.

 

 

General retail price I have been quoted is £910 plus vat which matches up with what I see on ebay.

 

I managed to get a glance of one of these ECU's today as it was getting fitted to a Skyline which

apparently uses the same connections as the zed.

 

This is a MAP device so when hooked up properly you can disconnect the standard MAF.

 

Options available that was recommended to me but i'm unsure about is to replace the standard

O2 sensors and install new wideband Sensors along with the wide band controller from link, these

are also about 290 plus vat each for the Kit.

 

Lastly you need your other addon sensors, like, water temp, Oil Temp / Pressure and so on.

 

What i'm trying to figure out is what exactly do I need minimum now to get this to work.

 

Extra sensors I can add on later, just trying to keep costs down for now.

This is the CAN - Lambda sensor

 

http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda

 

I believe it can also work with the MAF sensor, it is full plug and play with existing setup, but you can change to a MAP sensor if you want.

 

LINK did a 50% off promotion back in February i think, and i discussed the MAF with the distributor at the time.

 

Some of the ebay ones might be from people that took advantage of that deal, or there may be some retailers who managed to bag a few at that price...

There are not a lot of people in the UK running standalone management on 300ZXs.

I do.

Here is what I use.

I run an Emerald ECU. This was installed for me by John Dixon. Its not plug n play.

I have a wide band lambda sensor with a controller and an AFR gauge fitted.

John advised that the standard O2 sensor location is too close to the engine so I have a boss welded on a decat pipe to take it.

Mine is all Tech Edge brand as that was John's preference.

obviously I dont run a MAF any more as the fully mapped ECU now controls the engine.

I have an air inlet temp sensor fitted in a stripped out MAF body.

The ECU also reads std water temp from the original Nissan sender unit.

Thats it.

It works

I like it. :thumbup:

It has its upsides:thumbup1: and its downsides.:thumbdown:

Lots of people will have a variety of opinions on the whole standalone route.

Some of whom wont even have one fitted.:whistling:

G4+ Installation manual for Z32:

 

Link G4+ Z32 installation manual N300+.pdf

 

Product description from one of the retailers (near me):

 

https://shopbhp.com/products/link-g4-300zlink-n300-plugin-fits-the-nissan-300zx-z32

 

I have an email from Pro Tuner, listing all the various options when I enquired last year about fitting mine. I will have a look over the weekend, and post up whatever info was provided

 

All being well, next year should finally see it being fitted. :yes:

Bump,

 

So I'm looking for the following as minimum :

 

Link G4 ECU

AIT Sensor

 

Additional options :

 

Lambda modules for 2x O2 Sensors (do these replace stock sensors ?)

Boost Control Solenoid

Hi Mike,

 

When going for the wide band sensors i'm I correct in thinking you need one for each exhaust port ?

 

Is the factory position ok for these or do I weld in a mount further down ?

Out of interest, who’s going to map the car Once the Link is in place?

Hi Mike,

 

When going for the wide band sensors i'm I correct in thinking you need one for each exhaust port ?

 

Is the factory position ok for these or do I weld in a mount further down ?

 

You do not have to use 2 sensors but it's best. The VG will have a leaner bank usually the passenger side as the fuel feeds in from the drivers side so it can be fitted that side and tuned from that. And no you can not use the factory sensor positioning it has to be test pipe or the sensors will fail prematurely

I've ordered two wideband sensors and I'll get my garage to weld in new bosses for them.

 

Likely down where the cat sensors used to be then I can bring the sensor cables in via the old route under the seats.

I'm getting rid of the maf and going for a dual intake, wheres the best place to put the ait sensor?

New ecu ordered and dispatched along with a few sensors.

 

Still to get the lambda sensors ordered.

Reading up on this on the link forums and the recommended place is about a meter or so down from the turbos.

 

Just dropped off my pipes to my garage and i'll get them to fit new boses, then i'll run the cables up via the old holes for the cat sensors.

Strange I’ve had my ones here for the last 2 years and no issues yet, fitted many here also and no issues so far. I use AEM but I’ve heard stories of other brands failing early. Maybe this is the case??

 

The AEM install instructions for the wide bands I fitted for my Fail safe gauges, state a minimum distance of 18" downstream from the exhaust port & a minimum angle, greater than 10 degrees - see below

 

The AEM install instructions for the wide bands I fitted for my Fail safe gauges, state a minimum distance of 18" downstream from the exhaust port & a minimum angle, greater than 10 degrees - see below

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]114633[/ATTACH]

 

It actually states a minimum of 36” downstream on a turbocharged car for certain wideband sensors which makes putting them in the stock o2 sensor position a bit of a silly gamble really. I’d say you’ve been lucky Mike but I’d get them moved to avoid premature failure.

 

Edited October 2, 20187 yr by Joely P

Well that answers my queries then. I’ll leave my ones where they are until they fail lol

 

Why don't you just move them to the correct locations?

It would also be a pain in the tits as its a custom loom and the cables would have to be routed a different way.

 

I’ve deifted my car a lot. I’ve even driven it to Germany and laped the ring. They still work fine. New parts can fail just as old can too. Why move them if they work?

Why fix something that’s not broken?

 

It's called 'preventative maintenance'.