Right, thought I'd start this. As some of you may know my cars a bit broken at present and I have a pile of parts ready to fit that gets bigger without it making its way to the car.

 

So lets start with what's up with the engine. Myself and gaz pulled the engine about two winters ago now, as one of the turbo's had failed. Compression was tested at this time with a very even 170psi across the board. Pulling it all apart we found a multitude of issues, egr hanging off causing an exhaust leak old sockets rolling about etc etc. We took that time to replace every damn crusty water and vac pipe and delete just about anything I considered a waste of space.

Water plenum bypass,

EGR,

AIV,

PRV,

Cruise control,

Aircon,

Think that's all. The turbos were rebuild by myself and for the first 50-100 miles things were bob on and I didn't give it too much stick. The first couple of pulls it detonated, new plugs, reduced the issue but it still did it a bit. Changed to a smaller gap and great the det was gone. The car was pulling very well at this point with virtually no lag and was dyno'd at 289hp bone stock, no extra boost no chip. Not bad for an old auto engine. Sadly it had started to smoke on over run, I assumed id cocked up one of the turbos during the rebuild. So I had been putting it off for months, well actually years now to pay out for brand new turbos. Anyways as the tax ran out I thought id do some more inspecting as the symptoms just didn't fit the pattern of failed turbos. The first thing I found was that lovely even compression was no more, cyl had a rather lame 115psi. Cue further inspection to work out exactly what block I had, manual/auto etc I assumed it was auto. That's when I found this...

That head casting reads R-10Y, wtf is that I thought. It's supposed to read 40P this was one of those penny drop moments. The piston crown sealed that moment of realisation and many dots connected.

That's right its an NA, 30p pistons are NA and 30p1 are TT defiantly no 1 on that code. Turns out r-10y is the later spec NA head aswell, so yeas 100% an NA block. Now this engine was fitted by a garage 4 years ago a few months into my ownership and we wont go into that too much but it wasn't a great experience and it transpires it was worse than I first thought. Anyway whilst they refused to reimburse me for that error, a good will gesture was sent out to me in the post of a few quid.

So a replacement engine is going to be sourced and fitted this winter. More of that and what's happening to the current late spec NA block.

 

So now more about that shelf of parts. I purchased last winter a full rear subframe assembly off Jaffa, the one off his time attack car. Loads of goodies already polybushed to death etc. So I stripped it down to bare metal and started painting it all with a few coats of lovely hammerite. This is how it stands at present;

So this winters aims are.

Remove front and rear bumpers, re underseal all of that and rip out and guff.

Delete HICAS system

Reloacte PS reservoir and fusebox

Switch over all suspension to new units from the shelf

Fit 354mm diameter brembos

Change engine out and preform various mods

It sounds like a lot, but hey winter is along time. Don't expect it to be coming through thick and fast. Im lazy haha

I looked at it and thought, that's been hacked about. Then looked again at the fixings and Velcro parts. It's quite a comprehensive hack, kinda sock looking.

As for the rubber flap, bear with me a minute whilst I have a think...

 

Well as no one seems to know or cares to comment, I did some googling and it would appear this flap thing is factory.

So after some fannying about over these intercooler ducts (which has prevented me refitting the front bumper) based on the factory rubber portion, I finally said to hell with it and took a hack saw to the stock ducts. After all you won't ever see them other than with the bumper off, function trumps form here. The lower portion is fitted, and I've got to knock up some brackets to bolt the top half down. So once I've finished them il pop up a picture.

 

As well all do there's been something annoying me and that's the chassis rails and front floor pan. I'd done some work on them last year but tbh it was rushed, a secondary item of lower importance. So today I removed what needed removing, including all that plastic tray over the lines, exhaust etc and masked up the gear box etc ready for some of this Upol Gravitex which comes highly recommended. These come in 1L bottles ready to be shot out my newly acquired Cavity Wax and Shultz gun. Not only will this make the aforementioned application 800xs easier (no exaggeration of corse) it will also allow me to drench the box sections mentioned previously. Il do this in high summer so the airs dry and use more of the Dynax S50 from

 

The other iron in the fire is my rear BBK conversion. This is formed from some 350mm rotors off a 370z which will retain the handbrake function, mated with some Evo VII rear Brembo calipers. Bias should be better than stock with these. Big is an understatement and I'm a little concerned about clearing the rear 18" wheels.

 

Winter works, time for a thread name change...

So after some fannying about over these intercooler ducts (which has prevented me refitting the front bumper) based on the factory rubber portion, I finally said to hell with it and took a hack saw to the stock ducts. After all you won't ever see them other than with the bumper off, function trumps form here. The lower portion is fitted, and I've got to knock up some brackets to bolt the top half down. So once I've finished them il pop up a picture.

 

As well all do there's been something annoying me and that's the chassis rails and front floor pan. I'd done some work on them last year but tbh it was rushed, a secondary item of lower importance. So today I removed what needed removing, including all that plastic tray over the lines, exhaust etc and masked up the gear box etc ready for some of this Upol Gravitex which comes highly recommended. These come in 1L bottles ready to be shot out my newly acquired Cavity Wax and Shultz gun. Not only will this make the aforementioned application 800xs easier (no exaggeration of corse) it will also allow me to drench the box sections mentioned previously. Il do this in high summer so the airs dry and use more of the Dynax S50 from [ATTACH=CONFIG]105079[/ATTACH]

 

The other iron in the fire is my rear BBK conversion. This is formed from some 350mm rotors off a 370z which will retain the handbrake function, mated with some Evo VII rear Brembo calipers. Bias should be better than stock with these. Big is an understatement and I'm a little concerned about clearing the rear 18" wheels. [ATTACH=CONFIG]105080[/ATTACH]

 

Winter works, time for a thread name change...

 

You shouldn't have too much of a fitment problem Stephen, I'm running 4 piston Brembos with 370z 350mm discs and I have a few mills clear:thumbup1:

Ta Dah

Ta Dah

[ATTACH=CONFIG]105297[/ATTACH]

 

Where are you getting the brackets from matey ?

Combination of my brain and another member who has brought a kit, I'm not copying completely as I don't want to use an aspect of it. Lots of fiddling about yet to come.

This weekend I've been a bit snowed in with domestic duties. A certain small person was content wacking (because we're still learning grab) a small blue elephant today though allow me and the boss to get some vital garden stuff done. I have squeezed in 10 minutes here and there though on car stuff and after test fitting the rear discs and some measurements and drawings I should be able to knock up my bracket template. So that's all positive.

On the negative I did notice some corrosion up on the rear bumper to body join. So that's something for next year. I did get a bit flustered by this, the dread of fabricating that patch on that curve and subsequent paint work. Although having looked properly it appears there's a bracket in the underside of the bumper that sandwiches the urethane? Like the front. I did look for an exploded picture but no joy, just a thread from MarkDerby asking how the bumper comes off.

So I found the answer to my question, took about an hour... it appears I was right and il be wanting these brackets when I get to this part.

 

Had a title change and a tidy up. Hope it makes things easier to follow and I'm going to use this as a rolling thing instead of separate winter threads that become spring rushes.

So I finally found a configuration that worked for the brake bracket. Just got to have a quick chat with one or two people smarter than myself about the design and any short comings but I'm pretty happy with it.

My first Prototype version failed, the hole centres where good but there was excessive interference between the caliper and hub. I'd created this in attempt to prevent the caliper facing down and looking goofy. This is all to be expected I spose and what happens when you transfer paper to reality with not much room to play with. A quick rehash realigned the angle between the two sets of mounting points and allowed me to add more material to one of the tighter mounts, win all round and version 3.1 was born on paper. Transfer of the design to a wooden prototype allowed me to mock up design and thankfully it all fits. Here's a pic of the caliper mounted to the disc at last.

So as I say, so box ticking to do then production. Then just the tiny secondary issue of getting the brake line to fit and the wheel to go over it all because currently it fouls...:whistling:

Nice work Stephen:thumbup1:

Looking great mate. :thumbup1:

What lovely big brakes you have sir, said the little old lady.

Just trying to make my mind up wether to pull the trigger on 15 or 20mm spacers for the rear, I needed a minimum of 10 for the fitment I wanted and the clear the brakes, however I currently have a camber of 0 believe. Think the 20s would require a slight flare as my arches are already rolled.

I had the alignment done a spring or two back but didn't correct the Caster as they couldn't do it and it turns out they set it up as a Z31 :taz:

 

Edited April 28, 20178 yr by Stephen

Just double checking myself as I'm sure I'm binding on the FUCA tonits mount. Have I cocked the instal up on these? I know there's a set way to fit them (which I can't find) I'm sure I researched it but you know...

This morning I switched the front brake pads out for some Evo OEM Brembo ones, so that's matching pads and discs all round now.

 

Investigated this upper camber arm issue. It appears that the arm indeed has been catching the mount, you can see the witness marks.

The arms themselves are longer one end creating a natural larger clearance one end. So I swapped them round, this created about 3" extra travel. Not sure how I missed this on install but far happier now.

I pulled the struts to allow me to move the corner freely and left them out as I've got some lower rated springs to switch in.

 

Intercooler ducting is now complete.

 

Slipped some 15mm spacers on the back which gave me that much needed clearance to fit the wheels over the caliper. The end is though I need new wheels, lighter, wider and a better offset.

 

Slow progress but we are moving forward.

Investigated this upper camber arm issue. It appears that the arm indeed has been catching the mount, you can see the witness marks.

The arms themselves are longer one end creating a natural larger clearance one end. So I swapped them round, this created about 3" extra travel.

 

I take it that the problem and solution is the same one as described here?

 

https://www.powertrix.com/z32/z32-suspension/z32-adjustable/z32adjcam

I take it that the problem and solution is the same one as described here?

 

https://www.powertrix.com/z32/z32-suspension/z32-adjustable/z32adjcam

 

Yup, that's the one. Oh well I figured it out myself in the end. :lol: hopefully this reduce the crashing on the front end, rear was always good.

A selection of springs arrived today with a pair rated at 8kg/mm and 6kg/mm, these should be a bit softer. If there not the 6kg ones will go up front and I can switch in some 4kg ones to the rear. Exciting stuff :tt2: anyway a photo for those interested in some springs :lol:

Edited May 10, 20178 yr by Stephen

Dont bother fitting the 8kg ones just buy a pair of 4s and go 6/4. Your car will ride lovely like that and will handle better/ corner quicker without jumping and axle hopping everywhere. If you venture on track just click up the Meisters to about 2/3 max.

Job done.....:thumbup1:

Smooth fast sure footed road car and competent on track IF you ever get out there.:whistling:

All of course IMHO.... but based on experience!!!

I agree with Pete, I have 6/4 Meisters, very streetable, no skipping, comfortable and puts the power down nicely on the road. I would recommend pairing them up with uprated ARBs if you haven't already. I have my Stillens set to max hard to counteract the body roll of the softer suspension.

 

The whole setup means it corners flat, but doesn't feel like it wants to remove my fillings! If you ever do put the car on a track, you can dial up the damping as Pete suggested and it will stiffen up nicely for some fun laps.

Cheers for the feed back guys, their older units not Meister, with no adjustment on damper. I've got the Stillen ARB which are set soft F medium R at present. But as you say Pete I can feel the spring rate being too high is making the car slower in real life situations, I'm sure on a smooth as glass track it would be fine and tbh once I'm out of the little roads it's ok. The little cracked, potholed, repaired and lorry tutted etc roads it skips like well skippy.

The current rate is unknown, but looking at the thickness of the spring and its length and the feel of the ride I'd say high. I did find some math to calculate it but haven't got round to it, gonna take me a few minutes to do these sums. :whack:

Spring Rate = GD^4/8ND^3

 

G=Torsional Modulus for Steel = 11.25x10^6

 

D=Wire Diameter in Inches

 

N=Number of Active Coils

 

D=Mean Coil Diameter in Inches

 

8=A Constant for all Coil Springs

 

Also not to be forgotten was my upper arm faux par, how much of the big bumps were actually contact on that arm and mount...hard to say, but there was a definite clunk at times.

So I finally found a configuration that worked for the brake bracket. Just got to have a quick chat with one or two people smarter than myself about the design and any short comings but I'm pretty happy with it.

My first Prototype version failed, the hole centres where good but there was excessive interference between the caliper and hub. I'd created this in attempt to prevent the caliper facing down and looking goofy. This is all to be expected I spose and what happens when you transfer paper to reality with not much room to play with. A quick rehash realigned the angle between the two sets of mounting points and allowed me to add more material to one of the tighter mounts, win all round and version 3.1 was born on paper. Transfer of the design to a wooden prototype allowed me to mock up design and thankfully it all fits. Here's a pic of the caliper mounted to the disc at last. [ATTACH=CONFIG]105777[/ATTACH]

So as I say, so box ticking to do then production. Then just the tiny secondary issue of getting the brake line to fit and the wheel to go over it all because currently it fouls...:whistling:

 

Stephen, can I ping you a message about your rear brake setup? You on FB?