As above. Even though the car has had an alignment the wheel is not central in the arch. That's kind of miss leading, what I mean is both rear wheels aren't equally distant from the fore and aft of the arch. There's about a 5mm discrepancy with the passenger side sitting slightly further back, visually at least. Ideas?

Different Tyre sizes, Different suspension parts, hubcentric spacers worn, worst case misalignment from a rear end shunt repair?

Everything is fresh back there.

hubcentric spacers worn?

 

:rofl: :lol:

Different Tyre sizes, Different suspension parts, spigot worn, hubcentric spacers worn, worst case misalignment from a rear end shunt repair?

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

 

No. None of that is an issue. It's all present correct and straight.

I'm thinking the rear caster is out on that wheel. As this wasn't adjusted on the alignment.

Take the wheel off and measure from the hub nut to the sill on both sides, that'll give you a definitive answer. If it is off, as you've said, castor will be out

Take the wheel off and measure from the hub nut to the sill on both sides, that'll give you a definitive answer. If it is off, as you've said, castor will be out

 

Does that not cause an issue as obviously camber will change with the wheel off when the cars in the air. Should the caster be unchanged throughout the travel?

As above. Even though the car has had an alignment the wheel is not central in the arch. That's kind of miss leading, what I mean is both rear wheels aren't equally distant from the fore and aft of the arch. There's about a 5mm discrepancy with the passenger side sitting slightly further back, visually at least. Ideas?

 

Worn subframe bushes.

Worn subframe bushes.

 

Nearly new and there solid aluminium units.

Does that not cause an issue as obviously camber will change with the wheel off when the cars in the air. Should the caster be unchanged throughout the travel?

 

If your comparing sides of the car, it's relative. If you have a difference with wheels off and suspension is unloaded, that difference will still be there when it's sitting on the ground, and in theory, viva versa.

Nearly new and there solid aluminium units.

 

Worn subframe bushes.

 

That's a good point Andrew. I recently came across something that one of the guys in the US has used on his car to ensure subframe alignment stays true. Made by Spoon Racing and available for the 300zx

 

If your comparing sides of the car, it's relative. If you have a difference with wheels off and suspension is unloaded, that difference will still be there when it's sitting on the ground, and in theory, viva versa.

 

I spose your right. I suppose the most accurate and proactive thing to do would be to get the caster measured and adjusted if required. At least that can be conclusively ruled out either way.

That's a good point Andrew. I recently came across something that one of the guys in the US has used on his car to ensure subframe alignment stays true. Made by Spoon Racing and available for the 300zx

 

Interesting stuff. Although it does seem to apply to production cars with solid bushes which ours don't at the rear. Be interesting to find out what tolerance there is between the stud and the solid bush.

Where are your measurement points?

Where are your measurement points?

 

Sorry could you rephrase that?

The points (A to B if you will) you are taking your measurements from.

Swage to wheel edge. Il have to re-measure, it was a few weeks back. The main issue, or rather what brought it to my attention was the gap from the tyre sidewall to the rear bumper tab. I want to increase the rear track and can't at present because it would likely kiss the tab on the passenger side, the drivers side is spacious.

i went down this road when i was trying to find out why car was pulling to one side, measure from the center of the front hub to the center of the rear hubs do both side takes a few goes to get rite you need mate to help you. all so do you have rear caster ajustment if so there is your issue only take like half a turn to mate the wheel move 5 mill. i still have the oem caster witch it fixed

Banana car, bent and twisted, write-off Cat B, nadgered, wrecked, part out?

i went down this road when i was trying to find out why car was pulling to one side, measure from the center of the front hub to the center of the rear hubs do both side takes a few goes to get rite you need mate to help you. all so do you have rear caster ajustment if so there is your issue only take like half a turn to mate the wheel move 5 mill. i still have the oem caster witch it fixed

 

I think this is most likely as I have tow and caster adjustment available on mine. It's probably just never been set up properly on that parameter. Tow has been corrected but caster was neither measured nor adjusted.

I think this is most likely as I have tow and caster adjustment available on mine. It's probably just never been set up properly on that parameter. Tow has been corrected but caster was neither measured nor adjusted.

 

i have toe and camber on the rear i spent month messing with stuff back and forth from aligments out with the tape time and time again changing part spent a few hundred on this issue. if you have fitted the rear ajustment caster arm you will find that just a little turn or so changes the caster lots

 

It's not banana'd :lol:

Sounds like you've got it now but surely it has to be the caster! Having the alignment done is fairly pointless without it being done I would imagine, will adjusting it not change all the other measurements? Why wasn't it checked out of interest?