The rebuild has finally started today and so far in a few hours I've managed to completely strip the interior.

 

 

 

Next job on my list is to get both the bumpers, tailgate and bonnet off.

 

After that i'll work on the body panels and stripping down the engine.

No, lol, going to try avoid them.

 

Now don't go leaving it on the hard shoulder. :tongue_smilie:

Still too soon?

Engine rebuild has begun.

 

Managed to rebuild the bottom end then I noticed I had no gasket sealer to but the sump on.

 

Engine rebuild has begun.

 

Managed to rebuild the bottom end then I noticed I had no gasket sealer to but the sump on.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]108336[/ATTACH]

 

They do sell the proper loctite stuff in Halfords, if that helps.

Sump now on secured with new bolts and top water pipe reattached.

 

Next job tonight is to fit the top blocks and cams.

 

 

Back on my engine build again and the lower intake plenum was fitted after putting it in the blasting cabinet

 

 

Then the two small front water pipes were fitted aswell as a new water pump and pulleys.

 

The cams are fitted but before I go any further can somebody sense check the position of them ?

 

The lower crank is aligned with the dot on the sprocket and the notch prior to fitting the top blocks.

 

I do have a manual but its not to clear what the positioning should be.

 

 

 

What a day.

 

Big issues with my cam shafts that once assembled they would barley move :(

 

Not sure what's up but when one of the cams is seated in its slot you can easily rock it left to right with it pivoting in the middle.

 

Not sure if my cam shafts are bent or the heads have somehow warped.

 

Anyways I built the full thing up and it looked great until I attempted to spin them just a little to see if they were free and lubricated enough.

 

After a few hours pulling it apart and rebuilding it I just gave up.

 

decided to move onto other places and went into my works yard to use the blasting cabinet.

 

Cleaned up oil tree, both the engine stand brackets and the manifolds.

On to better shiny things I decided to work on the turbos.

 

Fully rebuilt turbo's by midland turbo's, new return oil pipes and i'm thinking about buying new water feeds too.

 

 

 

Did you apply lubricant to the cams prior to assembly?

Yes,

 

How freely are they supposed to move, ie move by hand or with the spanner method.

 

They just seem very tight, I think I may have mixed the brackets up, they were numbered but

Had to move everything from my works yard to my own garage.

 

If this was the case how to I measure and fix that?

Did you apply lubricant to the cams prior to assembly?

They are spring loaded via the valves, so quite stiff at tdc and then I found they sprung about 90 degrees if you weren't careful.

 

They should be able to be spun by hand however

Yeh,

 

You should be able to move them a few mm free hand before you need pressure to move the lifters.

 

maybe i'm tightening the brackets up to tight, as I don't have a 1/4" torque wrench that goes down to the levels needed.

 

They are spring loaded via the valves, so quite stiff at tdc and then I found they sprung about 90 degrees if you weren't careful.

 

They should be able to be spun by hand however

Yeh,

 

You should be able to move them a few mm free hand before you need pressure to move the lifters.

 

maybe i'm tightening the brackets up to tight, as I don't have a 1/4" torque wrench that goes down to the levels needed.

 

Do you mean the caps Lee?...get the back plates fitted 1st and put the pullys on the cams as its these components that have the timing marks. Number 1 cylinder at TDC and fit the cams with the relevant timing marks dialed in. Its not good practice to swap around the caps from a strip down but as long as you have them facing the correct way its ok...Its also a 3/8 torque wrench you need not a 1/4" but you must be very carefull as those bolts dont take much to pull the threads up...Apart from head bolts i never use a Torque wrench on builds as i like to "feel" the fastener as its getting nailed up.

btw...you have the correct cams in the correct place dont you?..just asking as its not the 1st time someone has tried that old chestnut (not me btw):clown:

Started again, took everything off; bought myself a torque wrench and done all the bolts to spec.

 

Timing belt also now on and I can rotate the full thing with any knocking noises.

 

However it's very hard to turn so can anybody tell me how easy or hard it should be to manually crank the engine?

First time doing a timing belt, also new tensioner and all new pulleys.

 

Test fitted the new painted cam covers and belt covers too.

 

It's looking fantastic Lee, unfortunately I cannot advise on the engine work, I'm not engine proficient, I've given mine to Jimmer.

I really do admire your "can do" attitude buddy, it looks awesome :thumbup:

How hard is very hard to turn?

 

Did you torque down the main bearings and rods without a torque wrench???

With no compression as injectors out should be really easy with a socket and ratchet, you did re-use the lower bearing carrier that came with the engine ?

 

Not related but did you fit the shim spacer behind the crank sprocket, cannot tell.

 

Jeff

Everything was torqued down to specification in the manual using a torque wrench.

 

How hard is very hard to turn?

 

Did you torque down the main bearings and rods without a torque wrench???

Lower shim is fitted but it is hard to see in the pictures.

 

I think i'm going to split the block and start again.

 

Something doesn't feel right and there is no point on continuing the build until i'm sure.

 

 

With no compression as injectors out should be really easy with a socket and ratchet, you did re-use the lower bearing carrier that came with the engine ?

 

Not related but did you fit the shim spacer behind the crank sprocket, cannot tell.

 

Jeff

Before I start again i'll see if I can take a video this morning

However it's very hard to turn so can anybody tell me how easy or hard it should be to manually crank the engine?

 

Are the spark plugs in or out?

Lower shim is fitted but it is hard to see in the pictures.

 

I think i'm going to split the block and start again.

 

Something doesn't feel right and there is no point on continuing the build until i'm sure.

 

Just the sump in the first instance, should be able to see what`s going on from there, you have the best idea to stop and check.

 

Jeff