Hi I need a new rad for my Manual NA, is a Manual TT rad a straight fit or does it require modification

 

THanks in advance for any help

Silicone is fine. Some 30cm Ash hose will do you fine for a fiver on Amazon.

Anyone know how long these bypass hoses are in MM

Can't u just measure the old ones when u get them off?

Yes could always measure when taking the old ones off but would be helpful to know as I am ordering straight 30mm silicone hose which comes in varying lengths & don't want to not quite have enough

Yes could always measure when taking the old ones off but would be helpful to know as I am ordering straight 30mm silicone hose which comes in varying lengths & don't want to not quite have enough

 

There like 12cm long you will have enough

OK guys, have ordered the hose for the bypass, removed rad, removed fan, and have managed to remove the thermostat housing, however one of the M6 socket caps (the one you cant see without a mirror) has been butchered by a previous owner/mechanic all the socket caps and nuts are removed except that one, seems almost impossible to get to

 

Anyone had this problem & found a satisfactory solution, I am a bit stuck now

one of the M6 socket caps (the one you cant see without a mirror) has been butchered by a previous owner/mechanic all the socket caps and nuts are removed except that one, seems almost impossible to get to

 

Anyone had this problem & found a satisfactory solution, I am a bit stuck now

 

Oh seen this sooo many times, ok usually the issue is caused by previous attempts to undo with the m6 hex tool not deep enough into the head of the bolt and the bolts are a little soft, now as this damaged the tip section, you need to ensure it is clear of any grime / dirt /oil, then actually hammer the hex tool in, this will make it go further down and grab more undamaged metal and the tapping helps to crack the bolt.

 

Be patient, the better grip you get down the bolt the better the chance of it coming undone, when your ready take it easy and make a slow undo motion, if it feels ok carry on if not hammer it in again. It sounds a bit harsh but I have never failed to release one if these bolts using this method.

 

Good luck

 

Jeff

You mean bolts or the Allen heads?

You mean bolts or the Allen heads?

 

 

OK guys, have ordered the hose for the bypass, removed rad, removed fan, and have managed to remove the thermostat housing, however one of the M6 socket caps (the one you cant see without a mirror) has been butchered by a previous owner/mechanic all the socket caps and nuts are removed except that one, seems almost impossible to get to

 

Anyone had this problem & found a satisfactory solution, I am a bit stuck now

 

This type of tool should do the job:

 

https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?32269

 

The craftsman set referred to is no longer available:

 

https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low-profile-bolt-out

 

However, there are equivalents:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-bolt-nut-remover-set-6-pieces/6083d

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p63045

You mean bolts or the Allen heads?

 

A bolt is a bolt Ali, the head design can vary and will be a prefix. A standard bolt is a hex head bolt. Then obviously there’s the shoulder, thread pitch and the grade.

The offending bolt and the tool that removed it.

 

Andrew, what size and manufacturer is the pictured removal tool please, and do you need to hammer the tool on to the socket cap before attempting removal also did you use brute force of a air hammer

 

Many Thanks

Made by Craftsman (see my earlier post #24 on alternatives) marked #8. The bolt head diameter is 13mm.

The tool is case hardened and cuts into the bolt head and grips it as you turn it counterclockwise. Just use

a ratchet handle and push the tool firmly onto the head of the bolt and turn.

I have a set like this. Cost about £13 and never let me down. Great tool to have

A bolt is a bolt Ali, the head design can vary and will be a prefix. A standard bolt is a hex head bolt. Then obviously there’s the shoulder, thread pitch and the grade.

I do understand this apologies. A hex head or allen head would have been a better question, as the upper water pipes use both.

Hi all

 

Thanks to AndrewG for tool recommendation, after a bit if a struggle its off, I have removed the Bypass hoses but the condition of the steel tubes bolted to the block are in very poor condition, so if anyone knows the part number or even better has a pair they would be willing to sell me I would be most grateful.

 

These cars certainly have a Interesting design round the cooling system, it seems very prone to failure with those two bypass hoses and the mix of materials used, will be spending the afternoon trying to locate a replacement socket cap

 

The two aluminium hose connectors appear to have been sealed with a liquid gasket and the Socket caps have been treated with threadlock, is this the recommended procedure for refitting these items ?

 

Thanks again for everyone's help

The two aluminium hose connectors appear to have been sealed with a liquid gasket and the Socket caps have been treated with threadlock, is this the recommended procedure for refitting these items ?

 

Liquid gasket sealer is specified (KP610-00250 or equivalent) for the aluminium inlet and outlet pipe connections. Threadlock on the

socket caps not required - see below from FSM (also shows correct torque settings for the bolts).

 

 

Part#'s and pictures for the items affected (from a US dealer):

 

https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-300zx-coolant-bypass-tube-90-96-z32-14053-f651a_p_1914.php

https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-300zx-water-pipe-coolant-outlet-bolt-90-96-300zx-z32-16163-f6510_p_4990.php

https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-infiniti-nissan-oem-coolant-bypass-hose-nissan-300zx-z32-14055-f6511_p_1000.php

think i might be entering into the same issue, was going to take my daughter to her prom only to be losing water not massive a amount but did see a small amount on the under shield. Also with heater on full there was no hot air. Along with that the coolant looks very rusty.

 

So again thoughts welcome. But looking at the above could poss be the connections on the bypass and maybe the heater flap and not a head gasket(no gunk on oil cap)

Mine was a fairly long journey and having been told it was the Rad leaking, just made sure it was topped up when we stopped for fuel, when the gauge started climbing and we pulled off the road, coolant was pooling under the front of the car, have a look when its been running, through the fan towards the front of the engine I could see water coming from what appeared to be the water pump but on closer inspection the coolant was coming from above the water pump.

 

When I eventually got the aluminium casting for my top (the one with the sending units in) only one of the Bypass hoses had a hole in it but it does not need to be very big once the coolant comes out of the hose it was spraying down the block, hitting the fan and sending it everywhere.

Ok guys, my hoses have arrived, showing how inept I am at this, can someone please clarify before I start :

 

1) The RTV silicone sealant needs to be applied to one of the mounting surfaces for the two stubby tubes that mount on the block to take the bypass hoses

 

2) The RTV silicone sealant needs to be applied to one mounting surface on the top hose connector where it mounts to the block (the one with the sensors in)

 

3) The RTV silicone sealant needs to be applied to the recess that takes the thermostat

 

4) The RTV silicone sealant needs to be applied to one mounting surface of the thermostat housing (bottom hose fitting)

 

5) Do I use the same RTV silicone sealant on the inside of the bypass hoses where they mount on the top hose aluminium casting & on the stumps coming off the block

 

 

Please let me know how much of this I have got wrong

 

 

Many Thanks again for everyone's help

Silicone all but not 5.

 

You can usually tell things with silicone as they have a little groove for it

Morning Alic, the top hose ally casting has a groove in it, but the thermostat housing is smooth on its mounting surface and on the block where it mounts also the stubby tubes that mount on the block are also smooth on both the block and the tube mounting face, so do i put just a small bead of sealant on one surface ?

Correct. Not too much.

 

Best idea is to tighten the bolts down finger tight and leave for about half an hour, then clamp down. This way it doesn't force all the rtv out the way and creates a good seal

where did you get the stubby couplers from?