Hi I need a new rad for my Manual NA, is a Manual TT rad a straight fit or does it require modification

 

THanks in advance for any help

Hi I need a new rad for my Manual NA, is a Manual TT rad a straight fit or does it require modification

 

THanks in advance for any help

TT rads are narrower to accommodate the intercooler piping. The mounting points are also different. In short no it’s not a straight swap and requires brackets etc. Easiest to stick with designated spec.

TT rads are narrower to accommodate the intercooler piping. The mounting points are also different. In short no it’s not a straight swap and requires brackets etc. Easiest to stick with designated spec.

Thanks for the reply, well that shoots that in the foot then, anyone got a Manual NA rad in good condition they want a new home for ?

Thanks for the reply, well that shoots that in the foot then, anyone got a Manual NA rad in good condition they want a new home for ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIATOR-ENGINE-COOLING-WATER-NISSAN-300-ZX-MAXIMA-AUTOMATIC/191952035433?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3A300+ZX&hash=item2cb13b9e69:g:7C4AAOSwHoFXsw2G

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissens-Radiator-62980-Fit-with-Nissan-Maxima/321040205422?epid=1616348375&hash=item4abf7cc66e:g:arMAAMXQCgpRpg1B

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]112932[/ATTACH]

Edited June 13, 20187 yr by JeffTT

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIATOR-ENGINE-COOLING-WATER-NISSAN-300-ZX-MAXIMA-AUTOMATIC/191952035433?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3A300+ZX&hash=item2cb13b9e69:g:7C4AAOSwHoFXsw2G

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissens-Radiator-62980-Fit-with-Nissan-Maxima/321040205422?epid=1616348375&hash=item4abf7cc66e:g:arMAAMXQCgpRpg1B

 

 

Edited June 13, 20187 yr by JeffTT

Thanks for the replies, just got in after a disastrous day, the garages diagnosis of a pinhole in the radiator (just make sure you keep it topped up until you get the rad for us to fit) has turned out to be what I assume is a water pump failure, I say this as I am no expert but the temp gauge started going over the halfway mark and when I pulled over and opened the bonnet there was coolant coming from the front of the engine under the cover for the cam belt and going all over the cast housing that the two Radiator hoses connect to this is probably not the best description but any ideas confirming or disagreeing with my diagnosis would be gratefully received.

 

Huge learning curve on these cars it appears, wish I was a bit more familiar

 

Thank you in advance for all remarks and advice

 

Regards

 

Marc

Thanks for the replies, just got in after a disastrous day, the garages diagnosis of a pinhole in the radiator (just make sure you keep it topped up until you get the rad for us to fit) has turned out to be what I assume is a water pump failure, I say this as I am no expert but the temp gauge started going over the halfway mark and when I pulled over and opened the bonnet there was coolant coming from the front of the engine under the cover for the cam belt and going all over the cast housing that the two Radiator hoses connect to this is probably not the best description but any ideas confirming or disagreeing with my diagnosis would be gratefully received.

 

Huge learning curve on these cars it appears, wish I was a bit more familiar

 

Thank you in advance for all remarks and advice

 

Regards

 

Marc

Perhaps just the seal for the front water pipes is making coolant gush out when pressurised

Perhaps just the seal for the front water pipes is making coolant gush out when pressurised

Interesting thought, is that scenario possible with out the engine running ? with engine off if you keep putting water in the rad then after about 2 litres is put in it starts flooding out, it looks as if its coming from the bottom pulley but I am guessing its coming from above that pulley and running past it, as I cant get any water to stay in the car I am reluctant to try and start it and cause more damage

Interesting thought, is that scenario possible with out the engine running ? with engine off if you keep putting water in the rad then after about 2 litres is put in it starts flooding out, it looks as if its coming from the bottom pulley but I am guessing its coming from above that pulley and running past it, as I cant get any water to stay in the car I am reluctant to try and start it and cause more damage

Do you own a compressor? You could wrap a rag round the blower and use it to pressurise the coolant system. Wherever the leak it will soon become apparent. Obviously be careful not to over do it. Safer than running it though. If it leaks at idle you’ve got a big leak. Common places to leak at the front there are;

Radiator pipe connections. They’re plastic and crack off.

Behind the two aluminium water pipes, both the rubber hoses there can split and the stubby metal ones bolted to the block rust.

It’s probably quite easy to sort if your familiar with these cars. The getting hot thing is probably a lack of coolant or an air lock. Once you’ve fixed it and filled it you will need to bleed the coolant system of air.

Do you own a compressor? You could wrap a rag round the blower and use it to pressurise the coolant system. Wherever the leak it will soon become apparent. Obviously be careful not to over do it. Safer than running it though. If it leaks at idle you’ve got a big leak. Common places to leak at the front there are;

Radiator pipe connections. They’re plastic and crack off.

Behind the two aluminium water pipes, both the rubber hoses there can split and the stubby metal ones bolted to the block rust.

It’s probably quite easy to sort if your familiar with these cars. The getting hot thing is probably a lack of coolant or an air lock. Once you’ve fixed it and filled it you will need to bleed the coolant system of air.

Water pumps tend to leak when engine switched off, the two rubber by pass pipes above the water pump leak when running and pressurised if they need changing its not too bad a job, a couple of hours max if you have never done it before, water pump on the other hand is a cam belt job.

 

Jeff

Water pumps tend to leak when engine switched off, the two rubber by pass pipes above the water pump leak when running and pressurised if they need changing its not too bad a job, a couple of hours max if you have never done it before, water pump on the other hand is a cam belt job.

 

Jeff

Thanks for the reply's, when you say leak Jeff, its not a dribble when you fill the rad engine off once the water level can be seen in the Rad the the water floods out what looks like from behind the cam belt covers over the bottom pulley and onto the floor no pressure in the system at all would you guess Water Pump ?

Thanks for the reply's, when you say leak Jeff, its not a dribble when you fill the rad engine off once the water level can be seen in the Rad the the water floods out what looks like from behind the cam belt covers over the bottom pulley and onto the floor no pressure in the system at all would you guess Water Pump ?

Thanks for the reply's, when you say leak Jeff, its not a dribble when you fill the rad engine off once the water level can be seen in the Rad the the water floods out what looks like from behind the cam belt covers over the bottom pulley and onto the floor no pressure in the system at all would you guess Water Pump ?

 

If is that bad I would say one of the by pass hoses has burst open, they look like a sausage that burst in the pan when they go.

 

Jeff

Thanks for the reply's, when you say leak Jeff, its not a dribble when you fill the rad engine off once the water level can be seen in the Rad the the water floods out what looks like from behind the cam belt covers over the bottom pulley and onto the floor no pressure in the system at all would you guess Water Pump ?

 

If is that bad I would say one of the by pass hoses has burst open, they look like a sausage that burst in the pan when they go.

 

Jeff

Hi Jeff

 

Presumably I will need to remove the two cam covers, but will I be able to see the bypass hoses with covers removed or will I need to take the cast bits that the radiator hoses attach to off to be able to see ? i'm no mechanic but necessity means I will have a go

 

Thanks again for all the advice everyone

Hi Jeff

 

Presumably I will need to remove the two cam covers, but will I be able to see the bypass hoses with covers removed or will I need to take the cast bits that the radiator hoses attach to off to be able to see ? i'm no mechanic but necessity means I will have a go

 

Thanks again for all the advice everyone

Hi Jeff

 

Presumably I will need to remove the two cam covers, but will I be able to see the bypass hoses with covers removed or will I need to take the cast bits that the radiator hoses attach to off to be able to see ? i'm no mechanic but necessity means I will have a go

 

Thanks again for all the advice everyone

 

 

 

No need to remove left hand cover cam covers, the right hand one would help a lot, but not really needed and saves messing with PTU etc. Assuming it is the inlet hoses that have the problem, remove radiator cowl or rad if you wish but again not required. Remove water pipes to alloy pipes, unclip wiring loom, remove fan blade ( just the blade ( 4 x 10 mm bolts).

 

Now you have a good view access to look at the rubber pipes, if split then you need a long hex drive 5.5 mm maybe 6mm ( from memory )and a 12 mm socket on an extension to undo the fixings for the alloy pipes the lower one first to give more access to the pipe clips, release the hose clips with long nose pliar`s and pull the alloy pipes out.

 

Now the remainder clips can be removed and the two water pipes cut off as they tend to stick onto the steel outlet pipes from the block. Clean and fit new rubber pipes (with a smear of silicon sealant ) , fit rear clips in the correct position and fit the front clips with the tabs facing down but push them back, refit the cleaned alloy pipes ( with a smear of silicon sealant ) and do up all of the fixings, NOW pull the front clips into position. and assemble everything in reverse order.

 

When refilling the system always have to heater on max heat and the fan on at least low speed and econ activated, this just opens the matrix valves to aid air bleed, add the max amount and wait till it drops, once you can not get any more in start the engine and allow to warm, adding as required.

 

The rubber hoses are quiet expensive from Nissan so it is easier to buy a one meter length of 30mm pipe from your local factors and just cut to length, exactly the same thing.... just cheaper.

 

Pics from a belt service I did some time back in the workshop, they should give you a little insight in to what to expect, of course these are for cambelt and pump change so a lot more stripped out than you would need to.

 

Have fun

 

Jeff

 

 

 

 

Edited June 17, 20187 yr by JeffTT

Thanks for the instructions Jeff, 1t almost looks like I stand a chance of doing that, would it be ok to use silicone hoses for this job & also any recommendations for the correct coolant to use, I also assume I would be ill advised not to change the thermostat at the same time and I will probably run the garden hose through the block while its apart.

 

I will update on how I get on would be nice to get it running again as its in the way where it is.

 

Thanks again will keep you posted

 

Best Regards

 

Marc